OK so here's what happened. Two Fridays ago I went to start my car and it made a clicking noise and would not start. i figured I turned the key to softly or somthing and tried again and it stared fine. Car ran smooth for another week no problems. Then last Friday I got to start and I get the clicking noise again this time it wont turnover after several tries. Figuring it was a dead battery I used another car to jump start it and it worked. So upon my drive home it was running ok then I got off the freeway and it started acting weird. All the electrical systems failed liek that battery went completely dead. I had TCS, ABS and Stability Control failures and no power to windows etc. The car was running ok still for a few mins and I was almost home and it started giving out and only going 5mph with the pedal floored. I made it home and shut it off. Figuring it was a dead battery I went to get a new one but I got it charged and it held the charge and they said it was fine. I put it back in the car and got the clicking noise again and no start. So this morning I tried to start it and it started so I took it to my local mechanic and he looked at it and said it needs a new starter. He wants to charge me $500 for a factory starter plus $395 to put it in. After paying over $1,000 for a new power steering pump and hose I don't wanna pay almost another grand for a starter. So I check Kragen and they only want like $230 for an XJR starter so i am wondering if it would be a goo idea to get it from a place like that myself and find a mechanic who has a decent labor rate to put it in. If anyone has any expirence or advice about this please help me out. Thanks.

 

Sounds like an alternator problem to me. That causes all the odd elec problems.

DR

 

on your car ive only seen1 starter go ever.. this is a common problem you have to check the power points... there are2 mega fuses in the rear.. the nuts come loose and it starts to arch..and melt things.. it's in front of your spare tire.. follow the power cord about 10 inchs... .. then check the power point under hood right side.. you will see a black cord coming from bottom of engine to engine bay cover .. remove cover and one screw.. check the power point usually loose then melt.. which causes intermittent no start and electrical problems... good luck

 

Well I had to get it fixed quickly so I didn't get a chance to read your guys' replies. I found another shop to do a rebuild on it and they said the housing on the starter was cracked so I got out of there paying about $400 total. Thanks for the input thoughguys.

 

jag_genius you are right on. I had a starter problem. Could hear the soleniod click, but that was all. After changing starter I still had the same problem. I followed your advice and found the battery cable connection under the engine compartment (passenger side) was the cause. Cleaned it up and the rest is history. Thanks

 

The assembled multitude appreciate your research and feedback. Everyone benefiting from this forum should be so courteous!

 

Are these 2 megafuses located in the High Power Protection Module?

 

The two fuses are inside a small black box (approx 3x5) in the truck just in front of your spare tire. Just follow the positive battery cable from the battery and you'll find it.

 

Sorry, I meant trunk not truck

 

Cool, I didnt know that was a common problem on those fuses. I can safely say that when mine failed around 150k it was the starter. I put on a Duralast from autozone which was like $169. It would click once and sometimes drag, then on the next try it would barely start. The 3rd time it happened I decided it was time to fix it!

 

I have been having the same problem. I can hear the solenoid click about two months ago and then it went away. Then it started again last night. It would almost turn over and then click again. Tried jump starting it, but that would not work either. Not sure if it the fuses, power points or starter. It has always been a drag to start and occasionally the ABS light, stability lights etc. comes on, but goes back off.

Not sure what to do, but I will check the power point under the engine cover and see if I can get it started. Just wondering if that can be the problem with ABS lights, etc, or is it that and that starter?

 

You can try jumping by going directly to the power point under the hood. Cable goes directly to starter. If it starts OK disassemble the power point on both sides and clean all surfaces.

I also get get the ABS and Stability lights on at random times, even after cleaning power point.

 

I know this thread is old but you guys mind helping me out? Exactly where is the wire that is under the engine compartment? I checked the first power point in the trunk and that one is fine

 

It is the "false bulkhead" connection on front of the box that houses the ecu near the right side hood latch. There should be a rubber 90 degree cover on what may look like a black plastic tube, but is actually the cable. Also, there are similiar cable connections on the underhood fuse boxes.
While you are at it, check the battery ground side strap where it bolts to the fram- look for corrosion. Check the engine to chassis ground strap under the car near the starter.
And good luck!

 

Ooooooh that? Yeah was going to clean it since it looks corroded as f*ck! I was looking so hard for this cable that i was crawling under the engine looking for it hahah! Thanks for the tips! My car sometimes takes two tries to start , and this happens at random times, not just cold starts. Again thanks for the advice!