....that came out of left field!
 

What a random post for this thread..... :rolleyes:

Josh, you will likely have better luck starting a new thread if you need some help with your SC or finding a replacement, assuming that is what you are looking to do.

If you have a specific question about the SC for your car, or similar, it helps if you tell us a little about your car and situation, and include the basics of your car in your signature so everyone knows the context.

If you are simply looking to buy an X300 M90, I'd suggest posting a "WTB" (Wanted To Buy) post in the private classifieds section.

They pop up on eBay every so often too.

Good luck :)

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Decided to replace my 1996 x300's headlining with some new material and glad to say it turned out really nice , really easy to dismantle the fixture's and I had the board out within 15 minutes .. a little patience and some help from my son , we re-fitted within the hour and it looks great , looks strange looking in the rear view mirror and not seeing the sagging ..

Pauljag,
I need a new headlining in my XJR
where did you buy it from, somewhere in Australia?
was there a fitting guide you used, or just make it up as you went?
thanks

Well, didn't do anything to or for my car today, but the family drove up to North Hills, Raleigh for the annual MG club's "British Car Show".

I'd estimate there were about 50 cars there, MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Lotus, even a Mclaren and a couple TVRs... and about 7 Jaguars. There were a couple XJ40s from the early 90s that actually looked very nice, one was a VDP. There was a 1976 XJ12C (coupe) which I had never seen in person before, so that was neat. And there was one BRG X308 XJR and two E types, one coupe one convertible.

Since the MG club was the main sponsor, it wasn't surprising that by far the largest contingent was for the small sports cars like MGs and Triumphs.

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Hello AL NZ , live in the UK mate . I just removed the old cloth material and made sure that I cleaned off the old residue glue from the board . The material that I used was suitable for car interiors and bought from a local fabric shop at £6.99 a metre ( £34.95 ) measured at 1.4 metres by 5 metres . The secret I think is that the material I bought was deemed water-proof and this helped when I applied the spray glue so it didn't work through . Liberal amounts of glue placed on to the material first , after laying the material over the board and allowing a 3 inch overhang all round , I worked from the front lip section where the sun visor sits and work in using a small roller working from front to back and then up onto the outer side lips , I glued about 6 inches at at time across the board , allowing the glue to set and ensuring no air trapped bubbles . when you reach the rear of the board it's important to use a bit more bonding glue than you need to ensure a tight fit as the material goes in three directions and this is usually the first area to show signs of sagging . Finally turn the board over onto a clean surface and then bond the over-hang onto the back of the board for a clean finish , refit within 15 minutes but remember to cut out after the holes for sunvisors and the interior sensors . Hope this helps , Pauljag

Last month,

Replaced driveshaft carrier bearing.
Replaced exhaust doughnuts at the manifolds to stop that leak.
Welded up the cracked exhaust pipes,seam crack and crack next to the oxygen sensor.
Had the rear cats removed as they were rattling and had test pipes welded in place.

When I first bought the car not running I had to replace the fuel rail and injectors,I had a injector O ring not seated when I started the car up and it heated up one of the down pipes red hot,which is what I think blew the exhaust doughnut and cracked the pipe.

Gas mileage went up 2 miles to the gallon and the car no longer sounds like a tank.

Not a lot.... I've been planning on removing my intake tract for two weekends straight so I could clean my sticky throttle body, but it rained solid last weekend, and this long Memorial Day weekend looked promising but we had a tropical storm roll in Saturday afternoon. So far Sunday has been on-and-off heavy rain.

But during one of the interludes I did finally fix the oddball rattle I've had above the drivers window frame ever since I bought the car. I would have attacked it before, but it would do it for a bit, then go away for weeks or month or more and I'd just forget about it. It would roll clackity clack forward on braking, and roll clackity clack backward upon accelerating :icon_really:

I pulled back the edge finisher and ceiling edge trim to find one of the "Christmas Tree" rivets that holds the trim on had somehow backed out and come loose and was occasionally rolling back and forth. I suspect it was this way forever from new as I can't imagine how it could come out. And it's no surprise it was intermittent as that rivet isn't exactly round and there isn't a lot of room behind that trim! I bet it got hung up most of the time, then would come loose for a few days. I was very glad to see this was this simple problem as I was worried it was something inside the steel frame itself which might have proven impossible to get to.

