Hello,



I recently bought a 1996 Daimler Six with 127,000 km on it.



The car is in fairly good condition. The engine and transmission worked fine.



However, I had it suspended on Jack stands outside my house during the summer, tyres off, while working to change all four struts myself.



Few days ago, I lowered it, washed it, washed the engine, tried to start it but it did not. Even after a week or so.



After going through several inspections and checks of fuses, relays and switches ,the current situation is this:



Instrument panel only works once then I have to unplug the negative battery terminal for a few seconds, put it back, then the instrument panel will light up again . If I turn the key off, panel lights won’t go back on until I unplug the battery for few seconds.



The engine cranks, but there’s no fuel delivery from the fuel pipe in the engine bay.



Noticed the fuel pump relay socket has some carbon marking on it (see picture). I’m not sure if this is old or recent.


Burnt or worn?


I jumped the relay terminals with a paper clip to test the pump, but did not hear anything.



The fuel sender unit leaks tiny fuel. I plan to replace it.



I should mention the harness loom socket on top of the fuel tank is not in its best condition.



It was glued before (when it bought it) and now I have a temporary fix which is not solid (I took it off, now I regret it)



I still need to insure the socket is totally pushed in every time I want to crank the car (indications: instrument panel lights ON, roof and doors corner red lights ON).



Inertia switch seems to work fine (it cuts off when pressed and held).



Key FOB does not work. Central and boot buttons do not work via FOB, dash or, directly buttons.



Gear lever lights are on.



One auxiliary fan runs whenever I turn the key to access position ( I think this is normal).



Roof, windows, side mirrors, A/C fan all work.



Finally, There are two worn wires in the front tyres wells which I’m not sure what for.



Sorry for the long writeup.



Appreciate your feedback.



Regards,



Khaled A.

 

Washing the engine is not recommended. (see TSB)
Fuel pump wiring at the EVAPORATIVE FLANGE is a common fault.
The radiator fans run with 'key-on' if the TSB was performed.

The Rad fans runs in SERIES on LOW and PARALLEL on HIGH. (both fans run at the same time ALWAYS)

 

Paper clip is not a good jumper , suggest use blade type connectors and a medium gauge wire , take the relay with you for blade size

They can make one for you with a kit / toolbox behind counter at the common auto parts store

The burnt contacts in the fuel pump relay is a sign the fuel pump electric motor is failing but is usually the power contacts inside the relay

But there are easy things you can check

The fuel pump enable works like this :

There is a secret fuse the provide relay control power as the # 10 right heelboard fuse box , in order that the fuse is powered the relay in the corner of the fuse box must close

This same fuse powers the OBD 2 port and there are faults with that reported




To test this relay have the key in run but not running , remove the relay and it must click in your fingers back to open

To close the fuel pump relay the ECU provides a ground control path

In the start sequence the fuel pump relay will click closed for 3 seconds only than open

Once the crankshaft position sensor on the front of the engine sees engine rotation above a certain point the ECU will again provide a ground path to close the fuel pump relay for the duration of your drive , safety design

The power the ECU so it can provide the control ground path , it has 2 power sources , small relay in the corner of the right engine bay fuse box and the large # 5 right ECU controlled relay

Swap the right for left engine bay fuse box relay as the left only runs the car horn

Swap the large # 5 for a headlight , fog , or A / C cutch . Turn the relay socket upside down and spray with penetrating oil as they can be stuck in their sockets

Your target to clean is the CKPS as you washed the engine bay

Ask questions and check the fuel pump electric motor connector for burnt sockets

The inertia switch does not always reset after you exersized it , remove connector and jumoer the 2 white wires to each other , paper clip fine in this case , low current

There is a extra relay socket in the trunk for axillary power that you probably don't use / trailer ?

 

Hello Motorcarman,

Yes. I came to find out washing these engine is done in certain manner.

I did clean the few sockets i can reach and relays I can unplug in the engine bay with contact cleaner and WD40 mix. The weather is humid with zero wind these days which prolongs dryness.

Do you have an idea what could cause the instrument panel to go in then off once?

Thank you.

 

I wrote something on you IC but vanished , I'll try again in the morning

 

[img alt="Default"]/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif[/img]Hello Parker7,

Thank you for the information.

Checked ALL fuses twice visually and with a multimeter. All report to duty. Did the relay swap. Relays were harder to inspect as some are stuck in place (hate to force them out). Sprayed contact cleaner around the housing. Sprayed CKPS housing and plug as well. Should I remove it to clean it?

Will check the fuel pump once I find a suitable probe.

Any suggestion as to what trips the instrument panel?

Regards,

 

There is a light dimming switch as a very small knob on the steering column left

Turn the switch to override for the IC background lights , is it the IC fault lights and not background ?

