The bump method is not dependent on the belts being on but I see your relation to holding the HB from spinning
The HB I think has a D key in the crankshaft so the HB will spin with the starter bump
There was a rebuild shop up in Washington state or maybe Oregan , for lower shipping cost
The leveraging a long torque bar against something would scare me unless firmly in place including socket well on bolt head stripping , deformed to where it can't be bit
Jaguars with Denso engine management systems (X100/X308 and later) use NGK spark plugs from the factory. NGK is probably the largest spark plug OEM in the world today, so their plugs are excellent.
But in the Jaguar AJ6 and AJ16 engines, I have found over the years that the original cheap copper Champions seem to work as well as or better than anything else. For the normally-aspirated AJ16 it's the Champion RC12YC, a.k.a. Champion 71. These are the nearest currently available equivalent to the "double copper" plugs used by the Jaguar engineers while designing the AJ16 engine. The current price at Rock Auto is $1.66 each plus tax and shipping. They're so cheap that I keep an extra set or two on hand.
There's really no way to know if the newer precious-metal plugs operate optimally with these older, tired ignition systems, and in my experience there's no reason to spend the extra money. Vee is right that if you use NGKs, use the basic copper ones.
Notice the change to a wider gap in the couple TSBs as this would increase the air gap resistance and decrease the current and importantly heat through the coils for longer life
If the coils are aging and on the way out , the gap can be brought in to maintain an amount of sufficient spark
Just my take
The exotics are a higher resistance plug that the coils even though they are a very high 35, 000 volts vs. 30.000 volts are not what the engine is matched for , this may have to do with high compression as well as this effects plug gap resistance with a complex formula named after someone
I was able to get the harmonic balancer off yesterday. I'm sure it is causing some of the issues. I could spin freely the middle belt pulley when I got it off. Did not use the bump method. I went out and purchased
, and within 5 seconds, came to right off. However, it is very tight with the radiator, so as soon as it breaks loose, you do the rest by hand because you will start moving into your radiator.
Was that 33 or 34 MM as I was never sure to get good fit to lessen the chance of damaging the hex head if removed , only spun my crank but never tried to remove for harmonic balancer task
The important part is the high torque value on installation , and ensuring it is at least
It was 34. However, can anyone tell me how to keep the balancer from moving while you are torquing it down? I think I saw somewhere not to us a crankshaft pulley
The Workshop Manual instructs the use of the Front Crankshaft Pulley Lock tool 18G 1437 both to remove and torque the damper bolt:
I made a crank holding tool from a long piece of bar steel about 2-1/2" wide and 3/8" thick by cutting a semicircle into an edge at one end, then drilling holes on either side of the semicircle cutout to line up with two crank pulley bolts. The bar will wedge against the subframe/crossmember to provide the resistance necessary to torque the damper bolt to 183 Nm - 223 Nm (135 ft. lbs. - 165 ft. lbs.).
I use a short piece of wood between my crank holding tool and the subframe/crossmember/engine mount to protect the anti-corrosion finish.
I have actually measured with a thread gauge the AJ16 front pulley bolt and it is 3/4" x 16 SAE bolt and requires a 1 & 5/16" spanner, the closest being 33mm which is actually 0.013mm smaller.
Another jaguar anomaly, despite the X300 being predominantly metric the front crankshaft bolt is in fact the same size as the XK engine.
Well, I thought I had it fixed. However, I still have the P0300, but now, instead of the P1313, I now have the P1314. The car ran great for a few days, then the check engine light came on this morning. Here are the things I changed out.
1. Changed out all the plugs to the original Champion
2. Changed out all the coil ends
3. Put in new O2 sensors.
4. Changed out the harmonic Balancer
5. Changed out to the Andy bracket and replaced the sensor at the same time
6. Changed out other things
A. water Pump
B. Rack
C. Belts
D. Shocks
I guess my next step is to inspect the coil wires, as was said earlier, because everything else is pretty new.
So I know that 1313 is bank one and 1314 is bank 2. I am wondering if this could be both on the upstream O2 sensors. Interestingly, I changed the manifolds and pulled the upstream O2 sensors out to include the connection. Put them aside, then reinstalled them. If they are both upstream, and I was getting 1313 before, and now I am getting 1314, I wonder if I have a bad O2 sensor, and now it is in the other bank.
Yeah, I made sure that that was the case, and they are correct. Since I pulled them out and I had 1313 before and now have 1314, I am wondering if I have a bad O2 since they may have been put into different banks after I removed them
1. Pulled upper bank O2 sensors.
2. Disconnected them from the car
3. Put on table
4. took off table and hooked them into the proper connector and put them in the proper "hole". (did they go into the same "hole" and same connector. In other words, did the one that I pulled out of Bank 1 go back into Bank 2 and now the bad 02 is in the other bank)
I know they are connected properly based on your image.
I sourced a 12 mm crush washer from a cheap 12 mm sparkplug , Ford Autolite copper of a certain #
I got an inkling from someone in Boston that the washers make a difference in O2 sensor reading although it doesn't need a ground path like a spark plug
