Lower Radiator Hose-Heated
#1
07-31-2015, 07:09 AM
Lower Radiator Hose-Heated
Hello everyone,
I am currently carrying out some preventative maintenance on my '96 XJR.
I ordered an after market replacement (please see attached photos) hose for the lower radiator hose before I removed the lower radiator hose--which was a royal PITA--but they are not same!
I did not know that radiator hoses could even have plugs in them.
Now:
-do I keep the after market hose and replace the original heated one? (I was not able to find a heated one) will that cause any other foreseeable problems?
-does anyone know where I can find the heated variant for the hose?
-can I find a refurbished heated hose? (is there even such a thing?) is there a way to refurbish it myself?
-do I REALLY have to replace this hose? It didn't have any leaks--I just did it because I heard, through various online forums, that it is advisable.
Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.
Best
I am currently carrying out some preventative maintenance on my '96 XJR.
I ordered an after market replacement (please see attached photos) hose for the lower radiator hose before I removed the lower radiator hose--which was a royal PITA--but they are not same!
I did not know that radiator hoses could even have plugs in them.
Now:
-do I keep the after market hose and replace the original heated one? (I was not able to find a heated one) will that cause any other foreseeable problems?
-does anyone know where I can find the heated variant for the hose?
-can I find a refurbished heated hose? (is there even such a thing?) is there a way to refurbish it myself?
-do I REALLY have to replace this hose? It didn't have any leaks--I just did it because I heard, through various online forums, that it is advisable.
Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.
Best
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EZDriver (08-02-2015)
#2
07-31-2015, 09:04 AM
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Lots of Canadian market cars came with the heated lower hose to keep the coolant warm.....part of a 'cold weather package' or some such. Can be useful if the car is exposed to severe freezing conditions. Otherwise, no, you don't need it. Just use the hose without the heater fitting.
The original hose is part number MNA4512AC. You can call Jaguar and see if it can still be ordered.
It's always best to replace coolant hoses *before* they start leaking.... and certainly better to replace 'em before they let go entirely leaving you stranded by the roadside in a giant pool of coolant.
This is triple-true on the XJR6. As you know, replacing the hose is a very big job.....impossible to do along the roadside and you'd pay a repair shop a small fortune to do the job, if they'd even be willing to try.
Far better to replace it before it fails, and under non-adverse conditions.
Cheers
DD
The original hose is part number MNA4512AC. You can call Jaguar and see if it can still be ordered.
It's always best to replace coolant hoses *before* they start leaking.... and certainly better to replace 'em before they let go entirely leaving you stranded by the roadside in a giant pool of coolant.
This is triple-true on the XJR6. As you know, replacing the hose is a very big job.....impossible to do along the roadside and you'd pay a repair shop a small fortune to do the job, if they'd even be willing to try.
Far better to replace it before it fails, and under non-adverse conditions.
Cheers
DD
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#3
07-31-2015, 04:41 PM
Veteran Member
The heater portion can be replaced with a aftermarket inline coolant heater.
The only difference is that it won't be molded in. The aluminum casting
will show. The installation process is to cut a piece out of the hose,
slip the remaining pieces on and clamp.
Those heaters, in my mind, are far better than block heaters because
they circulate the coolant by convection.
Whether you choose to find another hose, forget the heater, or add the heater,
replace the hose since you have it all apart anyways
If you are a forward thinking packrat you can always keep the old hose
as a spare.
The only difference is that it won't be molded in. The aluminum casting
will show. The installation process is to cut a piece out of the hose,
slip the remaining pieces on and clamp.
Those heaters, in my mind, are far better than block heaters because
they circulate the coolant by convection.
Whether you choose to find another hose, forget the heater, or add the heater,
replace the hose since you have it all apart anyways
If you are a forward thinking packrat you can always keep the old hose
as a spare.
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someguywithajag (08-02-2015)
#4
08-02-2015, 04:21 AM
#5
08-02-2015, 10:42 AM
Senior Member
Ohhh nice! ur in vancouver too? Im actually in Richmond, we should total meet up for a coffee sometime.
#6
08-02-2015, 04:58 PM
#7
08-02-2015, 09:56 PM
Senior Member
Trending Topics
#8
08-03-2015, 08:26 AM
Why do you have to get your rear suspension fixed?
I ask because when I went to get an alignment done, because the rear wheels have a very obvious negative camber angle, the mechanic told me that the control arms were bent. Which I find very hard to believe.
His solution was to either buy new control arms from the dealer or obtain a complete rear suspension.
