Symptoms as above - battery was disconnect wednesday through friday as something was draining it (I think this was down to sticking ignition switch as radio stayed on when key removed), reconnected battery, nothing.

Tried to jump start car, got dash lights but no crank at all and no interior lights - check engine, oil, airbag and bulb failure lights remained lit - radio doesn't switch on (but aerial goes up and down!), boot lock light remains illuminated but when hit sunroof moves

Brand new battery fitted an hour ago to see if the immobilizer has somehow gone out of sync, but I'm not holding much hope

My thinking is it's the body processor module - anyone have any theories / thoughts?

Thanks

nibbs

 

Starting with the simple things first, I would investigate the battery connections, terminals and especially the negative earth strap.

It seems that your problem arose after you "disturbed" the battery and maybe you have a bad connection, delivering enough power to illuminate certain things, but not enough to crank the engine.

The dash lights staying on would sometimes be described as the "Christmas Tree" effect (quite timely) and is symptomatic of a bad battery. However, as you've replaced yours, then the connections would be a possible culprit.

Hope this helps.

 

Disconnection was via battery 'kill switch' that you just unscrew to disconnect so less sure about earth issue

 

Sorted - body processor module it was - slotted in, battery reconnected, boot lights came on, oh, that's a good sign, turned ignition and up she fired

Just have to reassemble underside of dash and (hopefully) just reprogram key fobs as they seeem to have lost connection as no central locking

Thanks folks

chris

 

Glad you got it sorted.

 

It would probably be helpful if more people came back to announce their issues were resolved as we could all learn from them

As is, whilst car starting and most functions restored, there are still a couple of issues needing resolved - central locking button in centre of dash remaining illuminated (the one to unlock the boot from inside) and central locking / security system not working - can't even reprogram key fobs as no bleeps when rocking valet switch, no bleeps when locking/unlocking car manually, no response from centre button on boot etc

Could be as little as a fuse somewhere but way too cold to hunt down yesterday so hope to get look this weekend - worst case may be security module but will do normal diagnostics first

Anyone ever built a self contained relay tester? I think it may speed things up slightly over the years - relay socket to plug them into, 9v battery, push switch to apply voltage and bulb or led to indicate continuity - all built into small box - seems quicker than applying various crocodile clips and multimeter leads

Will keep you updated how locking/security issue shakes out

And thanks sogood - appreciated

chris