The OEM TPS does indeed say Ford. I believe there are posts where people attempted (and failed) to adapt a different TPS for this car. Everyone suspects there is another TPS that would work, but no one can find it.

As for the oil separator, agreed, as long as you wipe down that throttle body once a year, probably less often then that, you’ll be fine. You certainly have bigger fish to fry.

Remember about the manual adjustment procedure when fitting the replacement one on.

 

Hello all! Time for an update.

Used throttle body and TPS, with IDAC, arrived today. Bench test of ohms on TPS looked good. It has an even sweep, no dead spots, and not jumpy. Returns to same zero state everytime. Mounted on a throttle body went from 560-4050 Ohms. Mounted on my engine, i could not get it close to .5 volts for signal feed. It is however .600 volts right on at rest. A drive test, and its working properly. Throttle response back, even quick accel back with no stumbles. Transmission kickdown now functions as it should. Shift points vary now with engine load, and throttle plate position. Stays in lower gears on WOT now like it should. in Sport mode it takes it nearly to redline before upshifting on WOT. Good.

Idle, bad. Actually slightly worse. I suspect now that I have a working TPS the ECM needs to relearn its fuel mapping. I will give it some time and if it does not settle down that indicates to me i need the IDLE Reset done by a shop. Or I need to spend time working up a VCM setup.

With this good fortune on a used TPS, it has restored my interest.I officially only have 795 Dollars in the vehicle. Pretty good id say. Has New battery, New alternator, New Plugs. New Camcover gasket, plug and bolt seals, New QYL Coils, replacement used key fobs, used drivers door lock, used throttle body w/TPS. I can now spend the money i saved on the TPS on much needed differential rebuild bearings and output bearings....wheel bearings too.

I was actually pretty far on a work around to use a standard TPS sensor, and a custom 3d Printed part. I may still go through with that plan just out of curiosity.

Up next week, power steering fixes. Hopefully I can bring this cat back from near death. She is close now. Just for a daily driver.

Thanks so far VEE, and all who chime in.

 

That is great to hear. When I bought my first XJS, after cleaning out the throttle, which was so bad, it was stalling out my engine, I did have a wonky engine for a few days. It didn’t take too long for the car to get used to a clean throttle. What your experiencing isnt out of the ordinary.

The TPS is the source of many an unsolvable issue. The problem is that they often bench test well. I had that issue on my car. Proper voltage, smooth sweep, using both digital and (more accurate in this test) analog multimeter! Unfortunately the car was being overfuelled and after spending a ton on parts, it ended up being the TPS.

Its a shame that the part is so darn expensive!

I’d LOVE to hear about any attempts to recreate that part using some generic pieces and a 3D printer!

 

While you have the entire rear end down, I'd upgrade to spicer "life" UJs and replace all the worn shock bushes. Any local 4x4 shop should be able to rebuild the Jag D44\15HU without too much hassle.


Side note: The "Ford" TPS on the AJ16 is related to the Cologne 2.4\2.9 V6 part, but rotates in the opposite direction. The original part is still available from JLR at a more reasonable but still ridiculous $200ish + shipping, as compared to the $475 for the Intermotor TH417.

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...ntiometer.html

 

Why rebuild the diff? I didn’t think that was any common source of trouble...ever.

 

the diff is very tough but it can lose pinion preload and make really annoying noise on accel/deceleration.

the halfshaft output bearings and wheel bearings are speed related noises

 

I will post a video if i can. There is an extreme amount of movement in the output shaft on LH side. I have extreme grinding, not whining, while driving. It increases with vehicle speed. I have only taken this car out for short trips as i am sorting it out. Investigating what i thought was wheel bearing or brake grinding noise...it appears that is not the case. looks like the output shaft bearings. From what i know about IRS differentials, more than likely the metal shavings from the fragged bearings are throughout the differential now. The pinion shaft seal is leaking also. Its just time for it to be done. Dang. Does anyone know if these rear ends have the tapered bearings on output shafts or regular ball bearings? I seem to find both listed as replacement parts.

On the plus side, after warming up to temp in the driveway, a quick 10 min drive around the area seemed to run great. Idle issue is getting better, maybe the ECM is learning the new curve of the TPS on its own?

 

shredded bearings will absolutely bleed into the fluid. they have a taper to them as you can see in the link.

getting the stub/shaft off is less than an hour per side, dropping the pumpkin is a lot more involved. get someone to press it in and press it out and you’re good to go. when everything’s back together just pump in some redline 75w250 and send it.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F283647158804

 

Not sure that's the right fluid, I believe its 75w90 for the facelift 4.0 cars.