No Starting Motor
Hi Folks, we have another thread here that we're still in the midst of working out and then this happened. When the key is turned you can hear the solenoid clunk (engage) and then when the key is released it disengages. But no starting motor. The battery was replaced 12/2020 and shows 12.13V as it sits. I have put jumper cables onto the battery and let the other car charge it for 20 minutes with no change in outcome. To me it sounds like a bad starting motor, or solenoid. I thought I would check here if there might be something else, like a blown fuse (although a big one)? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Bobby
Thanks,
Bobby
Hi Bobby,
The only fuses in the starter motor circuit are the two 250A megafuses near the battery. Since you can hear the starter solenoid click, your starter relay is probably working. Aside from the starter motor itself, one possibility is corrosion on the engine ground strap, which can add considerable resistance to the circuit and cause a significant voltage drop. If I recall correctly the ground strap connects to a starter bolt at one end and to the body at the other end. Disconnect both ends and clean them with a wire brush and electronic contact cleaner and do the same at the points where the cable mounts and the bolts and washers that secure the cable ends.
Cheers,
Don
The only fuses in the starter motor circuit are the two 250A megafuses near the battery. Since you can hear the starter solenoid click, your starter relay is probably working. Aside from the starter motor itself, one possibility is corrosion on the engine ground strap, which can add considerable resistance to the circuit and cause a significant voltage drop. If I recall correctly the ground strap connects to a starter bolt at one end and to the body at the other end. Disconnect both ends and clean them with a wire brush and electronic contact cleaner and do the same at the points where the cable mounts and the bolts and washers that secure the cable ends.
Cheers,
Don
Thanks Don, We're going to check that right now. When we had the intake manifold out I eyeballed the starter motor and took note that there are two bolts. One on top and one on the bottom. The bottom should be no issue, but the top looked like it was a problem because access was from the top of the transmission. Is it possible to get to the top bolt with a swivel socket? Or does the motor/transmission need to be dropped a bit to get at it?
Thanks,
Bobby
Thanks,
Bobby
It seems to vary from car to car, but in general it is easier to access that upper starter bolt by supporting the transmission pan, removing the rear engine mount/transmission mount, then carefully lowering the jack to allow the engine to tilt downward at the rear.
As Don said check the earth strap. But also check the +ve cable. It comes through the bulkhead and the connection is prone to corrosion.
You should test the voltage (during cranking) at the starter as well as at the battery. A difference between what you see at the battery and what you see at the starter indicates degraded connection somewhere.
As a diagnostic step, if you can, connect your jumper cables directly to engine (ground) and ideally starter solenoid (+ve) or bulkhead terminal if easier access.
You should test the voltage (during cranking) at the starter as well as at the battery. A difference between what you see at the battery and what you see at the starter indicates degraded connection somewhere.
As a diagnostic step, if you can, connect your jumper cables directly to engine (ground) and ideally starter solenoid (+ve) or bulkhead terminal if easier access.
Once again thanks to all. We checked the ground straps on both sides of the engine. Cleaned and tightened. Ended up replacing the starter motor. Had to drop the transmission down a couple inches. Along with moving the intake manifold out of the way. Was a success.
Bobby
Bobby
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