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The TB probably does not have a heli coil insert as original ( I can't remember when I removed mine ) and if it did it may be stuck on the removed bolt
You can replace or add a heli coil
The bolt is supposed to be Loctited in originally and heat softens the loctite and I hear there is a chemical softener
You're not the first
You will probably have to take the bolt to a hardware store to verify the thread as it is a odd size at least on the head ( not of concern , just the treads )
Ok so i got it back on and got it in.
i screwed it in,
plugged it in,
it wound in a bit,
so then i screwd it in,
but now the car is idilng way too low.
its at 500 in park and Doesnt really want to start
…..
ok so now it is idling at ~700 in park. I guess i will keep an eye on it and be prepared to buy a new iacv.
hopefully now it can move properly and learns what the right spot to be is
i guess now the test will be once it cools
down and see how a cold start goes.
……
edit….
currently testing… starting it a few times and it seems it is hard to tell the idle…
used my other sensor in cool water and got a cold start but at 1400rpm….
then connected the normal sensor and got 1200rpm….
so i guess now will be a waiting game to see…..
what i can tell is that temp reading is affecting the idle.
the iacv is moving….
Last edited by Spud Maat; Oct 1, 2022 at 10:28 PM.
The idle controller is a GM part, they are common on quite a few cars. There is a spec somewhere for how far the plunger needs to be screwed in, but I can't remember what it is. I'd try adjusting it a bit before buying a new one. The ECU should be moving the plunger to obtain the target idle speed, but it might be out of it's range of adjustment.
Ok. So the valve appears to be working. Atleast kind of.
it does appear to move in and out a little but it is not sitting itself in the right spot.
after a few starts it seems to set itself back to high idle.
if i manually set it closed, and then leave it unplugged i can keep it all the way closed. So much so that it cannot start.
but I could set it at any idle, and leave it disconnected.
so my guess is that whilst it is moving somewhat it is not moving properly and it is homing itself to a high idle.
so i will guess a replacement iacv will help.
The idle controller is a GM part, they are common on quite a few cars. There is a spec somewhere for how far the plunger needs to be screwed in, but I can't remember what it is. I'd try adjusting it a bit before buying a new one. The ECU should be moving the plunger to obtain the target idle speed, but it might be out of it's range of adjustment.
do you know the gm part number?
as all i can find here is the jag part for $250
do you know the gm part number?
as all i can find here is the jag part for $250
I'm not 100% sure, but I think this is it:https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ac)+valve,6072
GM number is 19351706 or 217409. There are two different ways to wire the coils inside and I'm not sure if the GM and the Jag are the same, I have never tried a direct swap.
One thing that I would try first before buying parts is a throttle adaptation. That needs dealer level software and a cable, but then you can tell the ECU where closed throttle is and then it will start controlling the idle. If the ECU thinks it isn't at closed throttle, it simply won't move the idle controller. I'd start there before throwing parts at the car.
The software is called SDD and you need a Mongoose cable. There are large discussions on this website in the various subforums. A genuine Mongoose cable is very expensive, but there are clones that work with varying degrees of success. You can probably get it done at a Jag specialist in Sydney, should only be about 1/2 hour worth of labour.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think this is it:https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ac)+valve,6072
GM number is 19351706 or 217409. There are two different ways to wire the coils inside and I'm not sure if the GM and the Jag are the same, I have never tried a direct swap.
One thing that I would try first before buying parts is a throttle adaptation. That needs dealer level software and a cable, but then you can tell the ECU where closed throttle is and then it will start controlling the idle. If the ECU thinks it isn't at closed throttle, it simply won't move the idle controller. I'd start there before throwing parts at the car.
The software is called SDD and you need a Mongoose cable. There are large discussions on this website in the various subforums. A genuine Mongoose cable is very expensive, but there are clones that work with varying degrees of success. You can probably get it done at a Jag specialist in Sydney, should only be about 1/2 hour worth of labour.
i plan to take the car to a specialst in the next couple weeks anyway to get it looked over and get the front crank seal replaced and find put what is the go overall
Ok, so i have not been able to get the idle problems sorted,
so for now i have band-aided it.
i disconnected the IACv and have the idle set at 700 in park and when i put it to drive it drops to 600.
so that will keep it running nicely for now.
i will just lose the cold start function.
went for a drive and due to mix of freeway and traffic, thanks to andy bracket even with high idle at lights (there was a fair few sets) my consumption was down to 12.7 so very happy in that regard.
now i have adjusted the idle hopefully it will be nice now.
i did check and note the resistance of the temp sensor after my drive and got a reading of 259 so apparently that is good. idle was still high tho. hense why i think it is the IACV and have disconnected it for now.
but, i now have a bigger problem. I had a front crank seal leak.
but on the way home the seal appears to have blown out and the leak is not just a leak anymore. There is oil all over the front of the motor.
Sigh…..
Last edited by Spud Maat; Oct 2, 2022 at 03:04 AM.
This gets into the cycles aspect of ECU regulation returning to normal
The IACV reset is only temporary on the AJ16 engines. It will be "reset" only until the car is turned off, then it will revert to whatever it was doing before. I don't see how it is relevant, but here it is:
Run engine until you reach normal operating temperature.
Switch ignition off.
Switch ignition on, wait 5 seconds, then disconnect the connector to the idle speed controller.
Switch ignition off.
Wait 15 seconds then reconnect idle speed controller.
Repeat two more times.
On last repeat, do not reconnect idle speed controller.
Start the engine.
Check the base idle speed, which should be at 550-600rpm.
i saw that elsewhere,
but also read in the same post.
"the iacv reset is only temporary, after turning car off it will go back to whatever it was doing before"
and after the last step when do you plug it in?
when the car is now running?
or after you turn it off?
Last edited by Spud Maat; Oct 2, 2022 at 05:38 PM.