Somehow I was less than convinced and sought advice from another mechanic. Who told me that the angles would sort themselves out after I got the wheels aligned.
I have not decided whom to believe. Especially since I am working,ever so slowly, on the front end*.
So do let us know how it turns out with the rear suspension.
*Replacing the exhaust valves in the cylinder head, renewing head gasket, rebuilding the leaking steering rack, replacing all the bushings on the front suspension, rebuilding the front brake calipers, sanding and repainting the front coil springs and the anti-sway bar, new AC compressor and condenser (btw alibaba is your source for cheap automotive parts--I got a new AC compressor for ~$100), minor electrical stuff (J-gate lights, LCD clock, neutral switch) AND this stupid radiator hose.
I ask because when I went to get an alignment done, because the rear wheels have a very obvious negative camber angle, the mechanic told me that the control arms were bent. Which I find very hard to believe.
His solution was to either buy new control arms from the dealer or obtain a complete rear suspension.
Somehow I was less than convinced and sought advice from another mechanic. Who told me that the angles would sort themselves out after I got the wheels aligned.
I have not decided whom to believe. Especially since I am working,ever so slowly, on the front end*.
So do let us know how it turns out with the rear suspension.
*Replacing the exhaust valves in the cylinder head, renewing head gasket, rebuilding the leaking steering rack, replacing all the bushings on the front suspension, rebuilding the front brake calipers, sanding and repainting the front coil springs and the anti-sway bar, new AC compressor and condenser (btw alibaba is your source for cheap automotive parts--I got a new AC compressor for ~$100), minor electrical stuff (J-gate lights, LCD clock, neutral switch) AND this stupid radiator hose.
#9
08-03-2015, 10:50 AM
Senior Member
Why do you have to get your rear suspension fixed?
I ask because when I went to get an alignment done, because the rear wheels have a very obvious negative camber angle, the mechanic told me that the control arms were bent. Which I find very hard to believe.
His solution was to either buy new control arms from the dealer or obtain a complete rear suspension.
Somehow I was less than convinced and sought advice from another mechanic. Who told me that the angles would sort themselves out after I got the wheels aligned.
I have not decided whom to believe. Especially since I am working,ever so slowly, on the front end*.
So do let us know how it turns out with the rear suspension.
*Replacing the exhaust valves in the cylinder head, renewing head gasket, rebuilding the leaking steering rack, replacing all the bushings on the front suspension, rebuilding the front brake calipers, sanding and repainting the front coil springs and the anti-sway bar, new AC compressor and condenser (btw alibaba is your source for cheap automotive parts--I got a new AC compressor for ~$100), minor electrical stuff (J-gate lights, LCD clock, neutral switch) AND this stupid radiator hose.
I ask because when I went to get an alignment done, because the rear wheels have a very obvious negative camber angle, the mechanic told me that the control arms were bent. Which I find very hard to believe.
His solution was to either buy new control arms from the dealer or obtain a complete rear suspension.
Somehow I was less than convinced and sought advice from another mechanic. Who told me that the angles would sort themselves out after I got the wheels aligned.
I have not decided whom to believe. Especially since I am working,ever so slowly, on the front end*.
So do let us know how it turns out with the rear suspension.
*Replacing the exhaust valves in the cylinder head, renewing head gasket, rebuilding the leaking steering rack, replacing all the bushings on the front suspension, rebuilding the front brake calipers, sanding and repainting the front coil springs and the anti-sway bar, new AC compressor and condenser (btw alibaba is your source for cheap automotive parts--I got a new AC compressor for ~$100), minor electrical stuff (J-gate lights, LCD clock, neutral switch) AND this stupid radiator hose.
As for your problem, usually camber is not adjustable ? only the toe, so maybe it is the toe ? did you jack the car up to check the control arm?
Jgate light is like the easiest thing ever! Lcd clock might be more challenging ( easier if u have another set of hands)
Last edited by FrozenApple; 08-03-2015 at 10:58 AM.
