re static timing on I6 S/C XJR
#1
10-12-2012, 06:58 AM
re static timing on I6 S/C XJR
I took my car in for some work and a service one of the things my mechanic spotted was the front seal behind the harmonic balancer was leaking
When he tried to remove the harmonic balancer he couldn't get it of took quite a while when he finally got it of the key was bent like and the bolt was badly damaged he surmised that the bolt holding the balancer must have come loose at some stage and has just been re tightened
My mechanic replaced the key new seal and sleeve and new bolt and washer then correct torque settings
After driving it home about 120 k,s I noticed it seemed to idle a bit high so I disconnected the battery overnight and allowed the ECU to reset it seems to be going better
I was curious the sensor on the engine that sits where the distributor would normally sit looks like it has been moved can I statically reset this sensor or just leave it as it is the car goes great
As it gets older and more k,s on the clock the car seems to get better go figure
When he tried to remove the harmonic balancer he couldn't get it of took quite a while when he finally got it of the key was bent like and the bolt was badly damaged he surmised that the bolt holding the balancer must have come loose at some stage and has just been re tightened
My mechanic replaced the key new seal and sleeve and new bolt and washer then correct torque settings
After driving it home about 120 k,s I noticed it seemed to idle a bit high so I disconnected the battery overnight and allowed the ECU to reset it seems to be going better
I was curious the sensor on the engine that sits where the distributor would normally sit looks like it has been moved can I statically reset this sensor or just leave it as it is the car goes great
As it gets older and more k,s on the clock the car seems to get better go figure
#2
10-12-2012, 07:56 AM
Doc,
My simple way on the AJ16 engine is:
Rotate the engine by hand until on the COMPRESSION stroke (so #1 plug out maybe), or look thru the oil fill cap, and #4 inlet lobes point skyward will do, and when the "gap" in the teeth (missing tooth) of the timing wheel behind the front pulley is lined up with the CAS (crank angle sensor), that is deemed "timed".
Now the little indent in the tin wheel under the cover of the "whizzy thing" should be in the viewing window, IF NOT, that sensor is NOT timed, so simple move that sensor until that is set correctly. DO NOT rotate the engine to do so. Sometimes it will need lifting so a new tooth engagement can be done to achieve this setting.
The crank angle sensor is the prime timing sensor, and is NON adjustable, being factory set by teh crank key, and the cast position of the sensor mounting bracket.
The "whizzy thing" is the cam angle sensor and triggers the sequential injection timing. The engine will run if it is mis-timed, the management system is that clever, but starting can be drawn out.
Hope that helps a tad.
My simple way on the AJ16 engine is:
Rotate the engine by hand until on the COMPRESSION stroke (so #1 plug out maybe), or look thru the oil fill cap, and #4 inlet lobes point skyward will do, and when the "gap" in the teeth (missing tooth) of the timing wheel behind the front pulley is lined up with the CAS (crank angle sensor), that is deemed "timed".
Now the little indent in the tin wheel under the cover of the "whizzy thing" should be in the viewing window, IF NOT, that sensor is NOT timed, so simple move that sensor until that is set correctly. DO NOT rotate the engine to do so. Sometimes it will need lifting so a new tooth engagement can be done to achieve this setting.
The crank angle sensor is the prime timing sensor, and is NON adjustable, being factory set by teh crank key, and the cast position of the sensor mounting bracket.
The "whizzy thing" is the cam angle sensor and triggers the sequential injection timing. The engine will run if it is mis-timed, the management system is that clever, but starting can be drawn out.
Hope that helps a tad.
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XJRengineer (10-13-2012)
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