A very minor "win" but something seemingly simple that I sort of dreaded looking into as I suspected it may be "unfixable" or I'd break all the trim getting to it :rolleyes:


I also was able to confirm that for a car (USA) not equipped with a heated windscreen, the harness is not fitted. I pulled back the RH kick panel where the relay and harness would be, and it is absent.

.

I have a rattle on my passenger side door. Could you kindly post any pictures if you have, how you fixed it. Thanks.

Replaced all the coolant hoses. Scraping the plaque from the aluminum fittings was the biggest inconvenience. Lost total count but twenty-three is pretty close to the final hose clamp tally. The heater pump assembly is a thing of beauty. Did it on the bench.

Called Welsh for the complete set and had them in three days for only 10% more than I was quoted for just the lower at another supplier.

Those two in the heater matrix with the funky joint consume over half the cost of the the entire set! (One from the head and it mates to the 4-ended one with an o-ring) both way more than the lower hose with all the molded takeouts and such on it. $200 car has a leak in the 4-way hose, so I'll probably fit the one pre-emptively removed from the other 96 when I replaced all hoses as part of mending a failed T-stat. But if it springs a leak...I may well construct a matrix of PVC pipe and affix it to the bulkhead, barb-fittings to allow a common heater hose from the head without the special fitting on one end.

The whole set,including those, the lower, bank, upper and all the heater matrix was a tad over $300.

I got by for $292.58 including thermostat, but had to spread the sourcing: Rock, Amazon, O'Reilly's and what I've labeled "Other" in a spreadsheet - but I know it was an internet shop, just can't come up with the name.

Rattle was overhead, not in door. Sorry no photos, too quick a fix.
 

Hi, sorry no photos. This rattle was not in the door. It was in the roof frame over the drivers (LHD) door.

Very simple fix though. Pull away velour door edge finisher (part 8 in the diagram below), then pull overhead headliner trim (part 1 in the diagram below) edge away. This is the trim along the edge of the headliner that the overhead grab handles bolt into above the passenger and rear doors. Over the drivers door there is no handle with bolts to hold the trim, so this trim over the drivers door is held on via "Christmas Tree" rivets.

One of my "Christmas Tree" rivets was rolling around loose overhead behind that trim along the edge of the headliner. Popped the rivet back into its slot in the back of the trim, then pushed the trim back on with the errant rivet pushed into its receiver. Problem solved :)

The trim removed and behind which was the rattle is the part labelled "1" in the illustration below.

Replaced the two gray plastic rear door window switchpack bezel/surrounds with the 1995 XJR dark birdseye maple bezels/surrounds.

Finding a set was the hard part, and I'm still looking for the front door pair, but installation takes about five minutes per side.

As most know for some reason Jaguar only used the birdseye maple wood door switchpack bezels/surrounds in 1995 for the X300, then went to color matched plastic in 1996 and 1997 for the birdseye maple trimmed XJRs. For the XJRs that had the standard burl walnut, the switch bezels/surrounds continued to be wood.


I also installed the chrome B pillar trim rings that surrounds the shoulder belt height adjuster as found on the XJ12 and I suspect also VDP trimmed cars. I don't think standard XJ6 and XJR cars came with this trim, at least my 1997 did not.

More info here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-trim-142614/


I also tested the Alpine KCA-801B between my stock head unit and CD player to see if using a couple Ai-Net to M-Bus converter cables would have it work as designed, and it worked perfectly.

The CD changer continued to play and be controlled by the head unit perfectly while the KCA-801B was in-line, then when 12V (I think 5V is sufficient to trigger as I recall) was applied to the trigger it cleanly switched to its auxiliary port input from my phone and the head unit continued to believe the CD was attached and actually continued to play/control the CD just without the CD audio.

The only trick is that the CD changer must be loaded and playing CDs or the head unit will assume there is "no disc" and will cut off the audio. So to use the KCA-801B you will have to keep your CD changer loaded with discs while you inject audio from your new auxiliary input.

