Will be editing and changing this picture trough the day, Getting ready for dialysis at the pumpity pump house so will go through the post and refine in the morning

In your quest to become a Jaguar problem solver we are going on a trip few have gone before . Que the music

Since the starter was not restored lets focus on that .

And here is your inspiration , she wants you to fix her car




This is your Wiring guide for the 96 and your wire colors are on page 16 with the prints concerned are on page 45 and Z

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1996.pdf

The myth is about the Jaguar electronics when the reality is they follow the same physics of any other car just the details are different . With the details of what is inside the box as a unknown you have to deduce from what goes on outside the box to what is going on inside . This happens alot .

Not everyone is comfortable with a meter as I was not until practice and some tips but in the mean time a friend may assist you If we generate a picture gram of the most important 2 or so wires to check , This males it less daunting to ask " Dude , can you help me fix my Jag so she graces the roads that other cars simply roll on "

The 2 wires we are going to focus on are the power wires to the SLCU and the BPM

Fuse # 5 / 10 amp ( red ) trunk box to FC3 - 1 for the BPM marked in red

Fuse # 4 / 10 amp ( red ) trunk fuse box to CA21 - 12 for the SLCU marked in green

Important : We'll look at your BPM transit isolation device on FC - 13 marked as purple


The key chip reader was never installed in your US vehicle , but you never know and could interfere .

The reader location is unknown to me

Get a different fuse from a different manufacturer as cheap counterfeit fuses can limit the power and not even blow at there target

and the 1 communication wire in between CA21 - 10 to FC2 - 5 marked in blue

We'll develop a easier picture to see picture later in the day

The CA21 connector is on the top position of the SLCU as it's mounded in the car different then in the wiring guide picture , will double check .



Your BPM communicates with your engine ECU at the black connector pin 20 marked in brown and the condition of this connector can have an effect






Will be editing and changing this picture trough the day, Getting ready for dialysis at the pumpity pump house so will go through the post and refine in the morning .

 

Hi Lady P.
Thank you so much for your hard work in putting this all together. I have to admit, after looking at these diagrams, I am completely lost! I will have to get a meter for one thing and learn how to use it. Then find a way to download the X300 Service Manuals
recommended by Richard.. Have not had any luck downloading the files to this point! Can't explain why. Once I do get the files then the learning process really begins. I have never done anything electrical and do not have a clue. In the meantime, I am
going to check the relays that I can locate. One more note Lady P., I did the overnight hard reset as you recommended. Unfortunately, I didn't notice any change.
Once again, thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it.
Bob

 

The top brand Fluke meter people have a good video and PDF on it's usage and is a good base for any meter like the $ 5 dollar ones at the auto parts store

Looking for video and pdf : There are better ones

Still looking for them

Grab a friend and cut through the learning curve

The library can help with the downloading to a flash drive or disk to take up to the office supply store to print off on a large sheet

Keep asking questions

 

Back again. Sorry, I got side-tracked with another surprise. Have a part located on top of the engine, drivers side that needs replacing. Can't identify it by name! Also, can't seem to find a way to upload a picture to this site!
It looks something like a rubber bladder or bulb attached to a moveable linkage on one side and a thin hose coming off the back of its solid round base. It looks as if it might be a vacuum related part but I don't know. In any
event, the rubber bladder or bulb has a gaping hole on top. I tried an internet search for vacuum related engine parts and just Jaguar parts in general. No luck to this point. This has to be something that is simple and common.
Can anyone offer any suggestions as to how to identify it?

 

That is the cruze control

 

Thank you. Appreciate the help.

 

Hi Lady P.
Trying to understand the diagrams. Is the "CA21 / 26-WAY / SLATE" the part that plugs into the "FC2 / 48WAY / BLACK (LHD) ?
I assume I am supposed to be checking the flow of current between these two points. What am I trying to read on this multimeter?

 

I'm going to suggest a slightly different tack on this issue.

