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The tie-rod-end should come off when the bolt is removed from the outer end of the tie rod - the part the connects the tie rod to the hub/spindle.
Now, you may need to use a tie-rod-puller tool or a "fork" style tool to separate the tie-rod-end from the hub spindle.
Before taking them off, put some white paint or something on the threads of the steering rack shaft to show where the tie-rod-end comes to when reassembling. That way, you're at least close enough to the correct spot to be able to drive it to an alignment shop.
Now, you may need to use a tie-rod-puller tool or a "fork" style tool to separate the tie-rod-end from the hub spindle.
Before taking them off, put some white paint or something on the threads of the steering rack shaft to show where the tie-rod-end comes to when reassembling. That way, you're at least close enough to the correct spot to be able to drive it to an alignment shop.
someguywithajag
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Thank you for your reply.
That bolt was the problem. I ended up giving it a few wacks with a hammer; that loosened it up. Everything came apart after that pretty quickly.
I do have a question though: the inner tie rods seem to fine but in order to remove them from the rack's core, I had to use a centre punch to destroy their locks (the lock was just an indent that prevented each inner tie rod from unscrewing on its own).
I might be able to use the centre punch to make an indent to make a lock again, should I or should I just replace them with new tie rods?
Best.
That bolt was the problem. I ended up giving it a few wacks with a hammer; that loosened it up. Everything came apart after that pretty quickly.
I do have a question though: the inner tie rods seem to fine but in order to remove them from the rack's core, I had to use a centre punch to destroy their locks (the lock was just an indent that prevented each inner tie rod from unscrewing on its own).
I might be able to use the centre punch to make an indent to make a lock again, should I or should I just replace them with new tie rods?
Best.
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I am not sure about that, it's been a long time since I did mine.
I looked through the pdf posted above by cool, but can't make out anything with a punched indent on that shaft.
I looked through the pdf posted above by cool, but can't make out anything with a punched indent on that shaft.
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if your tie rod bar are still good, you can reuse them (as long as there is no clearance when moving the ball and socket) Make sure to tighten rod with the proper torque since there is already no lock on the inner end of the rod, still it will not release/loosen itself.
someguywithajag
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Quote:
I looked through the pdf posted above by cool, but can't make out anything with a punched indent on that shaft.
Perhaps it's more clear in the following two pictures: I circled the relevant members.Originally Posted by smartobject
I am not sure about that, it's been a long time since I did mine. I looked through the pdf posted above by cool, but can't make out anything with a punched indent on that shaft.
someguywithajag
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Quote:
Makes sense. Would you happen to know the torque specs?Originally Posted by cool
if your tie rod bar are still good, you can reuse them (as long as there is no clearance when moving the ball and socket) Make sure to tighten rod with the proper torque since there is already no lock on the inner end of the rod, still it will not release/loosen itself.
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As an update, I flushed removed the old fluid from the reservoir with a pump a couple of time with Amsoil transmission fluid and the car no longer has this issue. I didn't even think about the fact that my fluid could be old and just this little bit of freshening of the fluid helped a ton. I really need to keep doing this but am saving the four quarts I have left for a transmission drain & fill at the moment.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vandenplas408
no DO NOT REUSE THOSE TIE RODS!! ><
I ended up buying a new set. Didn't think it was worth the trouble/risk to reuse those rods





