Hi,
I am in the process of changing the secondary tensioners in my XJ8. I ordered new metal ones and I am replaceing the old plastic cracked ones at 115,000 miles. My question to anyone that has done this is this...
The new metal ones seem to be designed different from the old ones. The contact rails for the chain seem to be opposite from the originals. In other words, the large curved one is on top for the old one. Its on the bottom for the new one. The shorter flat rail is on the bottom on the old one and on top for the new one. I'm reasonably sure I have right tensioner in the right bank. The parts are not labeled but the bags have the correct part numbers on them. Does anyone know if this is truly the case? Did I somehow get the wrong parts? Am I doing something dumb?
Here are the part numbers I am installing:

C2A 1511X on right(passenger) side
C2A1512X on left(driver) side

Thanks for any help out there.
/rick

 

Welcome to the forum-

Sorry, my parts list does not list those numbers, but I googled them and it sure seems not only are they the right ones,but the designations match the sides you defined.. I assume you know about timing the cams, the zip tye method and so on.

1) The engine runs clockwise
2) The tensioner should have the moving part on the slack side of the chain. The moving part is the side that came with the pin (You know to remove the pin. right?" :<)
3) That neans the left engine side, (right side as you face the engine from in front) has the moveable part up.
4) The right side has the moveable side down.

I assume you know about needing shorter bolts due to the change in tensioner dimension.
You might want to look in the stickys - there are some good step by steps there, with illustrations as I recall.
Good luck and check back if you run into anything. Lots of folks regularly on here have done this job.

Tenacity can overcome good judgement every time, given enough time!

 

sparkenzap
Thanks for the prompt reply. I certainly do appreciate the help.
I am using the zip tye method and things are indeed going well. In fact I would be done if the differences in the new parts didn't create doubt in my mind. Positioning of the movable part of the tensioner you mention agrees with what i am doing here, so that helps. I will look for pictures. Good idea. Hopefully that will put this to rest.

I got shorter bolts. They were surpizingly hard to find. Most of the on line places were sold out. I was able to get 6mX30 instead of the 35 at the local hardware store. These seem plenty long enough.

Yes, I know about the pin. I do have a question though. Since the tensioners are hydrolic, it seems risky to turn the engine over and hope they work till oil pressure builds. I haven't read about problems, but is there something I should do to aleviate this?

Thanks again.

 

Worry not. The Gen II and Gen III tensioners have a spring load- ergo the pin. The tension holds the slack side fine until the pressure builds.
BTW, be sure to tighten the cam bearing caps with a "feel"" and progressively among the caps so as to not put the cam in a strain- It is hollow and can otherwise break.

 

Interesting, I did notice they were hollow as I was trying to get the cam out of the bottom bearing races. It was quite stuck and as I tugged at it I noticed it flexed a bit. It was a bit of a shock. I was not expecting that and I'm glad I wasn't too rough with it. They realy did go out of there way to make that engine light didn't they.

I was able to find a torque spec for the bearing caps of 9-11 Nm. This seemed a bit light. In fact it was the same for the cam covers. Tensioners 10-14. Sound right to you?

Found a diy with great pictures. Shows the tensioners installed and they match what I am seeing. Right hand bank is definitely different from the original one. Link is here if anyone else needs it. Pretty sure I found it on this forum some place.

DIY ~ Jaguar 4.0 (R&R) Timing belt, Tensioners, Water Pump, etc. - Calguns.net

Thanks again.

 

Yes, it does seem light, but it is the right spec. I go to the top end to make me feel good.
Remember, you are threading into aluminum.