This was just a rough test, so I'd still need to figure out how I'll add a Bluetooth adapter in the trunk and also trigger the 5-12V from the cabin. But I've got PAC TR-4 signal sensing switch I may try, or I may use the telephone cable in the console to switch 5-12V to the KCA-801B. Once I have that figured out and have a more polished install I'll post a detailed how-to thread.

Alpine KCA-801B Audio Input Adapter for Ai-Net System at Crutchfield.com

The KCA-801B isn't available new anymore, but they pop up on eBay regularly use and NOS for about $30.

The KCA-801B is fitted with two female Ai-Net inputs, and its L/R RCA input. It also comes with one male/male Ai-Net cable. For an install with an existing Ai-Net CD changer, you would simply unplug the vehicle head unit male Ai-Net cable from CD changer and plug it into the KCA-801B then use the included male/male Ai-Net to connect the KCA-801B to the CD changer (or vice versa, depending on if the head unit Ai-Net cable or CD changer cable is male or female, such as in an X308).

With our X300 M-Bus Alpine changer, you'll need two Ai-Net to M-Bus cable adapter/converters.

The first cable you'll need is to go from the KCA-801B's female Ai-Net port to the male M-Bus cable from the CD changer. The only place I could find this cable was the following:

ALP/Ai-F Alpine Dual Bus Changer to M-BUS Radio installation cable :: CD Changers :: Car Stereos and components

The second cable you need connects to the male/male Ai-Net cable that comes with the KCA-801B so that you can connect to the female M-Bus cable from the head unit. This converter cable is an Alpine cable that is readily available. It is a KCA-130B which is male M-Bus and female Ai-Net.

String them together in the following arrangement, then figure out what you want to connect to the auxiliary ports and how you want to trigger the 5-12V switch and you are good to go.

Head unit M-Bus female cable -> KCA-130B Male M-Bus/Female Ai-Net Cable -> KCA-801B Male/Male Ai-Net Cable -> KCA-801B Output Ai-Net female port -> [KCA-801B] -> KCA-801B Input Ai-Net female port-> ALP-Ai-F Male Ai-net/Female M-Bus cable -> CD changer male M-Bus cable

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Somebody shoot me!
 

Just "completed" fuel pump renewal on the black 96. Really sweet job - took some extra time and lock wired the worm-gear hose clamp to the pump as insurance against hose blow-off. Renewed the fuel filter as well. Put a gallon of petrol back in and had the lad turn to pos II, then crank it while I rested a finger on the relay. "Click" goodness.... but no light off. Checked below decks for leaks, none. "Well, maybe it holds a gallon or so unusable?" After all, I disconnected lines and pulled it out all while staying dry, then dumped 2 1/2 gallons out the filler pipe. So, started transferring from the 2 gal fuel can I'd filled during yesterday's siphon operation. Maybe a half gallon into that, I reminded myself that I'd failed to connect the wire harness to the evaporative flange..... No! Not the easy one in the boot..... the one from the pump to the flange INSIDE the tank!!!


I had to break and come in for dinner.... well, on my redo this evening I can surely skip the first step: "Depressurize the fuel system!"
Edit: Well... however unnecessary it should have been, it was easier and faster the second time in one day....

Got a complete engine bay and underside of the car detailed. 18 years of gunk and oil caked mud completely cleaned. I had a bad odor as soon as the engine warmed up, which is gone.

Next, a good tune up.

I'm getting my XJ6's original shocks and struts replaced. Also the fuel filter.

fixed the door cable linkage and cleaned out the panels and the window remote control today! I think ill wash her later today! She deserved it you know because the suffer of the lumpy door for atleast a week.

Not exactly all today, but progress is being made inc. new fuel hoses and pressure regulator (and yet more shinny bits)

Washed it, polished wheels, inc. spare. Checked fluids, battery, tire pressure. Finally got a chance to clean up the interior, carpets, replaced a few missing dash screws. "Custom fitted" a pair of old Acura front floor mats. Added a large digit clock right over the original with some velcro. Very easy to read and less than 7.00. Polished up the tail pipe tips with Simichrome. Looking good. Been back from Washington a week. Taking off tomorrow for the Santa Rosa area.