Previous owner had the starter jumped to a push button to start the car because the key, when turned to the start position, will not engage the starter.

I have tried most of the ideas I could find in the forums and have narrowed the problem to the Body Processor Module. The output from the BPM to the rotary switch doesn't ground out when in key is turned to the start position III. The input to the BPM from the ignition switch does ground when in position III so that checks.

I switched the BPM only to have the same result so I started checking the other inputs that control engine cranking in the BPM.

Power in from fuse checks.
Both grounds check.
Input from the Decoder Module seems to check but the inactive voltage is only 6.5v but does ground out when key switches to position III.
Same for input from Engine Control Module, inactive voltage is only 6.5v but does ground out when key switches to position III.

The only input I'm not sure about is from the Security and Locking Control Module. Electrical Guide says the input would be encoded. I'm showing a constant 11.5v from SCM in all key positions so not sure what it's supposed to be coming into BPM from SCM.

Is there a way to bypass the SCM and fool the BPM to allow cranking or should I just bypass the BPM and jump the ignition switch to the starting relay?

The previous owner did not provide the key fob, only one key. Not sure if that can have anything to do with the SCM.

Would like to start the car with the key and not the push button that jumps right to the starter.

Thanks

 

Keeping it simple, as I am simple.

The electrical section of the ignition switch is well documented as an issue with ALL the earlier cars, and it is age related.

This is now in that age bracket, and switch issues are starting to rise.

Look at the gearlever surround, is the P lit up Red when the ignition is ON. If it is not, then the neutral start circuits are not active, and it will not activate the starter. That is controlled by the switch pack mounted on the RH side of the J Gate housing, and is well documented to fill up with crud, coke (drink that is) hair clips, etc. Remove it and clean it, reset it (it is adjustable a SMALL amount), and ensure that the P lights up.

 

Yes. P lights up. Problem appears to be BPM not receiving input it needs to provide output of grounded voltage to trigger start in key position III.

 

Jumped around body processor unit (after swapping out with a different one with no change in problem) directly to starting relay so now the car starts with the key.

Having other odd electrical issues so thinking about swapping out the security ECU to see if it cures issues.

What re programming will I need to do to if I do this swap? I don't have a key fob for the car.
Thanks

 

I believe the SLCM is programmable and will have to be set up with dealer level software, which many indy's have.

I bought a SAAB remote on ebay for $20. I think almost any 315 Mhz remote will work. But considering the problem you are having this may not be a good time to try.