While I was out, my Dad has had my XJR on loan mostly so it doesn't sit while I'm driving truck over the road, and while idling in the driveway to charge the battery it just died. Won't even try to crank. P1199 and P1178 are the codes. One of those is timing related I believe, did I just nuke my crank position sensor? I've heard that's common on this vintage of XJ. All lights on the J-gate are illuminated so I don't think it's security.

It did a 2000 mile trip no problems no hiccups recently.

 

A CKPS will NOT keep the starter from cranking the engine.

 

Those are what I was hoping someone would post, thank you.

Tomorrow I will get my day with it, it does crank but no start, I should have specified that. I've been pretty meticulous with maintenance so I think it's probably something simple.

P1199 is fuel level sensor citcuit I've known that one for a bit. Don't think it's a non-starter. P1178 is a lean-out code which possibly could be an intake problem I replaced a lot of that recently and had my hands on everything there so maybe I forgot to tighten something. I'll look at it tomorrow.

 

If it’s cranking then hopefully just a crank sensor gone. Check the volt meter is showing over 11V whilst cranking as that critical for the ECU to fire the injectors.

 

Update, CEL on at start, shuts off when cranking and stays off, tach is moving when it cranks so that rules out the crank sensor. Same codes. Sounded healthy on turn over so I don't think it's timing. Going to check fuel pump relays

 

Checked the relays on the passenger side (USA) by the washer reservoir, swapped them around, all good. Checked fuses and the other relay, all good.

Two observations, fan stays running on the radiator, the passenger side fan. And the low battery light stays on but I have 12.35v at the battery and reading about that much on the dash. It cranks fine, locks work fine, security works, BPM seems to function.

Going to check fuel pump relays, I really hope it isn't the fuel pump, I'm not messing with that! Lol im probably carting it off to the shop anyway for the carrier bearing but I'd like to drive it there instead of towing it.

 

Also I can hear stuff clicking under the dash and at the J-gate when I move the shifter so I think those are working.

I REALLY don't want to take apart the snow slope as I just had all of that apart and don't want to risk cracking it, but if it's that then I have to do what I have to do.

 

Swapped the fuel pump relay and that did nothing, but the fuel pump relay doesn't click when I install it, is it supposed to be hot at all times when the key is set to Run?

 

1 fuel pump should run when cranking. you can jump the other fuel pump relay and see if it starts the car.


pump job is super easy if you grind through the back tray

 

It's in the hands of Rob's Euro Works in Melbourne, FL now. It's blocking my parents driveway and I promised I would have it's fate decided before I left town, they are the caretakers of my cat while I'm out on the road trucking. The afternoon rain has arrived so I've decided to let the professionals handle it. They're doing my carrier bearing too most likely, but some things are out of my league and I'm man enough to admit when I'm in over my head.

 

Well I have my car back and it was in fact the fuel pump relay, what I was swapping around was a relay for something else because they found it to be the secondary fuel pump relay for the one that comes on above 3500rpm. If I had more time to work on it I probably would have found it. He also found corrosion around the relay and a few other areas and cleaned that up. Apparently he also cleared all of my codes because those are gone now. All good though, I also had Rob do my carrier bearing and it is much quieter now, still a small vibration in the driveshaft above 95mph to 105mph but I don't spend a lot of time there for obvious reasons. However, now the tach stops working past 4500rpm I've noticed. Any of you who are fortunate enough to own an XJ220 know what I'm talking about because they do it too. Other than that, the car is fine and it's nice to have it back now.

The next project for me will be the clock and also the radio antenna, my father took it through an automated wash with the radio on I'm sure you can imagine how well that worked. I also want to pay attention to the switch panel on the left side because I'm going to have that door panel off to re-do the plastic trim and the mounts and that switch panel likely had a soda spilled on it because everything is stuck, good thing the AC is cold.

 

The # 2 fuel pump relay is fwd of the battery

I think it is the only one by itself . I don't have the SC engine

See page 19 of the file below for relay # 7

X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)

A swapping option is the trunk relay # 3 accessory relay

You can remove the # 2 fuel pump relay and see if you duplicate your issue

This triggering of the # 2 fuel pump is dependent on the CKPS as the CKPS single signal may be good enough to be discerned for items like ignition timing but not good enough for other things like injector timing

The front face of the CKPS can be cleaned of grim ( worked for someone ) as well as cleaning the connector

The CKPS can fail to function in how it is discerned by some things but not all and not give you a CEL code

An example on the X300 from reading is the # 1 fuel pump enable from the CKPS through the ECU

Fuse X and Y coming

OBD 2 connector short example coming

If you have a good relationship with your parts guy you can ask if you can try one knowing you can return it

Someone in New Zealand with their XJR found a limitation on the engine being the cable to the butterfly not allowing the butterfly to open fully

He was able to see a higher MAF but you are noticing the lacking RPM

There is 2 markings on the cable fwd most mounting before the bell crank labelled as A and M , you may not be able to see

Full throttle runs in the driveway not recommended and thereus a TSB on this for the non supercharged engine and the ZF transmission

This may also apply to your GM transmission in your SC setup

A relay pitting across the internal power contacts ( not allowing enough current to fully power the device ) is a sign the Fuel pump motor is failing

This failure of the fuel pump can also burn the connector pins on the fuel pump itself so is a good idea to inspect