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Yes, I know. I understand why people put oil in the cylinders but it also coats the plugs with oil. You had mentioned the engine started up but quickly stalled out. Maybe the compression momentarily restored and was able to run just in time for the oil to coat the plugs is why I mentioned about them being wet. I’d personally remove the plugs and spray them off with brake cleaner if there’s MM oil on them, reinstall the plugs and continue to charge the battery until it’s fully charged then try to start the engine. Don’t go chasing random relays because you’ll end up going crazy. Let’s just focus on plugs and battery charge for now.
Yes, I know. I understand why people put oil in the cylinders but it also coats the plugs with oil. You had mentioned the engine started up but quickly stalled out. Maybe the compression momentarily restored and was able to run just in time for the oil to coat the plugs is why I mentioned about them being wet. I’d personally remove the plugs and spray them off with brake cleaner if there’s MM oil on them, reinstall the plugs and continue to charge the battery until it’s fully charged then try to start the engine. Don’t go chasing random relays because you’ll end up going crazy. Let’s just focus on plugs and battery charge for now.
okok thanks, will do. I hear u man, i was gonna post pictures because i’m not experienced enough to read plugs. But they’ll probably just show they’re gunked up by the MM oil.
Whenever you get around to doing a restart, take note on how the engine sounds while cranking. Why? Because this is sounding more like a flooded (by fuel) engine that lost compression because the battery was probably marginal the first time you went to start it without any known faults. It probably turned over a touch slower than usual and too much fuel went into the cylinders and washed the oil (and compression) off the walls. I do remember that you and your friend replaced the pumps.
Whenever you get around to doing a restart, take note on how the engine sounds while cranking. Why? Because this is sounding more like a flooded (by fuel) engine that lost compression because the battery was probably marginal the first time you went to start it without any known faults. It probably turned over a touch slower than usual and too much fuel went into the cylinders and washed the oil (and compression) off the walls. I do remember that you and your friend replaced the pumps.
Okok will do, yes you’re right it was turning over super slow then i found out my alternator was seized. turns over great now but i can see how it probably flooded the engine.thanks
There may be no statement regarding the "requirement to touch the positive
terminal with the disconnected negative cable" although the practice is logical
to discharge those capacitors which are retaining charge. If one has an aversion
to that idea, one might simply wait about thirty minutes before reconnecting.
Does the positive cable have to be on the positive battery post when you touch the positive post with the ground wire? Also does it have to be connected when I wait the 30 min.
Also i can’t follow the entire procedure following the reset. which ones are important in my scenario? Should i just do all that i’m able to
Last edited by 03_jaaag; May 26, 2024 at 03:57 PM.
Does the positive cable have to be on the positive battery post when you touch the positive post with the ground wire? Also does it have to be connected when I wait the 30 min.
Also i can’t follow the entire procedure following the reset. which ones are important in my scenario? Should i just do all that i’m able to
Just disconnect the battery and hold the pos to the neg, this discharges the caps that hold the memory for your ECU.
posted the before and afters. to be honest, the before sounds the same as the resets except that it sounds like one cylinder is trying to fire up. probably on the MM oil. did the trick of flooring it and starting it for 20s 6 times and then started it with foot off the pedal still nothing. pressed the schrader valve after and some gas came out then nothing, also not a lot of pressure. is that normal? i read it’s supposed to spray out like mist almost. last time i tested the schrader valve i pressed it a little and got the same result. i thought that i just didn’t press the valve in all the way to get to the mist. maybe fuel line leak?
Last edited by 03_jaaag; May 28, 2024 at 07:42 PM.
It is possible that you have low fuel pressure so you should check it with a pressure gauge. Is your FPR good? Since the fuel port is difficult to access, I made two "special tools" - a push-on tube to remove the cap from the fuel port and a pressure gauge with extended screw-on fitting (as I have just sold my Super V8, I will be listing the shown pressure gauge on Ebay later today).
It is possible that you have low fuel pressure so you should check it with a pressure gauge. Is your FPR good? Since the fuel port is difficult to access, I made two "special tools" - a push-on tube to remove the cap from the fuel port and a pressure gauge with extended screw-on fitting (as I have just sold my Super V8, I will be listing the shown pressure gauge on Ebay later today).
Thanks i’ll check it out. can you send a link to your parts please. i will try with some adapters i have. is the fuel pressure at the schrader valve the same for na and s/c engines? it’s 40psi, right? do i test the FPR with the gauge and look for 40psi as well?
Jagbits has a used one listed for $275. There's one on the engine I pulled from my 2000 XJR. Yours for the postage if you want it - seriously. I'd sooner help out someone here than list it on eBay. Car ran, but not well for reasons unrelated to FPR, when I pulled it for my LS swap. PM me if interested. Could save you some serious coin...
Jagbits has a used one listed for $275. There's one on the engine I pulled from my 2000 XJR. Yours for the postage if you want it - seriously. I'd sooner help out someone here than list it on eBay. Car ran, but not well for reasons unrelated to FPR, when I pulled it for my LS swap. PM me if interested. Could save you some serious coin...
Haha i saw that, that’s nuts. i also saw a used one on ebay but it looked worse than mine. that’s awesome man i appreciate that, i’ll send you a pm
how do i remove the throttle cable? never worked on this style before and ws manual isn’t detailed on that part. do i just remove the screw on the throttle lever? (circled in red)
There's one on the engine I pulled from my 2000 XJR. Yours for the postage if you want it - seriously. I'd sooner help out someone here than list it on eBay. Car ran, but not well for reasons unrelated to FPR, when I pulled it for my LS swap. PM me if interested. Could save you some serious coin...
