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The Cam position sensor other then the CKPS is surprisingly avail. at the local parts store . They have to bring it in from their warehouse so it takes a day or two . The one I received was missing the o - ring as it goes into the block and the window was not very clear . So inspect yours before turning in the core . I had the P0340 code before and in trying the rebuilt CMPS there was no change in starting performance so I was able to turn it back in , through the mail would be harder to return being a electrical device .
My P0340 code disappeared . Maybe the PO removed the connector while running the engine or my connector cleaning .
That being said , from my understanding the CMPS is ignored once the CKPS sensor takes over in the starting sequence . Those who know more then I do say it does not . But in the ignored phase of operation it should not be looked at by the ECU as your spot of stumble fault accures
Sence you have pretty much followed a logic path in how the engine regulates there are 2 things more experienced people have run across other then your ECU connectors sockets inspection . The sockets have 2 locking humps on each side that must be released at the same time so takes a special 2 pronged tool . # TOL - 019
The main engine block to frame ground strap from the started mounting bolt . Best to get from the bottom side with a 13 mm and a 8 mm . From the top is impossible . You would need to sand the frame of any rust for a proper electrical bond .
Bad coils can induce a bad garbage signal ( dirty electricity as more then one type or signals can exist in the same wire at the same time ) of into other wires causing other regulation devices or sensors to go nuts and not work properly .
The alternator noise suppressor takes the somewhat smooth and flat DC power out of the alternator rectifier stage and make it a more pure flat DC power . A test for this would be a whirling sound in your stereo on a AM station that goes up and down in frequecy pitch with engine RPM . This is another example of dirty electricity .
There are reports of a dirty on the transmission connector stalling the engine during shifts as the transmission and engine ECU talk to each other . There is also the transmission linear switch on the top side next to the shift handle shaft .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 06-06-2018 at 08:53 PM.
Thought Id give an update of what ive been doing. Decided to tackle the AC by fitting a 2nd hand compressor and a new condenser, as they arent particularly expensive. First mistake was using a 12 point on the lower mounting bolts, which are very tight due to exposure from road grit and the like. Besides the access being hopeless for the rear lower bolt, where the subframe is 2" below it, the bolt was well and truly stuck so ended up taking it to an independant to have the bolt removed so I could continue. Was under the weather when the car went in, so I decided to treat myself and paid them to put the new parts in. Condenser disintergrated when removed, all the fins fell out, and the U bend on the line which connects to the condenser (low pressure?) also disintergrated, so new line bought at £175. Hose arrived and I fitted it with a bit of fiddling, the line is very tight getting round all the bends! Started to put the last hose on, which connects the drier to the compressor, and the nut wasnt tightening properly, upon inspection there was a shard of metal stuck in the threads, which I couldnt remove with various methods. Irritated, I ordered a replacement at £55. It arrived and fitted without issue. Got the system topped up for £40 and its still running well, so fingers crossed I get more than 4 weeks of use out of 1Kg of refridgerant!
Had a throttle plate binding issue when the car was sat overnight, was sticking closed. Purchased a feeler guage, as my throttle is pretty clean, so that I could reset the clearance to 0.002". The result was an idle of ~2000rpm despite fiddling with the IACV, so im not sure why that is the specified clearance. Started again and let the throttle plate go fully closed, then worked at half a turn intervals until the plate no longer stuck closed when snapping the throttle shut. Idle is now back to normal and throttle isnt sticking anymore. I couldnt see a locknut on the adjustment screw, and it was turning fairly easily, so Il look at a way to keep the screw from vibrating loose, which I feel is what led to the initial issues.
Need a quick answer on this one. UK is getting cold again for winter and my old parasitic BCM draw has cropped up again. with boot open, car unlocked draw is 0.83A, drops to 0.06A with the removal of fuse 5, in the boot/trunk, which is the fuse for the BCM. I’ve tried lubing the ignition barrel, but it’s not working (yet) and I don’t want to ruin the good battery I have in the car now, as its frequently dropping to 12V overnight (Quite amazed the jag starts with a nearly empty battery!). To put a band-aid on this for now whilst I investigate further, can fuse 5 be removed and the car locked and left with no issues? Obviously, I would reinstall the fuse when I need to drive somewhere, just an alternative to buying one of those versatile, yet pricey, CTEK trickle chargers.
Other then the 4 to 5 pin closing to car frame ground on the ignition switch , the 3 or 4 position sensors on the column and seat must give the correct retracted signal for the car to go to sleep after that time interval I can't remember .
Try the auto comfort position switch to off and cycle the key through the full rotary cycle giving it some time like a real driving day or shorter version
If you get results this would point to the sensors other then the possible intermittent ignition switch
Will get deeper where needed
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 12-10-2018 at 09:51 PM.
