Calling -rear ruspension/ wheel bearing experts
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 41
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Of course!
I had been thinking the pivot bearings would display mainly 12 o'clock/6 o'clock movement, but after having a look at your "rear end wiggle" repair post, it came to me that that notion was incorrect. That pivot assembly of yours was almost beyond belief! Given you could not get the hub carrier off, it was most fortunate that you did not need wheel bearings.
I appreciate your guidance, and as noted I will check end float on the other side when I get a moment, then monitor from time to time to see if the condition worsens... and keep an eye out for output shaft bearings that don't cost $320.00 + Seals and collar!
I still wonder if you get to zero movement with everything in new condition... output shaft, wheel and pivot bearings.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 118
Likes: 43
From: Tampa, FL
Update
Wayne,
It has been a while since I was on here, but I have been trying to track down a hum noise from the rear of the car. Did you get the pivot bearing replaced and did that cure the movement. I was wondering if my hum noise may be related to the pivot bearing going bad, or if I have more problems in my rear differential. If you have an update that would be great.
Thanks,
Jeff
It has been a while since I was on here, but I have been trying to track down a hum noise from the rear of the car. Did you get the pivot bearing replaced and did that cure the movement. I was wondering if my hum noise may be related to the pivot bearing going bad, or if I have more problems in my rear differential. If you have an update that would be great.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 41
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Jeff,
If you are getting a low pitched hum, I suppose you may have a bearing issue. I had that on the front wheel bearing. If you test the movement on your wheels, as I did you may get a better indication.
The only hum I was getting seemed more related to the diff. It was a bit of a whirring noise when letting off the gas at highway speed. I did change the oil and went to a full synthetic. The whirring noise is greatly reduced. I sucked all the old oil out with a vacuum pump and measured it. It was not low, but the new oil seemed to help. My only sin was using a low cost product made by a local lubricant company. The product does have the approval of the Dana Corp, who I believe makes the diff.
I the end I did not do anything further that was bearing related except check the end play on the output shafts. I only had about .002" of end play on both sides and only vertical movement on the wheels. A couple of people with more knowledge on the topic did offer the opinion that a small amount of vertical movement is OK, especially since the axle does act as the upper control arm. If you have lateral movement and significant vertical movement, it would be good to investigate further.
Hope that helps... good luck
If you are getting a low pitched hum, I suppose you may have a bearing issue. I had that on the front wheel bearing. If you test the movement on your wheels, as I did you may get a better indication.
The only hum I was getting seemed more related to the diff. It was a bit of a whirring noise when letting off the gas at highway speed. I did change the oil and went to a full synthetic. The whirring noise is greatly reduced. I sucked all the old oil out with a vacuum pump and measured it. It was not low, but the new oil seemed to help. My only sin was using a low cost product made by a local lubricant company. The product does have the approval of the Dana Corp, who I believe makes the diff.
I the end I did not do anything further that was bearing related except check the end play on the output shafts. I only had about .002" of end play on both sides and only vertical movement on the wheels. A couple of people with more knowledge on the topic did offer the opinion that a small amount of vertical movement is OK, especially since the axle does act as the upper control arm. If you have lateral movement and significant vertical movement, it would be good to investigate further.
Hope that helps... good luck
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 8
From: Sweden, Karlstad
Wayne,
It has been a while since I was on here, but I have been trying to track down a hum noise from the rear of the car. Did you get the pivot bearing replaced and did that cure the movement. I was wondering if my hum noise may be related to the pivot bearing going bad, or if I have more problems in my rear differential. If you have an update that would be great.
Thanks,
Jeff
It has been a while since I was on here, but I have been trying to track down a hum noise from the rear of the car. Did you get the pivot bearing replaced and did that cure the movement. I was wondering if my hum noise may be related to the pivot bearing going bad, or if I have more problems in my rear differential. If you have an update that would be great.
Thanks,
Jeff
Please search my id and see post about diff noise, in my case it was only that the input shaft nut was needed to be re-torqued, that also made a humming noise in highway speeds, but not in town.. Good luck!
PS, I am also to change pinion bearings as they are noisy and the car has this strange rear wiggle when going over white lines...
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
From: Lithuania
A couple of questions here...
I had the rear wheels on my 98 XJR off the ground today and gave the wheels a shake to see if there was any play in them. I may be mistaken, but thought that in the past they were pretty solid. Today, both sides had some play in them. I am guessing I could rock the top of the wheel in and out by maybe 1/4". It felt as if the lug nuts were slightly loose, which of course were not.
