It could be the security system. But let's check some more basics and work through it methodically.

- Check the inertia switch hasn't been triggered
- Does the Check Engine Light stay on when when all the other "Ignition On" lights go out (it needs to)
- Have you tried with Trans in "P" and "N"
- Are there any other components not working or is it just the cranking?
- Can you swap the starter relay with another one (e.g. the wiper fast relay)
- Can you check the power and ground at the starter relay
- Can you feel the starter relay click when you try to start (put you finger on it while someone tries to start the engine)


Let us know and we can go in deeper

 

It could be as simple as not having plugged the interior alarm sensors back in correctly ,it does however sound to me like a dead battery issue,I had this the other week and bought the biggest battery that would fit and fitted a solar trickle charger which lays on my parcel shelf and wired into battery permanently,no more issues here now 👌🏻

funnily enough my battery started going wrong just after I replaced my headlining also 🤔

possibly having doors open all that time and interior lights on didn’t help ...

 

So, I decided to have my battery tested at Halfords, my friendly motor parts supplier. It tested OK! That was good news but, I decided to buy a bigger battery at 720amp. My old one was 640amps. New battery fitted Absolutely no change. So I have eliminated one potential source of the problem at a cost of Ł122. So now I will look at the relays etc as suggested by Brendan and xalty if I can find them. Alec G.

 

The check engine light extinguished together with most of the others. The exceptions are the oil pressure lamp and the battery lamp which is, I suppose, the ignition lamp. I swapped over the relays, starter motor for high speed wipers and no change. The high speed wipers still work with the relay that was in the starter motor position.Other systems that are in-operative include all the interior lights ie neither the door courtesy nor the overhead console nor the sun visor mirror lamps.

 

I have had another pole about behind the roof mounted lamp console. There are a number of electrical connectors. I have a black one that goes to the lamp console itself. There is a small blue one that is not connected and there are two larger white one that are retained in the roof that are not connected. Could these be my problem? I do not recall disconnecting them and cannot see where they could connect. Alec G.

 

The blue one I believe is for an electro chromatic mirror which was optional ,everything else should be connected

 

I am still testing. I cannot feel anything at the starter relay when attempting to start, and it will not start in park or neutral. AG.

 

One of those plugs may be the sunroof plug ,but I though one was for the interior sensors ,if so it won’t start without them plugged in as your immobiliser will sense a problem ,I would presume 🤔

damned things lol

 

So as a test I just unplugged everything in the roof console on my car. It still cranks and the central locking and alarm still work.


What is the status of the little red light on your Console Door Locking button? If it is on solid then that indicates a problem with the Security/Locking module (if it's not on that doesn't mean there isn't a problem).

Does the locking and alarm system work now? With key or fob or console switch?

 

You want one of these:
I've got the exact one and it's bloody brilliant. Left it on the car all winter, and she started perfectly.

 

I don't quite know what you mean "red button on console locking button" The console door is/was locked with a turnbuckle lock, which I have broken but there is no red light! The car can be locked using the fob or key but will not double lock or go to the third lights on stage.

 

On the dash near the clock is a Button with a key on it ,that button has a red light in it ,that’s what he means 🔑

 

check engine light needs to stay ON with the ignition cycled

 

The plot thickens. Today, I decided to do some checks on the fuses. I thought the more pertinent ones were the starter solenoid, the engine control module, the deadlocking, the key switch solenoid, the interior lighting switch/interior lamps/luggage compartment lams(the latter have not been operative since I bought the vehicle many moons ago) and the security system. I found that fuse F8 in the rear heel board was blown which protects the interior lamps etc. I ALSO DISCOVERED THAT THE VOLTAGE ON MY BRAND NEW BATTERY WAS BELOW 12 VOLT, 11.6 IF I REMEMBER. This has serious implications. I have removed the battery and put it back on charge. So now I am not happy with the electrical wiring/connections. I could leave that fuse out for the time being and continue with trying to get the vehicle running which means stripping out the headlining again and checking the electrical connections. I am still not certain what all the electrical connections behind the central overhead console do or what function they potentially have. Alec G.

 

These are mainly interior lighting alarm roof sensors electric sunroof wiring and electro chromatic mirror plug ,I have already let you know this but as you seem happy to talk to yourself without a knowledge for anybody’s input then y’all have fun 👌🏻

 

Sorry if you think I am not taking notice of everyone that is contributing, I am obviously doing plenty of checks. As I said earlier, I intend to remove the headlining again to see if there is any issue I can identify with the wiring. I will pay particular attention to the intrusion sensors!! Alec G.As one of my latest checks, having found the blown fuse for the interior lights, I replaced it and it blew again. Headlining needs to come out again and check the rear courtesy lamps. AG.

 

It looks to me then like you have a dead short in the headlining area re interior lights ,this could atop your car starting by draining the battery ,should be an easy spot ,no need to remove head liner just drop it onto folded down seats and check wiring

 

No1 job for the day. I have already checked the rear courtesy lamps - all appears OK. now for the headlining!

 

EURIKA. I began by stripping out the overhead console, then the driver's side sun visor which seemed to have a fair amount of insulation tape over some wires! Then I stripped out the passenger's side sun visor - there it was! Two faults. First I noticed that the wires appeared to be squashed, then a saw a tiny amount of naked wire, then I saw a screw hole that had gone into the wire connector. So now I was getting hopeful, Brendan(b1mcp) (I was presented with an MCP tie many years ago!) had said that he had started his car with all the overhead plugs unplugged, so I tried it and sure enough the car fired up straight away. I was a happy person!! So put it all back together again taking great care that no wired get trapped. Now this was not easy since you are working somewhat unsighted. Then I replace the fuse 8 in the heel kick panel and the interior lights now work again, and the security system is operative. MANY, MANY THANKS TO ALL YOU FOLKS OUT THERE, We got there finally. Alec Gurney.

 

im not often wrong ,glad you’re sorted now 💪🏽