That should be the Air Temperature Sensor. It makes small adjustments to your idle....not sure it can stall out an engine. Your OBD2 reader should be able to read it and tell you what temperature is coming into the engine. I've only seen it fail cold, like -40F cold.

I had an EGR fail in my car when I first got it. It would stall out like yours, without a code. One time it stalled me out on the highway!!! It awarded me with the prized EGR fail CEL code though! Might be worth taking a shot on it. Some people swear it can be cleaned, I've never had any luck with cleaning one. I bit the bullet and paid $100 for a new one.

 

Here's a pic of the ecu. It does not have the traction control modules.

 

You have the R493 updated ECU so the last step would be if you have the EGR part # specified in the TSB

I don't see the dedicated ground wire on the bottem mount bolts attach points

The parts may have come from a donor car in the past so you can have a mix

Wether a modded ECU can correctly control a factory original; EGR is a question

The return spring would be hard to tell

 

What does this specifically do? I see it has both water and air going through it. Is there a name for it?

 

There was some modifications to clean the crankcase breather air of oil particles that foul the TB and the butterfly freely moving back to the idle stop

This free movement defiantly effects the X300 idle smoothness from reading

It would be a centrifugal force separator

The factory separator design is contained inside the valve cover and is of poor performance

 

Please forgive... Where do I find S801 PDF?

 

www.jagrepair.com/images/Training Guides/801S - 2000.pdf

 

Thank you.

We had purchased a new self contained odb2 reader and it's DOA. So We ordered a ELM 327 since we've seen it mentioned here on these forums. What software would you folks recommend for Android? Looking to be able to read the fuel trims and temperatures.

Thanks,

Bobby

 

The ELM - 327 device sometimes comes with a lower version of software

If you can get the software to work it may give you the information you seek so I would spend some time with that

A prettier and more costly version of software can be found on the web and as a turret download

You may be teased with free downloads but they will only give you the normal CEL codes but in order to give you the full functionality you would have to purchase a key

This can waste your time

The ones on E - bay are China rip offs of the Canadian Patent

that being said one of the PIDs of mass air flow can be off by a factor of 10 or 100 from reading

As an engineering rule of thumb the MAF at a idle speed of 650rpm is 1.0 grams / second

So you should see 4.3 g/s

I used a turrent obtained software that was great until the 25th usage where it required a key to be purchased

The best thing to look at is a graph display over time vs. a snap shoot gauge display

Out of the 1000 nds of Youtube videos there is only one worth watching but I cant find it now on my newer computer , maybe later

 

Android users seem to prefer Torque. Alas, that isn’t available for iPhone users. Android users get the benefit of using a Bluetooth ELM27 dongle, iPhone must use WiFi only.

 

To recap, we started with the car sputtering and stalling with no codes (probably was running in open loop). Now after replacing/cleaning many sensors we're getting p0300 and p1314 (says close loop).

We've replaced so far (and most needed replacing):
All 4 O2 sensors. Verified proper locations.
Crank position sensor.
Intake air control valve.
All 6 coils.
Exhaust manifold down pipe seals (these were completey gone).
Rubber boot for TB to air intake ducting.
Air filter.
Fuel filter.
Fuel pressure regularor.
Gas in tank (checked it all for water, but found none). Replaced anyway. Mower now running on siphoned hi test

Cleaned:
MAFS
Intake air temperature sensor.
Throttle body.

Verified:
Coolant temperature sensor (working).
Fuel pressure ~40lbs.

Still waiting on new intake manifold gasket to arrive.

So we've managed to get the obd2 working on a spare tablet. It works on my phone but I felt the screen is too small to fit all we want to capture at the same time. Unfortunately I haven't yet figured out how to get the screen capture working on the tablet. So I used my phone to take pictures of the tablet while running. Not optimal, but it works. I tried to get all that's pertinent on one page. Since I'm posting all this from my phone I'm posting the pictures seperately. They're coming next.

 

Stft

maf

tps

ect

There may be a graph function that can be saved as a file

 

Using cheap ELM - 327 rip off reader and Torque pro android. Tried taking pics at idle and after running around 2000 rpm for 30 seconds (ish). The bank 2 O2 sensors jumped around quite a bit, usually together. Which I suppose goes along with the p1314. We're assuming an air leak into bank 2. Bank 1 sensors remained low on the graph most of the time. When I accelerated sometimes all for sensors jumped. Sometimes only the bank 2 sensors jumped. I'm wondering if the cheap obd2 reader wasn't updating properly at times. Or maybe an issue with the bank 1 sensors? I did notice the egr was getting commanded erratically. Sometimes it was down at idle. Sometimes it was up at idle. Pictures yet to come.

 

Recently started. Temp low, high idle. Surprised it was already in closed loop.


have to post pics seperately as my phone is struggling to post them. I'll say when the last pic is posted. There are several.

 

Idle is about as low as it gets (maybe a little lower. We'll look at that after we get the p0300 fixed). EGR?? Bank 2 O2 sensors jumping.

 

Temperature climbing. O2 weirdness.

 

More O2 wierdness.

 

Settling down.

 

Holding around 2k rpm.


O2 sensors?

 

Up and down on the rpm a couple times.