You changed the coils back some time ago ( may have been the cheap ones ) and as they fail ( some do straight out of the box ) they will cause problems with the rest of the whole car electrical system causing problems with the other sensors output signal ( we'll say signal now because we are talking about more then a pure value which is what you want ) . Primarily the sensors power side wires are pure DC and as that wire gets corrupted with a AC or other funky things in the same wire ( they can exist in the same wire at the same time ) the resulting output wire from a sensor will be corrupted going into the ECU . The ECU might reject the bad resulting signal . This would correlate to heating up of the coils as you noticed a time or mileage change

The new Crankshaft sensor would be a easier try first as a bad part out of stock

Since you have another set of coils in the 2nd Jaguar I would swap them out all at once . Won't harm them . Keep track of the coil cylinder #s

The other engine regulation sensor codes may disappear as well on both cars as you get to one set of good coils

"CAUTION: When a new ECM or new sensors are installed or the wiring harness is changed, the ECM must be reprogrammed using PDU.

This may be a cover all statement from engineering but in practice not always necessary in my opinion .

 

Dear Lady Penelope,

I suspected that opinion and i ordered a OEM Made in Japan (the best engine coils) and i replaced again these engine coils but problem persist.

Curiously, I just found information consistent with my error codes:

P1621 Jaguar Possible Solution:

Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch Malfunction In Key On, Engine Off Self-Test, this DTC indicates the PSP input to the PCM is high. In Key On, Engine Running Self-Test, this DTC indicates that the PSP input did not change state. Steering wheel must be turned during Key On, Engine Running Self-Test PSP switch/shorting bar damaged SIG RTN circuit open PSP circuit open or shorted to SIGRTN PCM damaged.

P1621 Jaguar OBD2 may also be triggered by faults earlier down the line. For example, a dirty MAF sensor might be causing the car to overcompensate in its fuel-trim adjustments. As a result, oxygen sensors are likely to report fuel mixture problems.


P1333 Jaguar Possible Solution:

Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor (ACP) Insufficient Pressure Change Each time the A/C clutch engages, the PCM is looking for a pressure change in the refrigerant. If the change in pressure is outside of the calibration the DTC will set. A/C system mechanical failure Open ACP or VREF circuit A/C sensor damaged A/C system electrical failure A/C clutch always engaged Verify A/C system function, including refrigerant charge.

In the first case, my jag (x300 3.2) i think it has not got a Power Steering Pressure Switch, so i think that it is a old code because i have replaced 2 MAF and before of replacement, i clean it with a special spray for MAF. so, maybe problems are in O2 sensor???

In the second case, P1333, my A/C works very bad and it is a consistent error code with the symptoms.

 

.....thinking

The 3.2 Sport does not have speed variable power steering like the higher end models with a servo mounted high on the rack

X300 Air Conditioning Self Test and Diagnostics ~ Jaguar Vanden Plas "The cats meow"

My not show low freon service pressure . There is a common history of the single pressure switch going bad and they modify the radiator fans wiring per Jaguar TSB to bypass this switch other then the other dual position switch next to it

 

By the way, i replaced this "new" engine coils that i replaced 3 months ago (DMB411) for these other Made in Japan bought from SNG Barrat...

I replaced this engine coils pass October 16th...since then, i only have suffered stalling problems at idle 2 times, although never when i run by the highway as other times, but i have not driven more of 10-15 kms since then.

CHEAPER ENGINE COILS (I think are very bad engine coils)


NEW MADE IN JAPAN ENGINE COILS

 

I'd get another opinion on if these coils are the good ones depending on the source you ordered them for I don't have the experience on them . Mine are most likely the original coils with the lucas made in japan stickers which may or may not come with the good ones now . The pics are good as someone may be able to tell you if they had trouble with the ones in the pics

 

Yes, apparently many people have had many problems with the “Lucas” DMB411.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0-coils-93966/

i contacted with SNg Barratt and they said me that the engine coils Made in Japan they sell, are made by the same company in japan that the old OEM Lucas but now, without Lucas’ brand

 

The SNG Barratt is the good source if I remember correctly but other may correct me based on their experience

ELM327 . They're real cheap on EBAY , get the one with the included software although it is cheap software '

See about minute 3 on O2 sensors

 

Dear Lady Penelope,

I'm trying check the RS3 and LS3 connectors but i can't find them.

 

If you look down into the lower forward corner forward of the engine ECU the RS3 connector is buried down in there . Just follow the large wire bundles . Mine was damaged as it was wrecked on that right side with the right wheel well plastic liner not reinstalled by the repair persons causing water to get on it as well as physical broken damage to the connector plus the dragging of the 20 wires on the actual rubber wheel removing the wires insulation . That's why they gave up on the car . The other 20 wires go straight up in the well well coming out by the ABS modual . I cut out the connector and environmentally respliced the individual wires ( 40 ) . The area of concern is wire pin position # 22 with the highlighted yellow mark in the bellow PDF as you wring it out concerning fuel pump control only . I apologize for the amateurish work of the PDF doc for I'm working with what I've got .

In my opinion I think you are losing the Crankshaft Position Sensor signal as it breaks down into components in the ECU of engine fuel injector and spark timing , fuel injector fuel output volume as it relates to rotational velocity , and fuel pump on / off control

You can see if the coils are acting up causing a bad dirty corrupted signal into the wires by looking at the coils in the high humidity dark observation with your eyeballs on it or pitted spark plug wells after the fact ( as recommended by the more experienced Bob )

The LS3 is on the other side of the car in the same corner

 

Dear friend,

Hi again...Some days ago i cleaned the RS3 & LS3 connectors without any rust.

