Hi All


Having fitted a replacement cylinder head to get rid of poor running due to loss of compression, I was somewhat miffed to find that the car still stalls until fully hot. I thought this fault was connected to the loss of compression too, but oh no.


The car starts OK from cold, but cranks over more than I think it should before firing. It then drives OK for about half a mile. At that point you can feel it cut out at low revs only to pick up again when applying some throttle. If you have you stop at a junction - and I do whichever route I take, it's a major problem. It will idle, but as soon as it's given any gas it stalls. The only way to make progress is to put your left foot on the brake, rev it hard and bosh it into drive with the associated lurching or stalling.


Once it's fully warmed up, it's absolutely fine so I would suspect a dodgy temperature sender - but...the previous owner fitted a new one plus a new crank position sensor and a second hand MAF.


Any ideas?


Cheers


Glen.

 

My findings on my 3.2, and the 4.0 is the same I reckon.

The internal bore of the throttle body gets all gunked up, thus blocking air by-pass of the throttle disc.

That same gunk runs down the vertical throttle shaft (gravity is a wonderful thing), and enters the TPS.

Take a solvent soaked rag, and wipe out that throttle body, and that may require many wipes to get it, AND the disc edge clean. Mine was caked HARD, so I carefully scraped the bore with a kitchen knife, and I do mean CAREFULLY.

Next, remove the TPS, spray it with Contact Cleaner, and work the shaft, spray it some more and work it some more. Sometimes??? this sorts them, sometimes not. I have 95% success with this cleaning method on all manner of TPS units. Refit the TPS and see if you were as lucky. Access is crazy difficult, and the oil filter removed makes it much easier all round.

I change my oil filter from the top, so the trunking is removed, and I simply wipe that throttle body clean at each oil change.