#10
08-03-2015, 07:58 PM
Veteran Member
rear camber is adjustable on the traditional Jaguar suspension including
the XJ40/X300. the control arm would have to take a huge smack to bend.
when toe-in is reduced at the rear, the tires will stand up just a tiny bit.
but, the real adjustment is done by installing spacers at the halfshaft to differential
output shaft joint.
most vehicles leave the factory with 4mm spacer.
the spacers are available in 3.5mm to 7.5mm thicknesses.
the effect is around 0.19* per 0.5mm added thiickness.
as tempting as it might be to stack spacers, it is not a good
practice due to the registration mechanism built into the
joint. unless you are willing to drill and rosette weld the
spacers into one unit.
search for threads in the X300/X308/X100 sections for further info.
there are also spring packers which can be installed at the top of
the spring to raise the ride height which will also reduce negative
camber.
the XJ40/X300. the control arm would have to take a huge smack to bend.
when toe-in is reduced at the rear, the tires will stand up just a tiny bit.
but, the real adjustment is done by installing spacers at the halfshaft to differential
output shaft joint.
most vehicles leave the factory with 4mm spacer.
the spacers are available in 3.5mm to 7.5mm thicknesses.
the effect is around 0.19* per 0.5mm added thiickness.
as tempting as it might be to stack spacers, it is not a good
practice due to the registration mechanism built into the
joint. unless you are willing to drill and rosette weld the
spacers into one unit.
search for threads in the X300/X308/X100 sections for further info.
there are also spring packers which can be installed at the top of
the spring to raise the ride height which will also reduce negative
camber.
The following users liked this post:
someguywithajag (08-06-2015)
#11
08-06-2015, 12:20 AM
well it was all rainbow and sunshine till few days ago when it started to clunk, feels like one lf thr bushings just fell off or something, clunks everytime when the road is uneven. I just cant take it anymore so i decided to get new shocks/bushings and new spring bushings. By the way how reliable is alibaba parts? lol isnt it full of chinese parts ? I might need an exhaust manifold since my had tiny cracks on them.
As for your problem, usually camber is not adjustable ? only the toe, so maybe it is the toe ? did you jack the car up to check the control arm?
Jgate light is like the easiest thing ever! Lcd clock might be more challenging ( easier if u have another set of hands)
As for your problem, usually camber is not adjustable ? only the toe, so maybe it is the toe ? did you jack the car up to check the control arm?
Jgate light is like the easiest thing ever! Lcd clock might be more challenging ( easier if u have another set of hands)
Camber is adjustable on XJR so that's why I was suspicious when the mechanic told me to install new parts. No I have not jacked up the car to check the control arms yet; I hope to solve this problem before winter
I have a question about the J-gate lights; which bulbs do they take? I searched the forums and the it seems that the bulbs required are from Radioshack (no. 272-1154, 12v, 50 mA) but Radioshack isn't around anymore. Where can I find a replacement?
#12
08-06-2015, 12:23 AM
rear camber is adjustable on the traditional Jaguar suspension including
the XJ40/X300. the control arm would have to take a huge smack to bend.
when toe-in is reduced at the rear, the tires will stand up just a tiny bit.
but, the real adjustment is done by installing spacers at the halfshaft to differential
output shaft joint.
most vehicles leave the factory with 4mm spacer.
the spacers are available in 3.5mm to 7.5mm thicknesses.
the effect is around 0.19* per 0.5mm added thiickness.
as tempting as it might be to stack spacers, it is not a good
practice due to the registration mechanism built into the
joint. unless you are willing to drill and rosette weld the
spacers into one unit.
search for threads in the X300/X308/X100 sections for further info.
there are also spring packers which can be installed at the top of
the spring to raise the ride height which will also reduce negative
camber.
the XJ40/X300. the control arm would have to take a huge smack to bend.
when toe-in is reduced at the rear, the tires will stand up just a tiny bit.
but, the real adjustment is done by installing spacers at the halfshaft to differential
output shaft joint.
most vehicles leave the factory with 4mm spacer.
the spacers are available in 3.5mm to 7.5mm thicknesses.
the effect is around 0.19* per 0.5mm added thiickness.
as tempting as it might be to stack spacers, it is not a good
practice due to the registration mechanism built into the
joint. unless you are willing to drill and rosette weld the
spacers into one unit.
search for threads in the X300/X308/X100 sections for further info.
there are also spring packers which can be installed at the top of
the spring to raise the ride height which will also reduce negative
camber.
I just had a gut feeling that replacing the entire rear suspension may not be the wisest course of action to take.
I will surely search for these relevant threads. Thanks again
#13
08-06-2015, 12:51 AM
As for alibaba, yes it is filled--more than half at least--with Chinese part suppliers. But I had no choice Jaguar wanted, last I recall (it is no longer available for purchase on their heritage website), 595 pound sterling or so. Which equated to almost $1,200.
I thought that was an absurd amount. And not wanting to place my trust in a used compressor (even the cheapest used one was about $300).
So I went with alibaba, can't beat $100 for a new compressor. I figure if it fails I can still replace it at least 12 times before going to the dealer
No idea about the exhaust manifold though...
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