Well ive tried unplugging the ignition switch where it connects to the main loom and still have 0.8A draw. I should say im measuring the amp draw with the boot open, and I know this does draw a tiny bit of power, but with fuse 5 removed which runs the BCM, draw drops to 0.06A,. Can the car be locked securely with no power to the BCM? As removing the fuse will stop the battery drain for now while I diagnose further.
The car will mechanically lock and secure with the battery removed
It will even lock this way with your only key hanging in the ignition
Ask me how I know this
Good that you can measure the parasitic drain but it has to be looked at in a different way
It is not so much as all the current being drawn from the battery is going through the 4 to 5 pin on the ignition switch but your BPM and SLCU is still alive and not gone into the sleep mode
Before it can go to sleep it must be commanded to go through the sequence of seeing the steering column and seat retracted which you have movement . The variable resistance sensors on these devices must satisfy to a certain resistance value that they are retracted . This resistance value is different then the memory position value but that is not important in this instance
By turning the column switch from auto to off you eliminate the need to have these sensors come to agreement that they are retracted ( if you have a bad sensor )
The 4 to 5 pin switch to car frame ground will show some current but very little and may even be momentary to the point you may not see it with a test meter
The 5 pin could be corroded like and mine not providing a good enough ground or the # 5 wire car frame ground can be disturbed or corroded
The car side half of the connector lifts straight up from its mounting so you can bring it out to easier work with
Editing
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 12-15-2018 at 09:18 AM.
The BPM receives inputs from the boot lock and from the security/locking module. So by keeping the boot open and the car unlocked you could be forcing the BPM to stay alive and therefore the testing could be invalid.
For doing tests for a parasitic draw I think you should make sure everything is shut down as much as possible.
So use a screwdriver to operate the boot latch without closing it (i.e. screwdriver emulates the striker plate). The car will think the boot is closed. You can then lock the car in the normal way. Then measure the current draw. You will need to wait some time (not sure how long) and monitor the current over say 10-15 mins to see what happens.
Quick update, still got the battery drain, but its not as bad as before, seems the warmer temperatures are changing how severe the drain is, or causing the drain to happen less frequently. Going to invest in a meter clamp to track it down, will no doubt be useful for future electrical diagnosis. A friend of mine suggested that I look at the voltage difference between the battery earth and the engine strap ground ( I think), although I must confess it went over my head and im not really sure how a bad ground would cause a battery drain.
Main focus has been on smaller jobs such as boot switch, fuel gauge etc. Turns out my boot switch is the problem, as the wiring has been repaired previously to a decent standard. Noticed that the boot finisher trim is missing the end screws? and that is letting small amounts of water into the boot, needs fixing asap really. Ive attached some pictures although Im not sure how to remedy it as the jaguar parts diagram isnt clear on which part is which. There isnt any good used ones about so I need to try and fix this one, the switch I will buy and then swap the badge off the existing one I have so its the right colour.
As for battery drain we can break it down in 3 areas :
The ignition switch in the pic above in someones hand . The white button in the center of the slotted key ( not key in hand ) in the pic is the linear switch for key in hand in and key out , This starts the security module shutdown sequence so the car can go to sleep otherwise the car stays alive draining the battery . This is pin 4 to 5 and 5 is a car frame ground . By providing 4 a ground it;s a signal to the SLCU to began the shutdown sequence of looking if your seat and column have retracted ( if auto switch selected ) . This provided ground is not a souse of a battery drain at this specific point but a control for the SLCU system to stay alive and not begain to go to sleep
Auto seat and steering column retract when removing the key , this requires the position sensors to agree that they are retracted before the car can go to sleep , The large knob on the side of the steering column can be rotated to off to eliminate this as a test
The rotational part of this switch that opens and closes the king relays on the 5 points of the car , one of the king relays can be getting stuck closed draining the battery or the ignition switch can be stuck commanding the relays to stay closed and draining the battery , A test would be to remove the king relays in each of the corners of the 5 fuse boxes ,. In the pic below this is represented by the drawn in blue boxes but I didn't draw in the king relays as this would complicate the drawing
Editing
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-24-2019 at 11:19 AM.
Reason: re the
The part I am referring to is the boot finisher, which sits above the licence plate, and the boot switch sits inside this trim. Its bolted to the boot lid by six bolts, however, one the far left I have one missing and the one on the far right has sheared. Interestingly they seem to be made of plastic on the inside. Ive previously looked at the assembly you linked to, and unfortunately it only illustrates 10 of the 18 parts listed. the nuts which thread over the six bolts are illustrated as part 6, so im thinking perhaps the "bolts" are part of the boot finisher itself and therefore not replaceable if they break. I need to take it off again and have a more detailed look at it. Ive illustrated the picture I posted previously. Il look over your electrical diagram in more detail and get back to you.
06-06-2018, 06:42 PM
