So, after 3 weeks i have done the following to this poor neglected vanden plas. sorry for wall of text, question at end.

Replace all spark plugs
Cleaned all grounds and power pass throughs I could find
replaced Evap control shrader valve
Cleaned throttle body, idle air control valve and PCV tube
replaced air filter, replaced fuel filter, pumped out all gas and flushed all fuel lines
checked ignition coils for cracks (temporarily wrapped in silicone tape are cracked)
pulled every fuse for inspection and replaced ignition control relay
replaced alternator ( old one failed all voltage tests in car and out )
replaced all drive belts

SO after all of this, i get in the car today at like 7:30 PM start it up and DO NOT turn on headlights, and the dash lights that illuminate speedometer RPM's ect. are on as if my headlights are on. When i turn on the headlights the trip meter, clock ( which is almost completely working after electric work ) and radio all dim as expected.

Is this normal? I have never really noticed if the speedometer and all were always illuminated.

 

Me too, brother! But only my XJ6 does this, not the other two. All dash lighting is on whenever ignition is on. Unusual, but I don't see any harm in it.

Good you've got all those important tasks behind you, now time for some driving!

 

Well i did find this TSB but i can't find the official release.

u r s d a y , A p r i l 1 8 , 2 0 1 395 Sedan range interior illumination issues

1995> Sedan Range vehicles may experience fascia panel lighting and interior lighting
malfunctions that can be caused by the back of the radio chafing on the fascia
harness, In-Car Entertainment (ICE) system harness or the center console harness.

Some conditions found to be caused by harness chafing include:

^Dimmer module fuse blows - shorted to ground.

^No locate lighting.

^No interior lighting.

^Interior lighting remains ON - ground wire from module constantly grounded.

^Control panel illumination faults.

^Hazard flasher light remains ON at all times.

^Climate Control panel inoperative.

1. Remove the radio, switch pack and climate control panel as an assembly.

2. Check the harnesses running along the console and behind the radio for evidence of
chafing.

3. If chafing is found, repair the wires, apply suitable protection such as 3M Glass
Cloth Tape or convoluted tubing to the harness and secure the harness away from the
sharp edges of the radio chassis and heat sink.

4. Check the operation of the systems listed.

5. Reinstall the climate control panel and the radio.

6. Check the operation of all systems.

 

I believe the cause of your problem is your coils, silly but bad coils are known for causing dash lights to act all funny. my 2 cents.

 

jeremiahjaguar,

Is there a test procedure for the coils other than visual inspection that i could do to find coils that are worse off than others?

With all the distention among the ranks of members as to aftermarket VS. OEM coils I think ideally id like to replace them over time with OEM as we are all aware those coils are VERY expensive.

I would like to add the dash lights are only on when car ignition is running or in position 1 and 2 if key is out lights go out

Could it be the illumination control module? PN: LXF6490AA

thanks

 

bad coils often do not show up on a hand held scanner so you can take your car to a jag shop that will run diagnostics with the proper equipment. What i do is wait until its dark outside remove the coil cover and start the car, take a look at the coils in the dark with the car running and the ones that light up or arc in any way are bad. the coils that are cracked are bad and should be replaced.

 

So i have done the arching test, and have not seen any arching even used TP tube to look at tops of coils.

I wasn't refering to a handheld scanner more to like a ohm or voltage test procedure for the coils, all coils appear to be cracked

See photo below, is that the aforementioned cracks everyone talks about?

 

The problem with the volt ohm meter is that the coils often fail intermittently, meaning they are good one minute and bad the next. I had bad coils that tested good with the volt ohm meter. the cracked coils are caused by heat. What I have done was create/cut a sleeve for each coil out of a bicycle tube that slide right over each coil, this kept my coils insulated. I bought a set of cheap coils on ebay for 200.00 complete or 40.00 individual, covered them up with my diy insulation sleeve and have been good for 1 year now. I know eventually I will need to buy the good ones but im ok for now. the only way i knew my 4 of my coils were bad was by diagnostics by a jag shop, cost me 60.00. And they wanted 1000.00 to replace my coils, I told them no thanxxxxx and repaired it myself.