Amp/sub install wfactory stereo (XJ8)
#21
This should be VERY simple....
If your Jag has the rear factory sub, Crutchfield sells speaker adapters that will tap right into the factory harness. Run these to the speaker level inputs of an aftermarket amp (in my case an Alpine MRP-M500). Amp install kit, connect right to the battery (very convenient in the boot). Remote turn-on lead to the power antenna via inline splice (also very conveniently in the boot). Mount the amp to your sub box (in my case a Q-logic box with a pair of Polk Audio 12s). Bada Bing, should be crankin! I will let everyone know what it sounds like when it's done. BTW, I have a pair of factory 6x9 Alpine dual-coil subs for sale if you just want to "fix what you got"... One is NOS that I've been running for about 6 months, the other is my original that had surround rot and I replaced the foam surround with a butyl rubber one. Let me know if you are interested!
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Badbenz94 (01-27-2014)
#22
Looks like quite a few folks wanting just a little bit bass.
Can we get a few install pictures of those who've completed the project?
Feedback on bass travel to the cab (since the gas tank blocks off a lot and porting through the rear deck might be required to get the bass from point A (trunk) to point B (cabin).
Post those install pics!!
Can we get a few install pictures of those who've completed the project?
Feedback on bass travel to the cab (since the gas tank blocks off a lot and porting through the rear deck might be required to get the bass from point A (trunk) to point B (cabin).
Post those install pics!!
#26
#27
Thought I would share what I did with my XJ8 I just got a couple months ago:
I soon realized that the original subwoofer on the rear deck was out of commission. (perished foam surround upon further inspection.) So I decided to install a powered Infinity Basslink sub I'd taken out of another car a few years ago.
With the use of a Line-Out Converter (with remote amp turn-on signal), all the wiring takes place in the trunk. My car has the trunk mounted factory amp, so it was just a matter of splicing the line-in signal for the LOC from one of the speaker wires coming out of the factory amp.
I am far from any sort of serious audiophile, but the sub works great as far as I'm concerned. Eventhough there is no direct porting from the trunk into the cabin, there is more than enough bass that can be heard and felt. I think I read somewhere once that, in this type of installation, the entire trunk cavity becomes a sealed enclosure, and somehow resonates the sound waves through the car structure?
LOC that I used:
I soon realized that the original subwoofer on the rear deck was out of commission. (perished foam surround upon further inspection.) So I decided to install a powered Infinity Basslink sub I'd taken out of another car a few years ago.
With the use of a Line-Out Converter (with remote amp turn-on signal), all the wiring takes place in the trunk. My car has the trunk mounted factory amp, so it was just a matter of splicing the line-in signal for the LOC from one of the speaker wires coming out of the factory amp.
I am far from any sort of serious audiophile, but the sub works great as far as I'm concerned. Eventhough there is no direct porting from the trunk into the cabin, there is more than enough bass that can be heard and felt. I think I read somewhere once that, in this type of installation, the entire trunk cavity becomes a sealed enclosure, and somehow resonates the sound waves through the car structure?
LOC that I used:
#28
Wire colors
Thought I would share what I did with my XJ8 I just got a couple months ago:
I soon realized that the original subwoofer on the rear deck was out of commission. (perished foam surround upon further inspection.) So I decided to install a powered Infinity Basslink sub I'd taken out of another car a few years ago.
With the use of a Line-Out Converter (with remote amp turn-on signal), all the wiring takes place in the trunk. My car has the trunk mounted factory amp, so it was just a matter of splicing the line-in signal for the LOC from one of the speaker wires coming out of the factory amp.
I am far from any sort of serious audiophile, but the sub works great as far as I'm concerned. Eventhough there is no direct porting from the trunk into the cabin, there is more than enough bass that can be heard and felt. I think I read somewhere once that, in this type of installation, the entire trunk cavity becomes a sealed enclosure, and somehow resonates the sound waves through the car structure?
LOC that I used:
Amazon.com: PAC SOEM-T 2-Channel Premium Line-Out Converter with Remote Turn-On Trigger: Automotive
I soon realized that the original subwoofer on the rear deck was out of commission. (perished foam surround upon further inspection.) So I decided to install a powered Infinity Basslink sub I'd taken out of another car a few years ago.
With the use of a Line-Out Converter (with remote amp turn-on signal), all the wiring takes place in the trunk. My car has the trunk mounted factory amp, so it was just a matter of splicing the line-in signal for the LOC from one of the speaker wires coming out of the factory amp.
I am far from any sort of serious audiophile, but the sub works great as far as I'm concerned. Eventhough there is no direct porting from the trunk into the cabin, there is more than enough bass that can be heard and felt. I think I read somewhere once that, in this type of installation, the entire trunk cavity becomes a sealed enclosure, and somehow resonates the sound waves through the car structure?
LOC that I used:
Amazon.com: PAC SOEM-T 2-Channel Premium Line-Out Converter with Remote Turn-On Trigger: Automotive
#29
#30
You could, but the power coming from the factory amp to feed the factory sub, might not be as satisfactory as you hope. I'm not sure what the specs are, in all honesty, so I can't speculate further.
#31
#32
Couldn't I just get a small 2 channel amp just in front of the sub to give it a little more power?
#33
Oh certainly could. You might need a level converter if you're using the factory "sub" wiring as a source signal depending on the amp. I've had mixed luck with them, but at least then you would have a dedicated power source that will likely push more than the factory amp would.
#34
#35
#36
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larney (09-02-2016)
#37
So I guess this might seem like a stupid question. Since the DVC speakers are hard to find how hard would it be to mount a second 6X9 woofer back there? I know you'd have to cut a second hole in the rear deck and of course the package tray itself. But since there's two sets of speaker wires back there and if you don't buy some power hungry speaker wouldn't this be an option? Am I missing something?
#38
Dual Voice Coil Speaker - 140 Watts - Ford | eBay
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larney (09-03-2016)
#39
larney,
You can't install another 6X9 on the other side of the shelf because of the gas tank. If you actually removed the trunk carpeting that covers the gas tank, you'll see what I mean. They actually made an indentation on the top of the tank to accomidate the one 6X9.
Stu,
As long as that speaker is an 8 ohm range and it's shallow enough to install, then it should be ok. I did not see any technical references on that particular speaker other than it fits 1960-1962 fords. Not very specific at all.
You can't install another 6X9 on the other side of the shelf because of the gas tank. If you actually removed the trunk carpeting that covers the gas tank, you'll see what I mean. They actually made an indentation on the top of the tank to accomidate the one 6X9.
Stu,
As long as that speaker is an 8 ohm range and it's shallow enough to install, then it should be ok. I did not see any technical references on that particular speaker other than it fits 1960-1962 fords. Not very specific at all.
The following users liked this post:
larney (09-03-2016)