In addition, i disassemble the throttle position sensor to clean it and i replace a new IACV. After to disamssemble TPS, the car has 1.700 rpm in "P" position and 1.200 rpm in "D" position. I don't know how can i solve it. TPS is correctly assemble but RPM are too high now. Any idea??

(in my area there isn't a Jaguar Dealer for old car as my jaguar x300, only for new jaguars and they can't help me).

Thanks!!

 

As far as I understand it, the idle speed controlled by the TPS is based on a certain voltage. I have read where people have slotted out the control so it can be slightly rotated to vary the voltage to the ECU.

 

With your hand rotate the throttle butterfly to the closed idle stop and see what you get . Is the butterfly not freely going to full closed and requiring assistance ?

If the butterfly is fully closed and your idle is still high we'll look at 3 signals

Mass Air Flow sensor 1.2 volts when it is at the correct 700 RPM at transmission park position , 580 for drive ( Green / Pink wire )

Throttle Position sensor 0.60 volts at full closed ( Green / Yellow wire )

And the command signal to the Idle Air Control , it's 4 wire bipolar stepper motor below :

I would read what the 4 wires are at as the engine has " settled down " to idle but my exhaust is off so the engine is not running so I can't give you a comparison . But you can read the 4 wires to ground by removing the connectors from both ends in case there is a damaged wire shorting the command signals to ground . And check the wires to each other

See minute 2:00 in video :

 

i'm sure that problem is TPS. I think ECU should be reprogrammed after replace TPS but i don't know how can i do it. I have not IDS and here there isn't Jaguar dealer for old jaguar car.

I have disconnected IACV and problem with high rpm persists.

 

TPS : If the TPS is in a " certain range " of the previous replaced TPS sensors idle reading then I would't believe the ECU needs to be reoriented . The manual has a range of 0.60 volts + or - 0.02 at idle throttle stop . Mine was at 0.63 and I had to oversize the mounting holes in order to twist the mounting to get it to 0.60 . If the TPS was ever replaced in Lady P's history or reoriented if it was I doubt it based on the workmanship I have seen on the car . Never experienced a high idle at 0.63 . That " certain range " as described above my be tighter then the + or - 0.02 described above as the reorientation may involve biasing the the TPS intelligence signal or shifting one of the the maps in the ECU . Depending on drops that sensor and reverts to the others Editing

IAC valve : If you pull the connector the valve may freeze in the last scheduled position ( being correct or not correct ) as there my not be a return spring the take it to a failsafe position . If you look at the IAC valve acting as a deceleration solenoid ( with it's scheduled bleed down ) on a carburetor engine it would schedule the valve opening down from wide open position to a settled down smaller opening so the engine would not stall in a carburetor / throttle body sudden butterfly closed position change or undercut hence it not being simple open /closed valve but one to scheduled bleed down by a stepper motor .

In the morning I will read with a meter the IAC valve 4 command wires with a non running engine as I was able to read before the TPS voltages by rotating the key to the on position without running it . One thing to consider is the correct voltages my be present on the wires but the current required to drive the device ( valve winding's to pull around the rotating poles ) my be sucked down buy a short in the wiring

As you look at the big picture of the air volumes involved ( fuel injector pulse width at idle of 2.8 milli seconds time may be involved ) in the difference between idle RPM's from your observed and the manual stated values the above 2 devices may not account for this large of a idle value difference or anomaly

Editing

 

Any time that you clean the throttle or replace the TPS it has to be reset. You have to go to the dealer or find someone with a IDS and program the TPS, when the program asks if you replaced the TPS you say yes and it will bring the idle back to normal.

 

I had this same issue, after removing the TPS and cleaning the throttle body my RPM's ran too high. I took it to a dealer here and had the TPS adjusted and then worked like a charm. This fixed my high idle and stalling issue. Best luck!

 

In Canary Islands there aren't Jaguar dealer for jaguar x300. The companies have changed from other hands and the current jaguar dealer only works with jaguar from 2006. They have not got IDS/WDS for this cars...

I'm sure problem is TPS because i have replaced again the IACV and the problem persists.


Do you know if i can buy a IDS for this car and where i can get it??

Do you know that if i get a used throttle body where TPS hadn't been removed of its original position, maybe i can solve the problem??

 

I had the same symptoms with my xjr. I was getting P0304 and P1316 as codes. Turns out that the gas had gone bad since I had not driven it much for a good part of 6 months. I poured fresh fuel, fuel injector cleaner and fuel stabilizer. After getting the engine to start, I let it idle for a while and gave it the "Italian tune up". Worked like a charm.

Attached is the DTC for your reference. I hope this helps

 

The problem is related with i replaced the TPS... there is anything with TPS that i need to fit to solve it... The main problem is that in Canary Islands, there isn0t Jaguar dealer with IDS/WDS for jaguar x300 and i can't reprogram the ECU

 

The only advice I can give is to slot the two holes for the bolts. This will allow you to adjust the TPS' position so that it gets the voltage reading it's looking for at idle.

Does this make sense?

Remove the TPS, and enlarge the bolt holes.

When you reattach the TPS, make sure you don't tighten the TPS so that it cannot be adjusted by a forceful grip.

Start the car and adjust the TPS, adjusting the idle. This, hopefully will solve your problem. Once idle is good, tighten the two bolts in situ.