Holding around 2k rpm. Engine warmed up.


O2 sensors?

 

MAF is not in range

EGR error should be 0

 

That's all the pics for now. I'm not sure which display on torque is for the tps. I'll investigate. I'm at work right now any have to go pretend to do something appreciate any hints, tip and opinions to get this sorted out. The errors did not pop up during this. I had cleared them. But they would have hit soon.

Thanks all!

 

Starting with the egr. I guess it can sense it's own position? I looked at ours and I only saw these nimbers;

 

OK. EGR 95217 does pull up replacements. I'll start there. Gosh I hate to have to buy a new MAFS (I guess everybody does). Wish I could try it before I buy it.

I can see where the MAFS and EGR would effect the system overall. Any ideas regarding the different readings on the O2 sensors? We're planning on checking/replacing the intake gasket asap. Could it be anything else besides an air leak? We've changed the coils. Injectors?

 

could be anything including TPS

 

The EGR does have a position sensor built in , you can read this position with a simple meter before removing it

The MAF should be 4.3 grams / second at idle

The middle wire on the MAF sensor with the connector still installed should read 1.2 volts DC at idle , it will rise in voltage with higher throttle ranges

The ELM - 327 is a Canadian company patent that is stolen by Chiness copy cats

There is a question on whether the software is even tested before putting their product out so the confidence it is correctly giving you correct information

The MAF can bbe multiplyed by 10 or 100 to make sence

The EGR error can be backwards and 100 % could be 0 %

 

you can get a used maf from a 95-98 range rover or 96-99 discovery (1)

 

I will check the MAFS middle wire tomorrow morning. Would I be checking the EGR the same way? If so, which wire and are the voltages known?

What engine would the range rover be for 96-98? Or does it not matter?

I can see the tps effecting idle, etc.. but could it be the cause of only one of the two banks throwing errors?

Thanks so much for the help!

Bobby

 

4.0 or 4.6 doesn’t matter

make sure it is sagem not not bosch

 

0.7 volts DC for a closed EGR at idle is what the position sensor will read with engine running at idle

Red / Pink wire

Middle wire of the 5




The MAF for the X300 normally aspirated X300 is different then the supercharged X300 and does not work between the 2 X300s

It is labeled as a Lucas , I'll have to look at my extra one in the garage

When a sensor is missing a signal or the signal is out of expected range the ECU will ignore that signal and use a less then optimal set of data maps

The idle range is the most critical area to get combustion correct

The TPS can have a good signal on 90 % of its range but a bad spot on 10 % and maybe your idle stop , once the ECU revert to the different data maps it takes X amount of time to revert to the optimum data maps when a good signal is recovered

The TPS does not read below 11 or 13 % as a good sensor

A valid test of the TPS is to very very slowly read the middle wire and look for a bad spot by the meter and not seeing 0 volts ,so you would see a sweep between 0.6 to 4.5 volts

There have been cases where the sweep does not get to the high range and this effects the engine high end output

This also applies to the MAF as you run the engine

There is a TSB to not run the engine up if sitting in the driveway

 

So much great information. I've decided I need to go back and re read much of what was given me here. I can see places where you gents answered my questions here before I asked them.

This weekend I'll be checking the sensor voltage levels with a fluke meter. First thing I have to do is add a good ground point on the engine to attach the meter to. When checking the TPS voltage it was infuriating trying to hold both probes, one on the engine and one on the nicked wire. I'd like to make it an aligator clip so it'll lock onto the ground probe.

We're hoping the new intake manifold gasket will arrive soon. When we installed it last time we installed it dry. No sealants. Should we be using anything on top of the gasket? Gasket seatant or even a thin coat of oil on both sides? What is the standard practice for this? And is there a torque pattern for the bolts? I think last time once we got them finger tight we torqued them front to back.

Before Re installing the manifold we'll eyeball it for cracks.

Thanks again for all the help!

Bobby

 

There is 2 small ground terminal post on the rear firewall

The 2 larger ones on the fire wall are battery positive terminal post so don't use them

There is probably a torque pattern in the engine workshop manual

Otherwise you can use the standard practice

 

I’m away from my service manual, you really should buy one. They’re on eBay all the time. Green soft covered book.

The exhaust manifold has a pattern and a torque requirement, pretty high, if I recall correctly. Basically you start in the middle and go cross-cross back and forth towards the outer bolts/nuts.

Not sure if any kind of product will be needed for the seal as these areas get very hot. I would assume it does go on dry.

 

The throttle body mating to the intake manifold does not take a gasket or sealant

Odd

The intake manifold being aluminum different then the cast iron for the exhaust manifold would be more susepical to cracking

Vee;s standard practice approach may or may not be the best method in this instance , but is what I had in mind

I have some AJ16 engine manuals on other computers but.................

BBQ and football day

 

This set of data is a classic symptom of O2 sensors being connected the wrong way around. It would be worth swapping the connections and see what happens - it's free!

 

Thanks all.

I will try swapping the O2's. Yeah, that's at least free!

Parker, I thought I remember there being a gasket for the TB to intake mating when taking it apart. Jagbits lists one.

https://www.jagbits.com/product/EAC9822.html

Should I not be using one?

My question about bolt pattern and sealant was for the intake manifold to cyclinder head gasket, not exhaust. I realize now I wasn't clear. Apologies all around. The exhaust manifolds have not been removed (yet), and I hope not to have to
.

Thanks again for the help!

 

It would make sense if there was one but from reading...............

Mine did not have one but the car was poorly maintained by the previous owner



There was someone recently found the manifold downpipe attach studs pointing down loose

Someone gave me a common donut gasket # that I may still have

The pipes as the 2 banks come into1 at the Y pipe junction is 60 mm

 

This is the gasket I'm inquiring about...

https://www.jagbits.com/product/EBC11081.html

Should I be using any type of sealant? When I installed one a couple months ago on this car I installed it dry. Don't know if that could be part of my vacuum leak issue. I have another one coming soon, so I want to be sure it seals. We'll be looking for cracks in the intake manifold while it's apart.

We did check the exhaust manifolds for cracks. Found none, though the donuts were shot. So we installed new donuts. Very quiet now, which is why I don't think it's an exhaust leak causing our issue.

Yes, I need to buy a service manual. I'll check ebay.

Thanks!

Bobby

 

Thanks Parker, msg crossed in transit