So I go to lunch and upon starting I notice ABS and TRAC dash warning lights on. Something to look at after lunch. Driving and trans is not shifting normal and spedo stopped working would not be getting signal.. I thought it was very odd that the ABS and TRAC both came on at the same time, the spedo is a result of The ABS or TRAC. Well I checked all fuses and all are good, next are the relays. FSM is difficult for me as I am used to paper manuals. I do have the JDHT CD for the X300 1995-7. What would cause the ABS and TRAC to both lose power? Been a very frustrating day not thinking strait. For all of you who cannot read my mind my problem is with my 1995 X300 XJ6. Back to the FSM. Thanks ahead.

 

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to X300 forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model.

Graham

 

The Left Rear ABS Sensor provides the speed signal for the car. Failure of that component and/or the wiring to it is not uncommon and will cause all of the symptoms you describe.

First try to clean the sensor and the associated cog. That may do the trick. Also check the wiring from the sensor under the car and also under the rear seat where the sensor connects to the loom.

 

Start with the left rear sensor as has been mentioned. In a strange but true turn of events, my trac and abs lights used to come on intermittently, often with weeks between occurrences.Did all the usual checks to no avail. Finally spotted it only happened when someone was sitting in the left hand rear seat. Turned out the connector from the wheel speed sensor to the loom was right under the seat springs and was being forced apart slightly. I should say my speedo always worked, but that was probably just a reflection of how marginally the wires were being forced apart. Given the lengths of the connector and the loom, it was surprisingly difficult to re route them, so ended up bending the spring frame slightly, problem solved.
There is another common ABS fault related to a dry solder joint in the ABS control unit. It is written up in here somewhere, and puts the trac and ABS lights on, but I have not heard of it causing the speedo not to work.
Hope this helps

 

Suggest spray the sensor located on top of the hub with some penetrating oil and let soak for a while . You can remove them without jacking up the car . They are plastic and will break if you try to hard . been there , done that . Left it alone on mine for I have higher priorities . I still haven't myself figured out how to get the stuck one out . There will be some guk on them that cloud over the signal . If you want to put a meter on them before you possibly break one to see if one is out of range ( 1300 ohms if I remember ) you can unbolt the module connector and read socket pairs 5-6 LF 7-8 RF 9-10 LR 11-12 RR but the generated signal it makes is pulsed shape you can't see without spinning . This will not test for clouded signal but it may provide positive proof if the sensor is open wiring . Read somewhere on this Forum that the replacement part that rights do not work on left and there was a part # change somewhere mid - production . And yes there is something on this forum about the ABS soldered joint repair going bad and the cheap and easy repair . And if there was an issue with the left ( or all ) dirty sensors the ABS / TRAC may resolve itself for they are interrelated with each other .

 

Relays are good. I m now jacking up LR to clean sensor and will probably do all 4. Have not had a problem like this before. Driving Jags for 30 + years. Car is immaculate on underside and was driven in the wet for 2-3 times in its life. Everything I have done on it has been easy with no stuck fasteners. Biggest problem is the Nevada SUN. I'm buying stock in LEXOL. Thanks all, will keep updating as I progress?

 

. If you know how to do a proper environmental waterproof splice you can swap the sensor without removing the rear seat , some for the salvage yard if you source the sensor from there . I'm not a fan of simple open butt splices .Thanks for the tip on Lexol . I have been using a cheap lanolin product that has other components that I don't trust with the leather

 

Only 113 F today but I did get all 4 sensors cleaned. Thanks to the diagram from Lady Penelope checked all sensors ; LR 1,308 RR 1.298 LF 1.199 RF 1.201. Started up and no change! Back to reading.

 

What I found on my Lady Penelope in cleaning up the engine bay is the insulation on the wiring on the bottom of the Traction Control Actuator was deteriorated and gone . I have not repaired it for I have other priorities . I am assuming I can drill out the tabs that lock the bottom disk on and resleeve the wiring with 2 layers of shrink tubing . Suggest just disconnect the 2 plugs for the actuator and see if the ABS works for some X300s do not have the Traction Control option . I also lubed the cable internally that sets on top incase it is dragging to much and the followup sensor does not see the commanded position in a reasonable amount of time . This senerio would only occur as the rear wheels would spin out so it was a preventive measure .

Thanks , Parker

 

Two things to note:

1. Bad Resistance reading means bad sensor, good resistance reading does NOT mean good sensor. The signal from the sensor needs to be measured either with a scope or with a diagnostic tool capable of displaying individual wheel speed signals (e.g. IDS)


2. IIRC, an ABS fault will not clear after it has been fixed until the car is driven at a speed more than 12mph. So if you just started the car the fault would still be displayed even if it had been resolved.

 

Still checking, This morning The large black power to the ABS has no power. I am looking for that section in the FSM. Only 101 F so I cannot work for more than a few minutes. 95 X300

 

The 3 black wires are grounds , power comes through ABS module pin 1 , 2 , and 15 . Give me a couple of minutes for I have some documents I made some time ago covering this system . The RS3 connector is forward of the ECU going into the right wheel well . Mine was corroded . Ring out chart is for LHD . RHD different . See pins on this RS3 connector 10 ,18 , 19 , 20 , 26 , 27 , A , F , 8 , D , C , 32 , 12 , 29 , 31 . I'll get you a connector pin map later so you can see how to locate the pins . You can put a bread wrapper twisty or tywrap on the A wire ( RS3 = Brown / Slate ) . This helps keep track of it as you spin the connector around . Be careful with the hold over locking arm plastic pins . Bad if you break one . Patents . I case it was to migrate to the unlock position and lose pin contact you can plastic tywrap it closed . Recommended on the Security Module or your car won't start . I use a nylon brush to work in the leather conditioner down into the natural wrinkles and let it set for a couple of days to soften dirt . Come back with some more to wet it down as well as more scrubbing so pulls out the wrinkle dirt , found cheap brush at counter of auto parts store , the toothbrush was too small . Same for dash cover as the dirt stays in the uneven surface .

 

Get you the front face connector view map in the morning , the posted pic is from the Aft .

 

I thank you all so very much, but as of today my priorities changed; I am getting cold air from the foot vents and 120F. out the dash vents. Did the Denso self check and it gave me a 45 code. Cleared that and restarted and same code 45, so I am sure it is the center vent motor. Where is it located and how do I remove it to repair/replace? The A/C was working great until this happened. X300 95

 

See item 3

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...ir-ducts-facia

Check fuses in rear seat left heelboard # 12 , 18 for control . 10 amp

You can pull the motor . position the valve , secure arm , reinstall the motor , then remove the connector , right side forward of glove box .

Easier said then done . If you want to trick the wires and drive it to the desired position remove the CC28 connector from the A/C ECU and apply power to pins 7 and 20 . Listen for the motor . You'll have to cut one of the wires for it may want to drive back as you reconnect the connector . This only applies if the position sensor is bad and not the motor . 50 / 50 . But it will save you from digging it out today . Recommend disconnecting the battery when disconnecting any ECU . Can use a 9 volt battery or battery charger source . A different way can be used to trick the position sensor .

 

That is what I had in mind as I will not need heat for 4 months I had done similar on my 88 xj40, which was very easy to do.

 

I now have cleared code 45 but I now have code 43-cool air bypass motor.

 

Will tapping or banging it free it up ?

 

Moving the center vent freed up that problem but then code 43 came up. I wonder if I loosened something that dropped down and developed code 43. Definitely will try a bid hammer.

 

My next step is to open the ABS module and re-solder the power pins, I hope they need it as I am running out of options. One small step at a time.