Hi,
I don’t think I need to introduce the issue of a failing clock display, but I think I might have rediscovered an easier solution.

From what I can tell the standard solution most people do is to repair the clock with a t-bar soldering process. Companies like modulemasters (http://modulemaster.com/) will do it for you or you can order the parts from companies like akspeedo (http://www.akspeedo.com/jaguar-pixel-repair.php). Either way you are in about $100.

After multiple rounds of internet searches I stumbled upon a site mentioning a double sided z-axis tape from 3M (http://jimbutterworth.co.uk/8clock.htm) to repair the clock. This sparked my interest since it had struck me as odd that it was easy to remove the original ribbon by hand, but requires soldering to fix.

So, after being told by one of the sellers of replacement LCD screens that it required soldering, I ordered the screen and some 3M tape (https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/66235O/3m-electrically-conductive-adhesive-transfer-tape-9703.pdf).

It took me two tries to make it work, but I was ultimately successful. The new cable had some residue on it that was not easy to remove and apparently I did a poor job of it the first time. Contact cleaner ultimately did the job to prepare the surfaces. The tape itself is very simple to use (normal seeming thin double sided tape). I made sure to apply good pressure with my nail to help ensure the tape was working properly.

I know pictures would be good here, but really there isn’t much new to show. In total the tape and screen are cheaper and much easier to use than soldering it back together. Now we wait to see how long it lasts.

in summary:
- buy lcd and 3M 9703 tape
- disassemble clock
- remove old lcd screen and clean circuit board with contact cleaner
- clean new ribbon cable on new lcd screen with contact cleaner
- apply tape to circuit board and press firmly
- remove backing from tape and carefully align new ribbon to the circuit board
- press firmly at the connection point to ensure a good connection
- check function in car before reassembly


Daniel

 

Hi Daniel, good to hear that you managed a successful repair. Where did you get the tape?
I have been looking for small quantities of this tape for some time and I found it difficult to source here in the UK unless you want to buy a complete roll but the cost for a roll is prohibitive. There are a few ads on Amazon for smaller quantities but they show as currently unavailable and no indication as to when they are likely to be back in stock.

Thanks Paul

 

Meh, tape is a pain to apply right, a little piece of it cost more than a t-tip soldering bit and it doesn't last as well as heat bonding new cable(no need to ask me how I know ). Its not really soldering but heat bonding too, the t-tip soldering bit cost £5 and a 30W soldering iron cost under £10 so if you're capable of fixing the clock with that 3M tape, you're more than capable of heat bonding new cable, as it was designed for

 

Paul, here is what I bought:
Daniel

 

Just a quick checkin, that clock is still working perfectly. I changed to white LED's in the clock and the temperature control. The rest of the lights in those two I changed to red. I think it looks much better. The picture isn't great, but it's the best I could do. The clock still needs some love, but from what I understand that's a more involved effort so it will stay as is for now.

Daniel

 

Looks good. What about the stereo? I have the same LCD problem…

 

This is for the stereo head

Tape available from your local cell phone repair shop otherwise it comes in a tube

There is a name for it starts with L or A for adhesive ...........Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive or LOCA

But this requires very controlled heat to apply and not too much to destroy the electronic membrane

I have built a very accurate temperature controlled oven to do this from a toaster oven at the thrift shop and a STC2000 thermistor controller

 

Sounds promising. Although I don’t really know what you mean!

here is my radio. I can get to the LCD screen. Then what do I do? DeSolder it from the board?

 

There is a membrane behind the glass that emits your symbols ( numbers and letters )

Between the membrane and glass there is LOCA like on your cell phone

I have 3 of these Jaguar AJ9500 stereo heads to play with but not experimented with yet

The membrane is not available that I can tell and is not a generic membrane dependent on the segment driver chip to determine the image to be shown

There are some picturs on the web of a taken apart AJ9500 and there is a trick or detail I will have to recall on the display removal

I've got one disassembled in a box I can retrieve and better photograph

This is a pic concerning the on / off switch

 

Okay thanks. Yes I’ve got as far as the picture and then I think I need to desolder and bend the tabs to get the panel off. I guess I can then get to the back of the LCD.

but once I have got that far I’m not clear what I need to do??

thanks in advance for helping!

 

I'll have to dig in my toybox in the morning

The LOCA glue requires heat the remove the glass from the membrane

This is the tricky part and must not exceed 180 degrees F or X C

Too hot and ruins the membrane

The LOCA tape can be obtained from a cell phone repair shop

To set the glue requires a UV lamp like at the nail saloons for setting their nail polish

Or you can set it in the sun for X amount of time

 

Okay so what you are saying is remove the LCD from the board. Somehow heat it to 180 degrees.

Then peal the membrane away from the glass.

then apply new glue.

then shine UV light to set it.

then solder it back into the board?

Will research further. Thanks for the lead!

 

The glue residue must be heated and removed after delamination

A cheap try would be to take a cardboard box and cut out a opening so you can place a clothing iron upside down in the opening

Heating plate face up

With a oven thermometer placed on the heating plate ( and some how well seated on the plate for a accurate temperature reading )

Before placing the display assembly on the heating plate move the iron temp control knob up in increments until you reach 170degee F

Then place display assembly on the heating plate and see if that tempature is enough to delaminate the glass layer

A window glass paint scraper blade may help split them but the membrane is not metalor durable

A sharpened guitar pic ?

Do not exceed 190 degree F and 180 degree F hay be hot enough to damage the electronic membrane

 

Do you think something like this will do it:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mti3MBc

 

Yes ,but it may be set to one temp and that temp may be too high

Without knowing the temp limits of the membrane in question you would be taking a gamble

But it may be set for the LOCA glue release point and that can be too high

Ideally you would want to approach it from a low temp setting

A hot air gun would work but you have little control over it

The desoldiering and soldiering process may over temp the membrane vs, the short time controlled wave soldering process

Liquid soldier ( from a tube ) for the reassembly ?

 

Plus this glue and UV light?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMIW9g6

then heat up the screen and try and separate the membrane from the screen and then apply the new glue and shine the UV light?

 

The glue can be found all over Ebay as your source is hard to obtain from ( I can be wrong )

The same is in tape form at the cell phone repair shops ( uniform layer of glue )

 

Sunshine model T12A seems to be everywhere

Looks to be a 2 piece unit . A controller and a separate heat pad

The same principle can be used with the STC200 in post # 7 picture . The STC2000 is 2 relays in reality

 

For the clock fix, I just used the end tip of a regular domestic iron to heat bond the ribbon cable. It was really easy & works fine a year or so down the line.

 

Someone had a recommendation of taking a soldiering iron and wrapping a copper wire on the tip to conduct heat down the copper wire

This makes for a more pinpoint heat application and not a generalized larger area heat

This applies to the clock and stereo

Liquid soldier for the ribbon as it has a lower melting point

Fluxing a must