Hello,

Cleaned then refitted the connector. Placed a zip tie around it. The driver’s seat reversers when the door is opened. That’s the only new change.

Fuel pump relay does not ‘click’ when key is turned. I ran the engine for few seconds using a paper clip to jump the fuel pump relay. It started to smoke a a bit, got hot.

I suspect one of connector’s pins is not connected well, although I pressed it firmly.

Any ideas, please?

 

No. Just key + FOB

 

All fuses checks out.

 

Hello,

fuse # 5 is OK.

 

Do not use paper clip on fuel pump relay as there is a lot of current , reason for smoke

Use a blade type connector with a medium size wire , pic coming , the auto parts store can help you build it

Take your relay to store and it will be the bigger 2 of the 4 sockets

Your relay socket is already compromised and will eventually need to swap that socket for the ACC relay socket nearby

 

Battery probably needs charging by now

Never install battery in backwards , positive post forward

Never over tighten the battery positive post bolt , breaks curved nut underneath

 

Agreed. It was a quick test only. plan to change the socket once fuel issue resolved.

 

Noted 👍🏼

could water in or around spark plugs cause the electrical fault car is suffering from?

 

Water around spark plus will cause weak spark but not interfere with fuel pump relay clicking

There is the thing where each zap of the plugs can interfere . It is in effect ( a polluting AC signal ) with the engine sensors ( CKPS being one )

But you should still have the in the beginning fuel pump 3 second command as this does not use the CKPS

So you should have 3 clicks of the fuel pump relay , on 3 seconds - off - on from the CKPS talking to the ground providing engine ECU

 

I will be taking a nap for a couple of hours after meds as the painful flue and high blood pressure affection me

 

Be well Parker 7 💐

 

Back , 3 day flu

 

Hello,

Well, I have unplugged the security module as per a Youtube recommendation, installed a new battery… nothing! Engine would still crank but not start.

Next step; I plan to raise the car, check under engine bay for any plugs/sockets that need cleaning/drying. Inspect ABS and speed sensors wires. Some are worn out and maybe causing a short circuit.

Suggestions box remains open.

Khaled

 

I'll be at a dialysis patient chair in a bit and go over your issue of cranking but no start

 

Hello Parker,

I hope you are better now.

​​​Installed a new Bosch battery

Going back a bit to the RH heel board, the pump relay (clicks) and fuse no 10 is ok. Pump relay in the engine bay is ok. Its seems the signal to trunk pump relay is missing. The itself relay and fuse no. 10 (5amp) are ok as well.

So my question is: which wire feeds the signal to trunk relay? Where does it start? Does it pass through the 48-pin Connector?

I should mention that I removed the antenna mechanism few months ago to service/inspect and to replace the broken antenna. Many wires shield was damaged/missing, including the 48-pin connector (that’s why I had to remove the socket). I taped them.

Instrument Hazard/Warning Display still does not light on when key is turned. They come on once if battery negative is removed for few seconds.

Appreciate your feedback.

 

On M' Lady Penelope from the previous owner had wrecked the car in the front right damaging the RS3 connector way down below the Engine ECU

The single control wire ground path that closes the fuel pump relay was effected

How the previous owner got around it was to use the spare ACC relay in the trunk to power the fuel pump through socket power contacts 3 and 5

The control ground provided by the ECU is socket 2 on the fuel pump relay socket , there should power on the 1 socket ( this is not pump muscle power passing through relay )

You should see ground at socket 2 for 3 seconds only with initial key rotation , then off

this previous owner work around worked as it only powered the pump with the key

His workmanship was poor , and the fuel pump became bad wire connection over time which I discovered

 

Glad to see you Parker.

I prefer a proper fix rather than a turn around as the fault seems to affect instrument warning lights, central locking, AND the fuel pump’s relay signal.

Am thinking the Connector’s pins are not making full contact. That connector becomes loose each time I crank the engine (roof central light and doors corner red light turn off). I have a zip tie around the socket but not holding it firmly in place. Should I replace it? How hard of a job it is?

Did a spark plug test as well. No spark!

 

That large BT4 connector above the fuel tank is troublesome , if you work it too hard , there is the possibility of breaking the bar lock over pins on the car side

The problem is that it goes through a couple of layers of sheet metal that are cut out but still in the way of the connector halves seating together

Best suggestion is to leave original connector and take a good look at the connector cutouts and shave off some material on the trunk side connector half around the outside edge

This same BT4 connector is used down below the engine ECU as the RS3 connector but it may be slightly different as a little thicker ( ? ) this may be your other issues as well


This same connector is used as a couple of them behind the glove box

I never could come up with a manufacture part # for a new

You can bring a single wire repair around the connector involved as pin # 16 ( double checking )

In the wiring guide this single ECU provided ground path to close the fuel pump relay passes through the either Papa Indy 1 or 61 connector under the hood which is easy to get to and have a new part # for

I'll give you more information later

 

The single wire that is the ground to close the fuel pump relay is Pink / Brown wire at the Papa Indy 61 connector position 7 under the hood by the wiper fluid fill cap






This part # is just for the white connector " cap " for a AMP brand Econoseal 3 / 13 way connector easily available

My attempt to number the pin positions may not be accurate


\

 

Hello,

inspected Papa Indy 61 connecter and the 48-pin connector for damage/dirt. All checks out.

I have attached a clip of the persistent condition where when I disconnect the negative terminal for few seconds, reconnect it, the instrument warning lights come on. However, if I switch key off, they will not come back again.

Central lock, radio, and hazard light still do not work when instrument warning lights are on.

any idea what’s causing this, please?

I read in a post a pin in the ECU could cause crank no start if damaged (not sure how).

also, I had the raised on jack stands for few months ( was changing 4 struts). Could I have damaged a cable/wire under the car?

Regards,