See lots of people with this problem, just havent found any cures.
I can clear the codes and within minutes of driving have both above codes appear as "pending" then hard codes after about 5 minutes.

Can at idle "lopes" and even dropping in gear can be act like its missing trying to take off. Once I get moving and past that point, I can give it gas and it runs like a bat out of heck, No miss at all.
Short term fuel trim at idle is -7.83 on bank 2 and -04 on bank one.
At around 2000 rpm, short term bank two hits around 0 and bank one hits around +1.
When I listen to the injectors with my probe rod, all injectors soung very good, as far as clicking. No dull noise.
O2 sesnors as per voltage.. bank 1 sensor 2 at idle is .04 and bank 2 sensor 2 says .02 or even lower. I have had voltage in the negative range .
I will double check this when I get back to the shop today.
It seems once i am moving and give it gas, it runs fine. Its when I am sitting that it lopes badly.
Any ideas?
I cleaned out the spark plug wells. and new plugs. I also cleaned the mass air flow, and it actually seemed to make it worse. If the car sits all night, and start it, it seem to run fine , like new, for about 30 seconds and then starts the loping at an idle.
I have searched this forum like crazy and seen many a problems like this, but nothing specific as to an answer of what cures it.

 

What are LTFT per bank, hot engine, parked, at idle & about 2500rpm?

Also, is it running CL on both banks?

What mileage?

Below for acronyms.

 

Update: started car after sitting all night, its 11 degrees this morning, car ran perfect for first 1 minute.
Long term fuel trim (after it starting messing up and being ran for 120 minutes) was -18.75 left bank and -18.30 on right bank. Both banks appears running rich then I take it?
Can not get it to hold 2500 rpms as it stumbles too much. But when I get it there driving, appears to stay around 0 to -1.8
It does go into closed loop.

 

and 130 thousand miles on motor... Car had ran fine but had top radiator hose blow in driveway. Never got hot cause it blew the minute I shut it off. The hose rubbed the valve cover and wore a hole init. Then about 30 miles later is when this all started...

 

this morning when I got to the gas station, the short term was -18% bank 2 and -8% ob bank one. Just came home for lunch and the car was loping bad. Barely got moving down the road. So long as I am in the throttle it seems ok, but the second I level off it lopes.
No other coeds. Wish something would show up so I had a better starting point to go off of.
I am taking it the code 300, random misfire is due to the running rich.

 

Or, the rich trim comes from excess oxygen measured due to misfire! Remember, they are OXYGEN sensors, so with misfire, the bank reads lean and adjusts the mixture to rich via a positive LTFT. I would swap the #1 coil with one on the other bank, reset the codes and see if your misfire moves with the coil.

 

Ok, seeing as how the problem got worse when I cleaned the MAF,I replaced it this morning and the car is running very good now. It doesnt stall and stumble anymore. I have a slight jitterness at idle but I put 2 cans of SeaFoam cleaner in my tank with only 5 gallons of fuel.
SO I am sure thats from that. Lets see how it acts in a couple days after I change the plugs after that cleaner has ran through my system.
Have a great day everyone!

 

Have you eset the codes? And have they returned?

 

Codes reset and have not returned. Have drove the car for about an hour now and all is good. I use a Genesis EVO scanner, same thing as the Mac Mentor and SnapOn machine.
Fuel trims are back to normal! woohoo!

 

Oh, and for the record, I just saw your trims were negative, so that is counter to my observation about the misfire! I am glad you found it.

 

Well coming back home last night, car started stumbling again and threw the codes 300 and 1316 again. darn it!
Heading to the shop now to throw the scanner on it to see what the trims are again. Car ran great for a couple hours after I installed the MAF.
I did notice on the way home on my phone it showed the drivers side upstream O2 sensor was showing "-127 mvolts" the other 2 sensors showed a positive value. I have a new upstream so going to throw that on it today and see what happens...

 

P1316 is specific to the #1 cylinder... I suspect you may have a problem there.

 

Heres screen shots of my scanner with car at idle. The last photo is with car at 2500 rpm's

 

Swap the coil!

 

Those screen shots don't look to have those big -ve LTFTs. Those would indeed mean rich and so PCM is reducing fuel (realtive to what it would expect).

You normally get lean codes for misfires. It's because the O2 sensors see the unburned mixture but can only see the O2. They cannot tell there's also fuel so the PCM adds more. Your -18 trims say it's doing the opposite.

But with P0300 you've got misfires. I guess they could happen due to being so rich the fuel can't burn.

On the later cars like mine (2004 STR), P1316 is a multiple misfire code for severe misfires that are so bad they're damaging the cat(s). Being a P1 code it is allowed to mean something different on any other model but do check what it actually is for yours because Jaguar don't tend to be as inconsistent as they're allowed to be.

Typical causes of running rich are: bad MAF, leaky injectors, bad O2 sensor.

More typical cause of misfire when running lean is a bad coil.

 

Thanks and yeah I added the MAf yesterday so the high negative trim numbers are gone now.
Today I cleaned the coils, put a new coil on number one and installed a new O2 sensor on bank one, upstream, and these are the readings after I did that. When it sits there it acts as if it loads up. So I will pull the injectors and check them tomorrow. Other than pulling the cat off I think its all about covered. Just it can get to bucking so bad. Wish it had misfire mode like most obd2 cars did so I could watch what cylinders are misfiring when its happening. plus I like being able to pull up a history of the cylinders to see how and when they each misfired.

 

You seem to have eliminated most factors which could cause your problem.
Perhaps a faulty fuel pressure regulator, causing excess fuel pressure, or if it has an internal leak, throwing raw fuel into the engine.
From memory should be about 32psi at idle, and 42 when working.
Research shows P1316 to be a problem with the IDM; injector drive module.

 

thanks fredd60, will do. I had to put a fuel pump in this 2 years ago.