Hi from new member and few tech questions
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi from new member and few tech questions
Hi all.
I`m ANdy , I had my 96 XJ6 3.2 auto for 3.5 years now. Since I`ve bought it i`ve done few modifications, I fitted xj8 sport seats in maching oatmeal colour, I replaced rear shocks and springs at the back , fitted 18" XKR Double five wheels, Sony single din radio conversion. JAg mascot on the bonnet and the next step, as i already have got the parts ready is front suspension - ball joints , rod ends and shocks ( After fight with A frame at the back i`ll pass on springs i think)
This is how the car looks like now
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...8/P1020928.jpg
I have few issues i need help with:
1.Timing chain and tensioners ( I`ve replaced upper tensioner but no improvement)
- Anyone have "How to" for this, I`ve seen how to for v8 engines but not for I6. WHen engine is cold it`s perfect no rattle at start up and during the drive, but once it`s hot - when You shut ist and start right away there is no rattle but if You leave hot engine for 3-5 minutes there is a rattle for few seconds, and at certain rpm about 1500rpm it ratles when driving slowly , no rattle at hard acceleration.
2. I didn`t use the car for a while and I found this issue with idle when hot , after gentle acceleration the rpm stays at 1500 I have to pres the gas pedal rapidly and then it dorps down to 800
ANy input will be helpful
Many thanks
Andy
I`m ANdy , I had my 96 XJ6 3.2 auto for 3.5 years now. Since I`ve bought it i`ve done few modifications, I fitted xj8 sport seats in maching oatmeal colour, I replaced rear shocks and springs at the back , fitted 18" XKR Double five wheels, Sony single din radio conversion. JAg mascot on the bonnet and the next step, as i already have got the parts ready is front suspension - ball joints , rod ends and shocks ( After fight with A frame at the back i`ll pass on springs i think)
This is how the car looks like now
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...8/P1020928.jpg
I have few issues i need help with:
1.Timing chain and tensioners ( I`ve replaced upper tensioner but no improvement)
- Anyone have "How to" for this, I`ve seen how to for v8 engines but not for I6. WHen engine is cold it`s perfect no rattle at start up and during the drive, but once it`s hot - when You shut ist and start right away there is no rattle but if You leave hot engine for 3-5 minutes there is a rattle for few seconds, and at certain rpm about 1500rpm it ratles when driving slowly , no rattle at hard acceleration.
2. I didn`t use the car for a while and I found this issue with idle when hot , after gentle acceleration the rpm stays at 1500 I have to pres the gas pedal rapidly and then it dorps down to 800
ANy input will be helpful
Many thanks
Andy
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 279
Likes: 6
From: Columbia, SC
I know a few members on jag-lovers.org have done battle with the timing chains,
if you search the X300 archives I'm sure you can unearth all kinds of information, I'm always reading something new there.
if you search the X300 archives I'm sure you can unearth all kinds of information, I'm always reading something new there.
Veteran Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,547
Likes: 2,546
From: Crewe, England
Hi Felga
There is a tensioner on the lower chain of the AJ-6 engine that eventually gives out. It can be replaced easily and cheaply from the outside of the engine; essentially the wear means it runs out of travel so leaving the chain a wee bit loose. This should cure your rattle. I don't know the part number, though.
These 6 cylinder engines are pretty bullet-proof. (unlike the V8s that superseded them !!)
There is a tensioner on the lower chain of the AJ-6 engine that eventually gives out. It can be replaced easily and cheaply from the outside of the engine; essentially the wear means it runs out of travel so leaving the chain a wee bit loose. This should cure your rattle. I don't know the part number, though.
These 6 cylinder engines are pretty bullet-proof. (unlike the V8s that superseded them !!)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi
Thx for info, I went do diagnostics just to have a clear picture whats wrong, and everything looks ok, but the guy said that to change the chains You need to drop the head, i didn`t know that bottom tensioner can be chaged from the bottom, i assume i need to take the oil pan off right ?
The high rps are from sticky TB I will take it apart and clean.
The car has 121k miles done and the ratling started about 1.5 year ago, but i didn`t use the car i`ve done maybe 1000miles in it.
I`ll look into this chain tensioner and try to fix it.
Andy
Thx for info, I went do diagnostics just to have a clear picture whats wrong, and everything looks ok, but the guy said that to change the chains You need to drop the head, i didn`t know that bottom tensioner can be chaged from the bottom, i assume i need to take the oil pan off right ?
The high rps are from sticky TB I will take it apart and clean.
The car has 121k miles done and the ratling started about 1.5 year ago, but i didn`t use the car i`ve done maybe 1000miles in it.
I`ll look into this chain tensioner and try to fix it.
Andy
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 279
Likes: 6
From: Columbia, SC
If you're just changing the tensioners, that should be a fairly straight forward job, if you know what you're up against.
but, even so, you do not need to remove the cylinder head to replace the chains. the only reason to remove the cylinder head would be to change the head gasket, and that took me about three weeks, what with a full time job & all that jazz, and rebuilding/refurbishing the head myself. You'll have to remove the camshaft sprockets if you want to change the upper chain, but even that is not necessary to replace just the upper tensioner. replacing the upper tensioner only requires the removal of the cam position sensor and the two bolts and 3mm allen key [to retract the tensioner] to remove/replace.
the timing chains shouldn't take you more than about a day or so [6-16 hours]
to complete, again, if you know what you're up against. clearance is the only issue/aggravation.
but, even so, you do not need to remove the cylinder head to replace the chains. the only reason to remove the cylinder head would be to change the head gasket, and that took me about three weeks, what with a full time job & all that jazz, and rebuilding/refurbishing the head myself. You'll have to remove the camshaft sprockets if you want to change the upper chain, but even that is not necessary to replace just the upper tensioner. replacing the upper tensioner only requires the removal of the cam position sensor and the two bolts and 3mm allen key [to retract the tensioner] to remove/replace.
the timing chains shouldn't take you more than about a day or so [6-16 hours]
to complete, again, if you know what you're up against. clearance is the only issue/aggravation.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KarimPA
New Member Area - Intro a MUST
8
Sep 3, 2015 07:32 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)