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Hello ! Need your help ! My jaguar x300 xj6 1995 vanden plas had rusted metal between trunk and rear bumper , my father in law are fixing it by welding and painting , after the welding the car got crazy (maybe a coincidense) key fob unlocks only 3 doors but not driver doors , it wont start , not even starter makes any sound , the welding was done with battery disconected but still i checked all the fuses , all good , maybe the security module in trunk got damaged ? Key slots in doors are changed by previous owner so i cant even open the driver door manually only from inside , when turned ignition on , i hear all the sounds as usual , fuel pump etc but not even trying to start , also wipers , headlights , turn signals etc doesnt work , checked the slm module in the trunk , inside out its like new , chatgpt says its 99percent security module dead , but cant trust the AI to start changing parts
Appreciate any help
this effects transmission version and the different starter circuit specifics
The heart of your starter system rotating is the body processor module located behind the glove box ( do not remove BPM )
The BPM sums all the enables ( security , transmission position , ect ) to which it ( BPM ) then provides a ground to close the external to starter motor located on large relay rack starter solenoid relay
If you place your finger on this relay it will tell you if the BPM is providing the closing ground path or if it does click on your finger tip you have a battery cable power lacking to the starter , must use finger as more relays click in area at same time
Battery removed to check at an auto parts store ?
Starter voltage sag on the voltage gauge indicating the starter wants to turn but lacking
Never install battery back in backward , positive post fwd
Never over tighten the positive post clamp bolt , splits special curved nut underneith
There is a hard reset for the BPM and security lock control module but effects X300 outside of USA ( locks out stereo if original Jaguar / Alpine stereo head )
You can directly command the starter solenoid to close by jumpering with a medium gauge wire between sockets 3 and 5 of the starter solenoid relay
This is a print of the 4.0 version as 3.2 different
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Last edited by Parker 7; Aug 24, 2025 at 03:22 PM.
yes its 4.0 automatic , i 100 percent know its something electrical because i started my car just fine today shortening the starter , i started to look at the symptoms like 3 times locking and unlocking and like 99% of people having this problem blames the door lock actuator , so my next day mission will be to clean and lube the door locking system , the SLM is fine i guess because the car doesnt start and acts the same as before when i unplug the SLM , also lots of people says it can be body control module , old battery or even key fob battery going , will see
For a whole car power distribution test have the key in run position but not started
Remove the small relay in the corner of the 5 fuse boxes with the exception of the left engine bay fuse box , so we have 4 total
The relay should click in your finger tips as you remove , relay will go back open as you remove it , swapping option is the left engine bay fuse box as left only runs car horns
There are 3 levels of trouble shooting ;
What Jimmy did
Percentage
Mastery
Lubing the door lock is a chore before defining the issue
Since shorting the starter by...................................
Socket 3 to 5 of the starter solenoid relay ?
large screwdriver jumpering the starter solenoid from A to B ?
You did prove the battery cable connections and battery have enough umf
By the starter solenoid relay not clicking you prove defect in BPM , SLCM that feeds it ( BPM ) an enable , or a fuse that may have blown , solenoid and starter motor good
BPM fuse ........ trunk # X hot at all times directly linked to battery
SLCM fuse ............... trunk # Y hot at all times same
Starter Solenoid control fuse .................right engine bay fuse box # Z ( 10 or 12 or 14 or 16 ) these 4 fuse positions must have the small relay in the corner of the fuse box close so we come back around to the whole car power distribution as a section ( right engine bay fuse box )
The BPM and or SLCM may have been knocked and or locked out of the logic steps to not be at zero / fresh state
You may have a chip in key effecting the immobilization , this can be modified / negated by Andy in England . the engine ECU that is used in the immobilization can not be reset , the test for immunization comes in the form of dash light sequence that others would know more about , I'm in the USA that does not have this chip in key
Immobilization decoder module fuse # ...................trunk fuse A
Last edited by Parker 7; Aug 26, 2025 at 12:23 PM.