The large relays can be turned upside down to get penetrating oil into the seams that contain a thin O - ring to waterproof them

Don't lose track of placing relay in correct mount position as can be mixed and then you go by wire color

Keep asking questions

 

The CKPS can get grime on the tip of the sensor ( from wash down ) to interfere with the signal

Just wipe tip

The plug can still have water in it

Bed time for me

Did you place main car battery in backwards , blows CKPS , ask me how I know

A good CKPS will read 1300 ohms resistance with a basic meter , bad infinitely high or zero

The CKPS does not have any adjustsment , just bolts in one postion

battery positive post car fwd , mark with tape and arrow

 

Hello Parker 7,

I was referring to the instrument warning lights not needle background lights.

I went again to clean the relays and crank sensor as you suggested. There was a slight improvement in that the The instrument’s warning lights now stay longer, light up when the key is switched off then on few times (but then stay off until ai disconnect/reconnect the negative terminal).

did not miss place battery terminals at any time.

The humid weather is not helping dry things up faster.

did you mean spark plugs could get water inside?


Thank you.

 

The CKPS sensor plug / connector

To do a whole car electrical distribution check ( for the instrument cluster ) in a nut shell , IC is powered through the left healboard fuse box

Have key in run with engine not running

Remove each single relay in the corner of each 5 fuse boxes with the exception of the left engine bay fuse box , the relay should click in your fingers back to open , the left engine fuse box relay only runs the car horns and is a swapping option

Your first target is swapping the left engine bay fuse box relay for the left heelboard , may be a intermittent left heelboard fuse box relay

 

Hello Parker 7,

Will perform the checks you suggested.

Car ran perfectly fine until I jet washed the engine

Could that be the cause of all these issues? Did I “burn” something? or, it’s just dampness that would go away once parts dry up?

Regards ..

 

Thinking about your drying out , that much humidity in Kuwait ?

Used to live ( parents ) on the Red Sea near the shore side of Jedda

 

Low-mid these days as season turning. Usually it’s dry winters and summers (50+ C.)

Great waters. Used to camp up very north, Ras Humaid beach. Now its closed off for NEOM project.

 

By the Turkey Creek sea outlet , watched the sea life below in the water from the bridge above

Snorkeled in the sea above Turkey Creek

 

Status update:

Relay swap had no affect.

Confirmed fuel pump works (jumped relay terminals). It does not work on ignition.

Central door lock and trunk buttons (inside car and on trunk) plus key fob buttons do not work.

Could it be the immobiliser? How to confirm it is not engaged?

Still need to disconnect/reconnect negative terminal to turn on the instrument cluster warning lights back after cranking.

 

The fuel pump control / enable is 1 wire ground provided by the engine ECU , the same ground path wire is used for both the initial 3 second with first key rotation and the later when the CKPS sees engine rotation , safety design

You can skip the " normal " fuel relay control and just jumper the relay , but this fuel pump running all the time with the keys in your pocket will eventually drain the battery

You've probably already tried to start it with the relay jumperd

" Central door lock and trunk buttons (inside car and on trunk) plus key fob buttons do not work."

is a clue the security lock control module ( fuse # 3 or # 4 of the trunk fuse box ( fuse is powered at all times ) is not giving the engine ECU an enable for starter ( do you have starter rotation ? this is where the immobilization come into play later in discussion

So fuse and relays to check that things are powered but you have done that so will skip

List

did you jumper the inertia switch with a paper clip between the 2 white wires of the connector ?

So now getting to the immobilization as the names of the components get mixed around

The decoder for the chip in key is in the dash and contributer B1McP had a good pic of it's location

In order that the decoder is powered by a fuse X in the trunk fuse box it passes through the BT - 4 connector above the fuel tank as the wire goes fwd to the dash

Ensure the connector has a tie wrap on it holding the lock over bar closed , do not remove connector yet as there is a trick to not breaking it , more on this later

This BT - 4 connector is the same as the LS - 3 and RS- 3 in the pic below


See page Y ( can't find right now so will take some time ) to see the decoder and its wiring

Left or right hand steering location ?

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf

Will be proofreading to make sure names and terms are correct as they get mixed

Ask questions and will be back

 

Dies your key have a lump / chip in key ?

 

See page 163 for a 1995

The decoder in this case is referred to as the Reader / Exciter Control Module

What is missing is the BT - 4 connector and 97 square point is fuse Z

jagxj1995.pdf (jagrepair.com)

3.2 or 4.0 liter engine for starter circuit as there is a slight difference

 

Fuse Z is trunk # 5 / 10 amp reference page 207 and page 36 of the 1996 wiring guide , found it

This is point 99 square ( for the 1996 ) and includes the BT - 4 position 47 connector reference

jagxj1996.pdf (jagrepair.com)

 

The muscle power to the fuel pump relay is in the trunk as fuse A , hot at all times

The control power that is ground seeking ( as it pulls the fuel pump relay closed ) provided by the ECU is fuse # 10 / 5 amp right heelboard fuse box , this fuse can blow as it is shared with the OBD 2 port ( bent pins found or the OBD 2 device blows fuse )

This fuse # 10 requires the relay in the corner of the fuse box to close

You can also see the same BT - 4 connector but position 31 reference