The starter circuit is quite complex as demonstrated by Lady P's diagrams. Your issue is that the starter circuit isn't working but also that other BPM functions are not working (lights, Wipers etc.). I suspect that whatever the root cause is, when it's fixed all of the circuits will spring back to life. Therefore focus on something with less variables - like the wipers.

So here is what I would test. Firstly, let's confirm that the BPM is getting a signal to turn on the wipers but is not outputting the signal to make that happen. We'll start from the back and work forward. Here are three simplified diagrams you will need to refer to with the description below.








1. At the Wiper Relay, test the voltage on Pin 1 with the wipers turned off and then turned on. When off you should see B+ voltage (that means whatever the battery is putting out (around 12v +/- 2). When Wipers turned on you should see ground (i.e 0 volts )
2. Assuming that you don't get the above results, repeat the test at the BPM output (PIN FC1-27). Target results are as above. Likely results will be the same.
3. Assuming the above two tests failed, now check the input signal. This is at the BPM PIN FC2-47. With wipers off you should see B+, with wipers on you should see ground (0 v)

Pointers
- Set multimeter to read Volts (DC)
- Connect black lead to a good known ground (e.g. an exposed metal part of the engine or body)
- Connect Red lead to the test point (connect to a good known B+ before the tests to confirm the meter is working OK (e.g. battery + post))
- On the tests "Back Probe" the connectors. This means do not unplug them. Insert the probe in to the back of the connector at the appropriate place. You will likely need either special needle probes or just a sewing needle inserted in to the connector and then test against that.

Try this and let us know what you find. Hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs.

(Suggest that you remove any splices/workarounds that are in place before the tests)

 

BobGalvin .,

Cjeck to see if you are receiving my Private Mail on this site page

Private Mail me back to let me know .

 

Trying to post something but my computer is wobbly

This is an example of the mirror image of a connector " map " as you remove the connector and look at in it your hand .

This is what you will be doing in your example of BPM troubleshooting .

This is a point where many people throw up there hands but is easy to get past .

In this example you have 2 heavy thick black wires in the corner of the connector

Take a bread wrapper twisty and place it on these reference wires so when you are looking at it you always have a easy reference to know where you are at and not have to figure it out over again .

in this ABS example we are using the # 13 and # 14 pin corner but is better to use the # 1 pin in most practices


So in your example of the FC2 connector on the BPM ,......drawing

 

Hi Brendan;
Checked out the meter as directed. Seemed to work fine, Reading was 12.79 volts. Located the Wiper on/off relay. Could not remove it !
They seem to be locked in place, unlike other relays that simply unplug. This may not be the case but I haven't been able to dislodge it.
Then I read your notes again, wondering if I am not supposed to take it out to check the # 1 pin , but rather Back Probe the relay as well.
I can't see how that is possible. It would be if checking from the top sides of the relay if those holes allow a connection and if so,
how do you identify them? In any event, I am stuck at that point.
Bob

 

The plastic shell of the large relays get stuck and can be freed up with some penetrate spray like PB Blaster , A dry rag can grip them .

Not a bad idea to get them all for in service reliability as well as spray the sockets with a thicker oil

Let me finish the above pic of the FC1 , 2 , and 3 connector

 

As Lady P says, the relays will come out but need a bit more effort than "normal" relays. I find that a 30 thou feeler gauge or a small blade screwdriver down the sides between the relay and the socket rocking left/right/up/down helps to release them (and as Lady P says some lubricant will also help). Backprobing is important on the module but not an issue for the relay (in this case) so easier if you can remove it from the housing.

For info the relay looks like this when removed so make sure you are pulling at the right place. The pin numbers are stamped on the relay beside the pins.

