its more than a little low it stays a quarter way will warm up if car is not moving for like 45 mins and once I drive it cools down ( symptoms of a stuck open thermostat)

the thing is after all this work how does my expansion tank crack, I just feel like something isn't working right in my coolant system, is that made of the same material as the thermostat housing that was original? if so that may be why it cracked (its time to go after 16 years)

 

I had to look this one up:
"perfidious"
adjective
1.deliberately faithless; treacherous; deceitful:
example: a "perfidious" lover.

I guess you meant "profusely?"

A few more paragraph breaks will get you more reads and responses too.

You are new here, welcome to the friendliest auto forum on the web!

For future posts try to remember that someone has to voluntarily read what you are writing. An endless stream of misspelled words with minimal punctuation and no breaks will usually result in most of us passing on reading your posts.

Vector

 

"the thing is after all this work how does my expansion tank crack, I just feel like something isn't working right in my coolant system, is that made of the same material as the thermostat housing that was original? if so that may be why it cracked (its time to go after 16 years)"

Probably just coincidence. It's perfectly normal for the thermostat housing and the header tank to fail at the age and mileage of your car. The plastic and rubber cooling system components have a limited life.

They both failed on my 2002 in the last year, so to fail on your 98 is not a surprise.

Sorry to report, but the water pump, and all the hoses probably aren't far behind.

Remember that the cooling system runs at pressure, not sure exactly but about 15 psi above atmosphere. This is to prevent boiling. The boiling temperature at 15 psi is 250F vs. 212 at atmosphere. The system pressure is controlled by the cap on the header tank tank, which opens at 15 psi approx. Unfortunately, all those pressure cycles, every time you drive, take their toll on plastic and rubber components. Imagine them bring inflated to 2 times atmospheric pressure, and back, each drive cycle. Plus, the plastic gets more brittle as it gets older.

 

I can write prose with the best of them, but it's alarming to go back and see what the iPad spell-checker has done!

 

We like nice prose on the forum, lol!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...gned-up-22253/

Item 6 from "Tips for Successful Threads:"
"Please DON'T write your posts with long unbroken lines of texts that go on & on. There'a almost nothing worse & makes the whole post unreadable. Please DO be sure to create line breaks and space out your text, this will ensure members read and hopefully reply, helping you with your issues."

Vector

 

As my high school English teacher used to say, PARAGRAPHS!

 

Soooooooooo, you have been warned before, eh? lol.

Really, lately we are having a rash of these types of posts because it is an accepted way to write short text messages.

But when you write something long, with a lot of info, the lack of punctuation and paragraphs makes it hard to read.

Because posts like this are difficult to read, many members will pass them by and you will not get good answers to your questions.

Your high school teacher was right and this is why - readability. Think of me as your "adult life" English teacher.

This forum is notoriously friendly, especially to newcomers. For that reason we try to read and respond to all posts.

On another, non-car forum I frequent, the members will respond to a run on post with a simple "I am not reading your unreadable post." Other forums have self appointed "grammar" and "punctuation" police too, I don't want to go there. As long as a post is readable we are all OK with it here.

Vector

 

Roger profusely perfidious (and iPad and Siri ^^^^ing up great prose -- been there). And need for short concise paragraphs.

Gabe: did it get fixed? Have you changed out the header tank (it is the header tank that is leaking, ne?)? Going to be real difficult to hold pressure with a busted tank. You have confirmed the correct routing of the overflow tubes? Is the 'Italian' tech a keeper?

Where are you with this problem?

 

Confirmed cracked today ordered one today. New thermostat is here tomorrow and replaced water pump with temp housing for preventive maintaince for extra 50$ For the water pump no extra labor

 

Seems like he's a keeper knows what he's doing. Called me this morning told me it is Infact cracked so I put In the order. Said everything looks to be working besides the thermostat (will be here tomorrow). So hopefully I am done for a bit with repairs after this

 

Now you've done it! Never say done for a bit, it's a Jag.

 

Haha! That's why I just bought a 2014 impala for my daily driver and I'll have the jag for leisure rather than my daily

 

The most hijacked thread yet! Did you get the car fixed?

 

Should be done monday, wellI hope so lol

Less than 2 hour job

 

Well new thermostat did not fix it, bought an OEM from jag, got it today and will be finished tomorrow, shop owner said he can get to car temp by blocking hoses (what thermostat does) he said the welsh thermostat is opening to early, I called welsh and the guy tried to tell me I was wrong, when and if this OEM thermostat fixes it I will be calling welsh for my refund

 

The Welsh thermostat I had in my XK8 for the past 2+ years started opening too early, had trouble getting to 185. I replaced it with a Gates and now running 190-195.

I do wonder how much error there is thermostats, is anyone actually testing them.

 

Of course, if you wish to test the thermostat, a thermometer and a pan of water on the stove top is all you need. Oh yeah- best done when the cook is absent.

 

Meat thermometer and turkey baster are two handy auto repair tools and they can just go in the dishwasher.

 

Well! I'm done... it should belong to folks that have plenty $$ and patience and I'm missing both.

 

The problem with testing a thermostat in a pan is that it opens over a temperature range. I compared the one that gave me an operating temp of 175-185 with the one that operates at 190-195, and could hardly see a difference. They both begin opening at a little over 170.
If I were back in a chemistry lab with a digital thermometer and heating system with more control than my stove, I could probably make more accurate observations. But even there, a small change in the opening results in a large change in the flow rate, so it's hard to quantify.