Evening all

My key fob started to get worse and worse to the point I had to stand by the car to lock it. Eventually stopped working. Battery change required so I assumed. When I opened the fob it had two round 3v batteries. Bought same, put back in (one atop of the other) - nothing. Sometimes the red light would come on and then stay on. Sometimes nothing. I assumed it was a dodgy fob. Ordered used one off Ebay. It arrived with a single battery in it and no cover. Pressing the buttons showed one light worked.

Went through the procedure to code the fob - boot open, key in, valet switch 5 times etc. car responded to show it was ready to program. When I pressed the fob nothing. Procedure simply times out and car chirps to say its all over. So I thought maybe the battery in the "new" one was dead. Put the other batteries in that I bought for my old fob - nothing.

Pressing the buttons on "new" fob just gives a feint flashing of the LED.

What should happen on a working fob when you press the buttons - continuous LED lit? Goes off when releasing button? Does the feint flashing indicate a broken fob? Pretty narked off as I paid about £50 for this replacement fob and the seller says it was tested and working and refuses to communicate. I am still opening my car with the single black (bent!) key I have which is a nuisance especially when I have bags and stuff and have to rush to put key in ignition to stop the bleeping when opening the car.

Help!!

 

Hi.

This is the procedure I used.

Did you press the large button ?

Also the batteries should be CR2016 x 2

1. Open the trunk lid and driver's door.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON or II position
3. Rock the valet switch located in the center console storage compartment 5 times. A
single confirmation chirp and flash of the
headlamps indicate that the Security Locking Control Module (SLCM) has entered the
learning mode.
Note: If difficulty is experienced entering the learning mode, check that the valet switch is
functioning properly by removing it and checking
continuity.
4. Press the arm/lock (larger) button of the first transmitter. This transmitter will be linked
to position 1 of the seat/column/mirror memory. A tone
will confirm that the transmitter code was accepted. If no transmitter buttons are pushed,
the SLCM will also time out after 15 seconds of
inactivity, indicated by two chirps.
5. Rock the valet switch once. Two short chirps will signal that the system is prepared to
accept the second transmitter.
6. Press the arm/lock button of the second transmitter. This transmitter will be linked to the
position 2 of the seat/column/mirror memory. A tone
will confirm that the transmitter code was accepted.
7. Rock the valet switch once. Three short chirps will signal that the system is prepared to
accept the third transmitter.
8. Press the arm/lock button of the third transmitter. A tone will confirm that the
transmitter code was accepted. This transmitter and any others will
not be linked to a position in the seat/column/mirror memory.
9. The process of pressing the valet switch and waiting for the number of chirps equivalent
to the transmitter number can be repeated for a fourth
and fifth transmitter. The valet switch can be pressed to cycle through the unneeded
transmitter programming sequences. The SLCM will also
time out after 15 seconds of inactivity, indicated by two chirps. This will save the
transmitter codes entered up to this point.
10. Turn the ignition switch off, remove the key, and close the doors and trunk lid.
11. Check for proper system operation including the recall of seat, steering wheel and
mirror memory positions 1 and 2 from the handset transmitter.

Page from Security manual.

 

The lights should flicker while pressing the button then stop when released. Red for lock and green for unlock. Steady on means some kind of fault which may or may not be solved with new batteries. It sounds like your car can't pick up the remote signal during programming.

The case isn't hard to pry apart, which will allow you to check the buttons on the board. Sometimes they fail. Or just pry out the rubber buttons to see below them.

I have four fobs, but one is unreliable and one is dead!

You might have seen the posts here about the fob battery covers for sale in Marketplace. There is also a seller of new keys cut to your code.

 

I understand your priority is a working fob but the model forums are littered with distress stories from members relying on only ONE key and it goes missing or breaks. It's expensive to get any replacement Jaguar key but it gets very expensive when there isn't one to copy. Better to resolve this at leisure rather than in a panic!

Graham