When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Those manifold studs at the end of the list were impossible to remove, just have them on hand, you might not need them, but good luck finding a replacement if you need them.
I can't recall why I ordered the 14 Locknuts, they might be single use too? I know the 4 were.
I did not have any problems with the studs on the engine that the manifold bolts on to. (JZC100029 x14)
I also did not have any issues with the two studs at the EGR flange, however, I was lucky. I might recommend you get these. (TE108041J x2)
Make sure you have an assortment of wobble ratchet extenders. I needed all the ones I had to reach nuts and bolts from below the car.
By the way, I drive an XJS so please double check the parts on JDHT to make sure they work for you too! They should, but there might be some random change...
Well its not a great update but here it goes. I got the exhaust all put back together and sealed up*. Soaked a lot of the cast parts in evaporust and then painted them with high temp silver grill paint. Good to 1200F, unsure about chemical resistance, but time will tell. There was a large obvious leak at the rear manifold to the head. I put new gaskets on both manifolds, the downpipe, and all EGR ports. ...And it leaks like a sieve. Still ran terribly in that state. I also tried switching over to a different set of coil packs which did nothing. I really don't want to do the exhaust a second time. At this point I'm fresh out of ideas and patience, I had it towed to a repair shop. I'm now nervously awaiting the diagnosis and bill(!). I had to call about 8-10 shops to find a specialist that would actually take it. Quite a lot of "specialists" around here that... aren't.
The downpipe donut gasket seal / seat / flair can get deformed on bringing the downpipe up and the 4 down pointing studs interfering / damaging
On mine I cut the webbing between the 2 downpipes and wedged between them to spread apart
With a ELM - 327 reading device you can read the ECU computed fuel thrim / mixture , target 0.0 % but + or - 3 % realistic limitations
A leak in the exhaust manifold or vacuum system leak will make the engine run rich maybe explaining the spot of stumble under the bonnet
The ignition would be another variable of consideration
The ELM - 327 will also show the EGR valve position agreement as EGR_ERROR parameter ID ( PID ) , target 0 %
But no IAC valve position or agreement , no valve position sensor like on the EGR valve
Which leaves smog pump ( pump has a solenoid check valve in it and external capacitor in the wire pigtail ) and valve on the supercharged right side of block , whole thing operated by the secondary air relay ( large # 4 right ) and fuse # 7 / 25 amp right engine bay fuse box
The face of the fwd crankshaft position sensor clean ? different than connector clean
Rochestor valve in fuel EVAP consideration ? Rochester not on all X300 models
So the shop called back with some good(I think) news. My exhaust leak at the donuts was just because I hadn't tightened them in all the way. I felt like I was going to strip something, but whatever. Easy fix there! They did a compression check, all good, no bore wash for me. I also have proper fuel pressure so I've dodge that bullet. A couple of big ticket items that I don't have to worry about now.
What they did find was my coils were swapped, but that didn't help very much. That's why I was unable to tell by myself. One of my EGR flexy pipes is leaking, and they're also on backwards. What's odd to me is that I did take pictures to reference when putting it all back together... I think they've been backwards the whole time? Hopefully that's pretty minor though.
The crank position sensor is clean, I've had it in and out a bunch now. I put a new Rochester valve in the back already to fix a tank pressure issue. Secondary air pump seems to be working fine, it makes the right sort of noise.
Side note, they truly hate my brake upgrade XD. So I've got a bunch more fiddling to do there. I may put it back to stock, since right now I just want to drive the dang car.
I had to call about 8-10 shops to find a specialist that would actually take it. Quite a lot of "specialists" around here that... aren't.
gotta find those old school mechanics.
too many mechanics now have never worked on older cars and never want to work on anything they don't know.
they don't want to fault find and diagnose.
they wanna plug a computer in, have it tell them what is wrong and then just replace parts.
older cars they gotta diagnose, then fluff around with parts that don't wanna come off, then they gotta actually repair parts....
from what i have found is whenever i ring a shop and tell them 1995 jaguar they say "nah sorry we don't do those here"
but, i find some shop run by some old ******* who has been doing this for the last 100 years he is always happy to look.
I have the car back from the shop now, runs like a top. So smooth its like its turned off. As soon as I got it home I put it back up on jacks to look at the brakes some more... I will be moving back to my other thread on the brakes since this is resolved.
TL;DR for anybody reading in the future: EGR flexible pipe was leaking badly, exhaust manifolds were warped and leaking, 2 coils were swapped but I couldn't tell because the EGR leak was so bad.
Great results and thanks so much for reporting back! You must have found a top notch shop too after reading all the disasters people have with repair shops including Jaguar dealers.
Might even be worth posting who did the work? We complain about bad stuff all the time but we don't often compliment people and companies who perform well.
.
.
.
