I have a 98 jaguar xjr.

I need to remove my carpet. seems there is about 2" of standing water under them for some reason. Can anyone please tell me how to remove the chrome side peaces with out damaging them?

 

Maybe gently with a heat gun to loosen the adhesive? The chrome "jaguar" strip is a metallic strip with adhesive backing, once you take that off you can get at the bolts that take off the extruded rail. I don't know how to take the strips out without damaging them, I only tried this on a junkyard car and it just curved the strip in a way that didn't seem reinstallable.

 

As said, heat will help soften things up.
But the trick is to use a strong string of thin rope, like the one you use for kites.
Get a good grip on both ends with a rag to protect your hands, and jigsaw it carefully under the plate, slowly breaking loose the adhesive.
If you are careful, they should not bend.

I can't think of any other way to remove them without damaging them, their surface is very fragile, it will kind of splinter in the top coat.

 

Or you can just buy new treadplate inserts if you kink the metal.

bob

 

Thought the intention of all of us was to prevent damage, in stead of just ripping it out and buy new ones ...

 

I have done the removal of all four shiny treadplates in less than 15 minutes.. Nothing bent out of shape or anything scratched..

Its not chrome.. they are made of stainless steel..

This is a method that is NOT for the weakhearted.. i did it.. but im not certain i can recommend it. Whatever you do.. Think it through first and be very carefull with where you point the flame.. so you dont set fire to your self, the garbage on your floor, the house or the car..


Anyway..


I used a gasdriven barbeque firestarter.. you know.. the gasdriven version of a hot air gun... a gasbottle with a nozzlehead..

-Prepare by carefully remove the plastic ends of the treadplates.

-Get a steel spatula with a wooden handle..


-With the door fully open, and as a precaution, a fireblanket placed as protection just in case you point the flame at the wrong direction... and maybe a bucket of water;


With the flame lit -

1) Begin by carfully heating the rear end of the plate..
2) Get the steel spatula underneith the plate.
3) Apply heat on the plate.
4) As the plate let go from the glue - in one go - move forward with the flame and spatula and remove the plate.. do NOT linger abbout with the flame at the same spot for to long..

This should take less than 10 seconds..

The whole idea is to apply suficcient ammount of heat instantly, and with one swift move, without messing abbout and cooking the whole car, slice it off.. The plate gets so hot (but only for a few seconds, that the glue let go instantly)

The shiny plate comes of undamaged with a slight curve to it with in turn makes it easy to reinstall.

With the shiny stinless steel plate removed.. its another 5 minutes of work removing the aluminum base from the sill..


/E

 

I've used an electric heat gun like a hair dryer and flat paint stripper blade of the correct width to fit the channel.

Heat the whole length of each finisher then focus on one end carefully pushing the blade under and along. You'll find lifting as you go doesn't kink them.

4 torx bolts sit countersunk, once the finisher is off, clear the excess trim tape for re-install.

There are floor pan bungs you can pop out to drain the water then silicone back into place.

Seat removal is simple enough, 4 torx bolts at each runner end, then 2 loom connectors and they're out.

The carpet is heavy and will be even more so loaded with water - it's foam backed and in some places really thick foam that will be holding a lot of water, to get rid of it all the carpet should really be removed and dried at as much as possible, as the inside of the bodyshell isn't rust protected.