Place you finger on the right engine bay fuse box relay as this must click closed to power fuse # Z that is your first power to the engine ECU ( Starter enable / agreement signal to the BPM )

One person test is with the ignition key in the run position without starting remove the relay and it should click in your fingertips back to the open position

Swapping option is the left engine bay fuse box relay ( only runs your car horn )

 

What Brendan said earlier about the crankshaft position sensor not causing a NO CRANK problem is correct. It can certainly cause a NO START , but not no crank.

 

He appears to be working 2 problems one being his coil / fuel rail area wiring but his first recovery is for the starter to rotate before he can see sustained combustion to carry on forward

So he needs to build out from starter rotation task

He should see a short engine run consuming the initial 3 second fuel charging that has to do only with key rotation and not the CKPS signal that comes into play for the rest of the duration of drive in normal operation

This short engine run will verify his coil wires hookup and CKPS signal for timing aspect

Later if he has recovered his CKPS signal fully he should get a full sustained / duration engine start / run

 

There's no diagnostic evidence in this thread of a failed CKPS or a problem in the wiring to it.

The only perceived issue is is a short between Orange cable on CKPS loom and the Shield. The orange cable is a signal ground. The shield is grounded. So I'd expect to see continuity between the two. Am I missing something?

 

I see it on pin 26 of the ECU connector

So he is reading a sneak path on the Orange wire

Thinking and reviewing

See minute 2 of the video and what is the effect of one leg being grounded

I think it will be a chopped off sine wave

Pulling brain together

But his first focus would be starter rotation

 

If I get any free time today, I'll be back at it. All the relevant fuses are solid. Will check relays for starter circuit More than a little worried about no CEL. Thanks guys - Stu

 

So . . .I got to thinking this over and decided to retrace my steps. The only solid action (I know I did this), no guess at what I might have messed up, is this: I took the four white with purple dash wires from the bulk head loom and connected two to three power leads on the coils and the other two to the other three power leads and all six green with different dash color wires to their respective ECU leads on the coils 1 thru 6. The original configuration had all six white with purple dash wires from coils to all four white with purple dash from bulkhead loom. Reconnected the power leads and the four bulkhead leads all in a bundle as original. It's now running, transmission light is out, CEL still not lit, still has random misfiring and a rough idle. Time to get out the smoke machine I guess. I do have codes now as before there was nothing from the ECU on my i930 scan tool. Most codes I can ignore (2nd air injection and EGR are not even there anymore, due to header install) and cats at the down pipe are gone also. So . . . at least I can take it down the road. How do you check the indicator/warning lights on dash?

 

 

So ...........................

There should be a CEL light reset to clear the latched in items as you are clearing them out in resolultion

Will have to spend some time deciphering your coil wire hookup

Your starter is rotating and engine running so you're past that point

Soon you will be

Soon you will be

Soon you will be

Purring like a Jaguar

 

Edit on last post. There are four white / purple wires at the bulkhead. I have a feeling the PO took out the CEL bulb, after getting tired of looking at it.