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Good job CK,...MJ, its not so much a hard job, its a patient one. I replaced both primaries and secondaries and when I put mine together the chains were way tighter and I had to guide on the upper and lower cogs simultaneously as opposed to when I took them off.
Be sure to take your oil pan off and check for parts that may have made their way to the pan and/or got sucked up in the pickup.
Its recommended you replace the crank bolt also. Reason being the bolt is torqued so much it is determined torque stress on the threads doesn't make for an ideal reinstall. I didn't replace mine, but I'm just saying.
It doesn't hurt to hit the damper with some PB Blaster or other penetrate and let it sit overnight after bolt removal, ...WD-40 is not a penetrate.
May as well think of replacing the water pump, especially if its original with the plastic vanes and the thermostat housing (again plastic, replacement is metal) and thermostat. Recommend a light coating of Permatex gasket shellac on that water pump. I tried mine dry and one tiny spot caused me 2 more hrs to have to redo mine again...but mine is SC'd.
Not trying to spend your money, but CYA is always the best form of mechanics.
Also, an important note, the torque setting for the earlier A26 engine VVT bolts is 85-92ftlb, but the later A27 VVT bolts (which you have) is hollow and should only be torqued to 62-66ftlb.
Last edited by Carnival Kid; Mar 7, 2020 at 04:32 PM.
HI Guys.
i want to Thank you All for your help and input...
I really do appreciate it . Everything seems Doable with the information you guys provided.
I think before i start ordering parts other than the crank pulley/harmonic Balancer Removal Tool
I going to get it all apart and take a look around make sure i good to move forward.
Ill update this with pictures as soon as i can....
Not a 100% sure why im doing this... Grrrrrr!!! this was going to be for my son...
Because you didn't pay much for the car, you could just drive it as is, the tensioners might last several thousands of miles, maybe even tens of thousands of miles, and if/when they do fail you could just part the car out to recoup some of the purchase price. Of course the tensioners could fail tomorrow too, that is the risk.
You have to weigh up if the car is worth "investing" around $500-$600 in parts and tools, and about 20 hours of labor.
Too late now....
Already started...
I am happy owner of a 02 volvo v70xc AWD and that is something I need living in upstate NY.. I like the simplicity of it and the room to carry all kinds of things... only once did it break on the road.. over 203k now and still going strong.
I'm going to keep on taking it a part and see where it goes...
1st problem so far is the thermostat housing the blind nuts came out with the bolts.
Now one of the water pump bolts is fighting me, got it soaking now...
Ill let you know how it going....
Yes Replacing everything will solve all my problems! lol
Waiting for the tools before I sell any of my organs to buy the parts...
should have the tools this week...
when I 1st got the car and before paying I did a compression test on all the cylinders dry and wet and did a leak down test everything showed very good . I guess it's worth doing the rest... maybe my daughter will take it once I'm done. Who knows...
it's hard to tell from the picture but the Cams aren't lining up... Drivers side passenger side.
my garage is already a disaster Zone
Last edited by Mrjay622; Mar 9, 2020 at 01:11 PM.
Reason: Misspelling
I turned the engine over by hand I can see the the flat surface of the cams are not even on the drivers side passenger side lines up... But maybe I don't know what I'm doing... I'm waiting for the tools...
Yes, because the cams turn at half crank speed you sometimes have to rotate the engine several revolutions to get all 4 cams, and the crank, in the correct timing position, and of course you really need the crank alignment tool to do this. It goes without saying that you should always rotate in normal engine rotation direction.
After you replace those tensioners and guides, drop the oil and take the sump off.
You lost the shoe on that tensioner, and I am sure the rest of it is laying in the pan.
FYI, we have replaced several sets here, always including the chains, most cars were below 100.000km.
Frankly, never seen any difference between the old and new chains though, same length.
Hi Eric.
I plan to drop the oil pan and look around for those bits and just things in general.
As far as the timing chains go ,I've only had experience with and 02 ford f250 SD 5.4L 2 valve and an 08 ford f250 5.4L SD 3 valve motors both needed new tensioners and guides, the 08 needed new phasers also and I did use the same chains over again.. both ran like new. And both with almost 200k on the clock. That's why I asked if the chains were really necessary to replace on the Jag, with less than a 100k on it.
But after looking at getting all the seals ,tensioners,guides separately I think as Carnival kid said it would be a better deal to get an All in one Kit.
Beside if im in this deep why not play it safe and do it all....?
Unless you know a reason why I shouldn't attempt changing the timing chains am I biting off more than I can chew?
Thank you for your input.
Jay
