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I gotta tell you, dude... My instructions were pretty specific and then you describe measuring the voltage on eight different wires as "roughly six volts". I don't know what to tell you.
Like I said, I've never done this before and appreciate the input and patience. I tested the wires Bob mentioned would be power, but you're saying check all 4? No problem. Shall do and will report back this evening with results.
OK, the faults are saying the sense circuits are reading a voltage greater than expected, which CAN come from the heaters not working. Assuming you tested the heater circuit supply wires AND assuming their ground connections are fine (one of the other voltage tests!) then your heaters are working, so the fault then implies that the sense circuit may be open. That voltage should be fluctuating between a voltage less than one volt and a voltage near 5 volts, depending on the mixture.
This is a bit over my head but I'm increasing my altitude. I am going to re-test the sensors and do all four wires. I have a code reader that gives me codes. I am not sure how to use it to delve in deeper. I'll look into that. My only other concern could be whether or not the metalurgy of my sensors is correct when re-reading what was posted earlier in the thread:
"The sensors are of the Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) type, which have a tip, composed of an alumina substrate with a thick film titanium dioxide element. The TiO2 sensor does not require reference air to detect the oxygen content of the exhaust, so flooding or contamination of the sensor exterior will not affect sensor performance. The resistance of the sensor element varies greatly with the partial pressure of oxygen in the exhaust gas. This change in resistance is converted to a change in voltage output to the ECM via a constant voltage source and reference resistance. Whenever the air / fuel ratio passes lambda-1 (stoichiometric mixture), the sensor delivers a voltage swing, indicating whether the mixture is richer or leaner than lambda-1."
I will test and I am going to swap out up stream to downstream maybe to see if it's sensor related. They are all new Bosch.
Here's another recurring issue that could be completely unrelated or not. My brake light display illuminates while I drive by flashing and then stays illuminated when I apply the brakes. My front passenger 5 amp fuse for the passenger side parking lights and license plate lights keeps burning out. My coilpacks are brand new and the car runs great. How can I track down a possible loose ground? I've gone through the car one by one and cleaned terminals, etc. with steel wool and a wire brush. The only thing I haven't gotten off was the ground near the starter. I got the other end that goes to the chassis. Maybe related maybe not...thanks again.
Last edited by SD96XJ6L; Dec 18, 2015 at 07:11 PM.
You will need to keep the connectors connected to get meaningful data. You will need a needle type probe on your meter to "back probe" the connector - that means sticking the probe down the back of the connector past the rubber seal to connect to the terminal. If you only have standard probes you can stick a hat pin or something like that down there and measure from that.
Post the voltages from all 4 pins on BOTH sensors - while the engine is at idle and warm. Measure each of them for at least 5 seconds.
On one pin you should see varying voltage between low (0.1v) and high (4.7v), swinging every second roughly. That is effectively the sensor output.
I agre with b1mcp, of course, but I will say your open circuit results look some wires are cross connected. So, you are sure all of the sensors have factory installed plugs (on the sensor side)? You see no splices or bare wires on the vehicle side connectors or wiring? And I am assuming you were reading voltages exactly in exactly the condition you showed- in other words with the connector disconnected and probing it from the face?
I am not sure which wire is which from that view, BUT at least one wire should be showing ground.or 0 volts. I will have a look at a connector later today.
I have thought through this a little more.
1) Are you sure that you have had both connectors connected, and then done a OBD reset, seen the faukts go away, and then had both faults return after running a while?
2) How sure are you that you have titania sensors installed with correct wiring? I know you have answered this, but I am asking why you are sure.
3) Do you see any signs of wiring splices on the sensor wiring circuits?
The reason I am "cross examining" you is that the faults and circumstances, along with the open circuit voltages you read do not add up to a likely naturally occurring set of circumstances except possible the things alluded to by my questions, or water damage at the ECU pins, which is a not too uncommon failure these days.
Yes, I can clear the codes and they come back. I need to drive it more today and see if I can duplicate the CEL.
I am not positive I have the Titania sensors. They were all "OE" Bosch and plugged right in, no splicing, etc. How do I find out which material my sensors are made out of?
They are all Bosch 13789
No signs of splicing anywhere.
After cleaning up grounds I am no longer getting the random console display of all my gauges going whacko when I fire up my HD ballasts. Randomy, that would happen and my airbag light would go on and the airbag notification would dominate my center display until I restarted the car. Again, this issue seems to have been resolved after cleaning and tightening grounds.
You can clear the "AIRBAG" notification from the info center with a single press of the "ODO" button on the console inboard of the steering wheel and outboard of cruise control. Unfortunately, you are stuck with the red warning light.
(Thanks Motorcarman)
Mine was intermittent and returned the code for "#2 crash sensor not mounted properly." It has not returned after I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the driver's side crash sensor.