I think I read somewhere on this forum where it was suggested that 1/4" was acceptable. My question is... is it acceptable, or normal?
After finding the play I crawled under for a look. The only place I could see slight movement was at the hub carrier pivot bolt and maybe a tiny amount on the outboard u-joint on the drivers side...( other than the wheel movement)
That movement aside, I have suspected a few things in the rear suspension as the rear wheels sometimes seem to slam down pretty hard when encountering rough road. (which is somewhat annoying). I know the XJR's are supposed to be stiffer than regular XJ's but mine can be pretty rough on some conditions. That and some clunking that occurs if I accelerate quickly in reverse from a stop. I rarely do that, but it will cause an audible clunk pretty consistently.
I guess I could be heading for another major project, which would take some resolve for me to tackle. For now, there are no real handling issues, but the fact that I can move those wheels is troubling. Perhaps wheel bearings or pivot pin bearings... or is the 1/4" play normal?
I had the rear wheels on my 98 XJR off the ground today and gave the wheels a shake to see if there was any play in them. I may be mistaken, but thought that in the past they were pretty solid. Today, both sides had some play in them. I am guessing I could rock the top of the wheel in and out by maybe 1/4". It felt as if the lug nuts were slightly loose, which of course were not.
I think I read somewhere on this forum where it was suggested that 1/4" was acceptable. My question is... is it acceptable, or normal?
After finding the play I crawled under for a look. The only place I could see slight movement was at the hub carrier pivot bolt and maybe a tiny amount on the outboard u-joint on the drivers side...( other than the wheel movement)
That movement aside, I have suspected a few things in the rear suspension as the rear wheels sometimes seem to slam down pretty hard when encountering rough road. (which is somewhat annoying). I know the XJR's are supposed to be stiffer than regular XJ's but mine can be pretty rough on some conditions. That and some clunking that occurs if I accelerate quickly in reverse from a stop. I rarely do that, but it will cause an audible clunk pretty consistently.
I guess I could be heading for another major project, which would take some resolve for me to tackle. For now, there are no real handling issues, but the fact that I can move those wheels is troubling. Perhaps wheel bearings or pivot pin bearings... or is the 1/4" play normal?
1. Both rear wheels are a little bit loose (has play at 12 and 6 o'clock direction).
2. When going throught big bump/pit the car swings side to side more than it should.
3. Sometimes there is a metal to metal "click" sound from rear when i start moving from full stop (reverse or forward).
4. When moving the wheel 12/6 o'clock there is slight movement in propshaft.
Any help would be appreciated!
Last edited by belamor; Aug 30, 2014 at 06:12 AM.
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 120,439
Likes: 17,009
From: Durham, UK
Hi, i have simmilar issue with my x308 LWB. Here goes the symptoms:
1. Both rear wheels are a little bit loose (has play at 12 and 6 o'clock direction).
2. When going throught big bump/pit the car swings side to side more than it should.
3. Sometimes there is a metal to metal "click" sound from rear when i start moving from full stop (reverse or forward).
4. When moving the wheel 12/6 o'clock there is slight movement in propshaft.
Any help would be appreciated!
1. Both rear wheels are a little bit loose (has play at 12 and 6 o'clock direction).
2. When going throught big bump/pit the car swings side to side more than it should.
3. Sometimes there is a metal to metal "click" sound from rear when i start moving from full stop (reverse or forward).
4. When moving the wheel 12/6 o'clock there is slight movement in propshaft.
Any help would be appreciated!
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Graham
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 8
From: Columbus Ohio
I had the same issues!! I replaced the wheel bearings and an output shaft bearing. I can tell you from experience never working on an independent rear end car that it is a hard little job! First off be warned you will have many washers that are critical to reassembly of the new wheel bearing. I have a thread documenting my progress. Basically I lost the shims that go on the hub between the bearings and that messed up the bearing preload and wore out one of my u joints. As far as the output shaft bearing... That is way too expensive! I got one from a donor car with 40k miles and it worked great. I spent $90 and all you have to do it remove the 4 nuts that hold the inner axle rod onto the axle shaft sticking out of the diff. From there all that holds the axle shaft in the diff is a snap ring. Pop that off and hook a slide hammer to the axle shaft and use the nuts to hold it on. Then bang it out... A series of small bangs works better than banging real hard! Once it pops out just reverse the procedure. Easy! You may also want to check the bolt on the bottom of the hub carrier. It has an offset 18mm head on one side and a 22mm nut on the other. Make sure it is tight because the carrier pivots on that bolt. Good luck!!
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