 

Hello Brendan;
Thanks so much for your suggestions. I really appreciate the help.
At this point, I have removed the splice. Removed the Wiper On/Off Relay. Tested it at pin 1 location. Did not get a voltage reading with the wiper
in the off position nor in the on position. The meter just showed random info as it does when it is first turned on.
Repeated this process at the BPM output (PIN FC1-27) using the sewing needle approach as recommended. Same results
Then on to the BPM input signal at the FC2-47 position. Reading with the wiper in the off position, 11.22 volts. Reading in the on position, 11.22 volts !!!!!
Obviously, I have done something wrong since we shouldn't be getting a positive reading in the on position. Now, I did reinsert the wiper on/off relay prior to
testing the FC1-27 and the FC2-47. Was this wrong?

 

Hi Bob

Hmm... That's interesting. Just for more information..
- did you have the ignition turned on for the tests? I should have been clear that it should be
- did you verify that you had the correct pin on the BPM tests by the wire colour
FC1-27 Yellow Purple
FC2-47 Light Green Red

The relay being back in place for your tests is not a problem.

Assuming the above does not change anything then there are a few more tests you can try which will help provide more information

- Try the same Test 3 (i.e. on the Input side of BPM) on Pin FC2-14 (washers) with the washers off and on (you'll probably need an assistant for this)
- Test the voltage at PIN FC2-31 (Ignition switched ground) with ignition OFF and ignition ON
- Try grounding PIN FC2-47 (Wipers). What I mean by that is get a length of wire, attach to a good ground at one end and then touch the other end against you sewing needle when it's in Pin FC2-47. Do the wipers operate?

 

Lets look at the health of the power on the 5 points on the car as a foundation other then on how it is manipulated for it's use ( wipers )

This test does mot require key on .

Place your meter on the large battery cables going into each 5 fuse boxes . no removal of cable required .








The voltage should be the same as your battery terminal ( minus some drainage since last battery charge charged )

If the voltages are not the same , no big deal as is common

Now do the sane test with the car at running idle . Turn on the headlights , cabin heater and X

You will have a different set of numbers like the one point battery terminal will read around 13.5 volts .

Now read the 5 fuse box terminal post and record .

Now the tricky point , with the car still running turn the BPM around with all the connectors still connected . Take a sewing needle from the dolor store and place in the backside of the small 6 pin connector . You are looking at it from a module view so you are looking at the top left # 1 position as the Brown / Black wire . You should see the same volts as the battery terminal post .

This verifies the PM gets the proper volts to run correctly

Depending on your results will get into detail , TMI for now .



iting

 

Ok. That's part of the problem. Did not have ignition key in the on position. Does it need to be in the on position when I remove the Wiper On/Off relay as well?
Will have to check the wire colors as well. I am assuming that the wire colors you stated are multicolored, not either/or. Will check that out now, but I believe these
are solid colors. Back in a minute.

 

On the wiper relay test with the ignition and wiper switch on you should feel it click as you remove and reinstall the relay . This verifies the BPM gives the commanded ground path to control it

There are 2 wiper relays so be on the proper one

Up at 4 am for dialysis

 

Ok. Checked the wire colors. The FC2-47 is correct (light green red)
The FC1-27 is wrong. In this unit it is green, not yellow purple! Will check them again in the morning when I have more light and more room
to move around in there.

 

Sometimes at the factory they run out of a certain color of wire and substitute a different color . No use holding up production . On airlines it is %100 compliant or an engineering approval that you sign against but then we use a 8 number stamp machine on white wire . No 2 wires have the same number .

In this wiper relay example ......

FC1 - 24 is Red solid / Light Green stripe as a corner reference wire only

By rocking the relay and feeling it click verifies the commanding controlling ground is provided by the BPM . If not the relay can be swapped with the wiper fast / slow relay .

Verify the fuse is good at point 71 as LH engine fuse box fuse # 6 / 20 amp and RH fuse box # 16 / 10 amp as point 29

Note you must have both relays installed for the wiper to run

The # 1 fuse will always be the one closet to the terminal post on the fuse box .

Nap time after meds , one pill bottle has a wobbly car sticker on it .