Quick update:

• Sent the Injectors off to SD over at Jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com
  • 2 Injectors were in rough shape with 1 being stuck open, both of those are being replaced
  • All of the other injectors were cleaned and now flowing in spec
  • Should be here tomorrow!
• I've got the old "Octopus" water lines pulled, definitely glad I've decided to do it while I'm down this far and the old one seemed to be every bit of 20 years old
  • The "T-Barb" coming from the Octopus Hose looks like the T junction has broken, any ideas on where to get a replacement?
• Both new manifold gaskets have been installed, took the opportunity to take a images of the valves, and from a visual standpoint they looks good
• Both knock sensors have been replaced with new OEM Denso's
  • The passenger side plug to the main harness was being held in by a zip tie and will need to have the plug replaced like the water temperature plug
• When removing the old water line, the OEM Denso Water Valve barbs essentially disintegrated. Not exactly shocked considering the age of the car and plastic barb fittings
  • Any options here outside of buying an OEM replacement? From what I've researched I can just directly connect the upper and lower hoses together for the time being?
    • In the summer just block off the flow to the heater core?

 

Since your having fun with your coolant system, an upgrade to the higher flow Bosch 0392022010 inter-cooler pump may be something to think about. This is a common upgrade and the pump is from Merc and used on the AMG's. Plus, your there, the fan shroud is out and its accessible.

Also, I know it was a bit ago, but if you haven't put oil in the motor yet, pull the pan and check the oil pickup for parts. Be sure to run your finger around thoroughly to sweep out any pieces of the guides and such blockages, it's only a bout a 45-60 minute job. For the poor maintenance that has been done on your gal, a bit of preventative measure doesn't hurt, you've come this far.

BTW, those early 80's turbo charged 4 banger Mustangs were wicked quick and a handful if they got loose...top end sucked though. I've had (2) 67's, (1) 69, (1) 89 and I'm dying to afford the new GTR ($300k, ouch). I'm hoping they have one at the Rolex 24 when I'm there. The Black Horse is sweet, but the GTR... "....sweet dreams are made of these, ..who am to disagree..."

 

Yep, already have the Bosch in hand, I figured the same thing that I'm down this far. Also, I've found a replacement for the plastic barb that goes in to the Octopus hose (https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20..._junction.html). Also, I went ahead and picked up a cheap replacement Heater Water Valve and will keep the other one as a spare for electrical components.

If the car runs as well as I expect, I'd like to start tackling a refresh of the suspension components outside of the new struts and shocks that I've put on it. Figure at this point, it could probably use new bushings and ball joints just for peace of mind.

Yeah, the 84 Turbo GT Convertible in the background has become one heck of a fun daily driver with all of the work I've put in to it. There's an 84 SVO that's in a few of the background images that I'm in the process of throwing a 2.3 Ecoboost in to which should make for an amazing sporty car with as light as it is!

 

Hey guys,

In the event needed that someone needs to replace the Female plugs on the Harness Side of the Knock Sensors they are TYCO/AMP 344276-1's (Link: https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1228).

 

That is a really good find CGT!

 

This is a great thread. I will be referencing this (and others!) when I dig into the original engine from my '00 XJR once the LS swap is completed. Will need to keep my hands busy at that point and having the engine on a stand will make all of this that much easier to do. So far, although it only has 109k miles, I know the pulled engine will need a water pump (strong evidence of leaking) and since the chains/guides are of unknown status, I'll replace them to make for either a "ready to go" engine for sale to keep another XJR/XKR alive or spare for the '01 XJR.

 

Hey guys,

Been a lot of progress that I'll add some pictures on at a later time, but had a huge question. I went ahead and performed another smoke test before putting the throttle body back on, and found that the exact noise still exists! Every gasket has been replaced from the Elbow back, including both gaskets to the adapter plate.

I can confirm that it's NOT leaking from the valve gasket, nor the Supercharger snorkel. Everything is torqued to spec as per the documentation, and have absolutely no clue why that exact same leak would be there. Anyone have any insight at all? I'm completely baffled at this point. Here's both videos for a quick reference.

 

Alright, have everything pulled back down, and started smoke testing with just the charge pipe on and low and behold a leak at around number LH1. Pulling off the Fuel Rail (for the first time) and it looks like the seal around LH1 wasn't even mating looking at clean the contact area is compared to 2, 3 and 4. Also, I noticed a bit of debris in there as well from the replaced plastic injector.

The fuel rail also looks...slight bent upward near LH1? Not sure if that happened when the last time someone had taken the car a part. It appears that this is where the main vacuum leak is coming from.

 

It’s hard to imagine that the plastic fuel rail is bent but, it’s plastic after all. I’m assuming that you’ll be installing new fuel injector seals and retesting? The injector seals should be installed in the intake manifold first then putting a gel type lubricant like Vaseline on the sides of the injector tips.

 

I pulled the rail off completely a few minutes ago, absolutely crazy but it's extremely bent! I took a deep look and noticed that the Green Seal was barely contacting in LH1 and decided to pull the rail and sit it on a flat surface.

Not sure at all how it happened. Is the entire rail made of plastic?

 

Wow! Somebody really f’d that thing up good! Not too sure what could be done about it other than getting another fuel rail assembly for it….. not unless you’re ‘crafty’! 😂 I have a few ideas but, I can’t share them as I don’t want to be responsible if your car catches fire.

 

No worries, thanks A2B! What I think happened is they over torqued the bolt closes to the front of the engine which caused it to warp.

From what I can see it's an aluminum core with a overlay. I was able to get it to lay perfectly flat after some "Persuading" but am going to try a few things to ensure it stays that way and will update in a bit. This explains everything though and why this was such a difficult thing to track down.

The good news is, all of the seals / gaskets are new and the timing chains have been updated, so once this is sorted, it should be good to go!

 

Quick update for the evening. I've gone ahead and sourced a replacement Fuel Rail along with new Fuel Injector seals that should be here next week After working on the rail for a fair bit and not having any real success of getting it to seal appropriately when bolted in, I figure getting it replaced is the correct thing to do as I definitely don't want to have them push back out while under boost.

 

Even the new one does not look exactly true.

 

Randy, that’s the same bent rail after he persuaded it. The replacement rail will be in next week.

CGT, I don’t know if over torquing the fuel rail bolts will deform it to curve it that bad. I think somebody pried up or even tried putting a ratchet strap there to maybe lift the engine out of the car??? Even if the engine over heated I don’t think it could do that. That’s just my opinion though. Can’t wait to see you get that back on the road and enjoying it.

 

Yeah, no idea A2B on how someone bent it up so bad. And you're totally right, that's after me "Persuading it" as much as I could. Hopefully it'll be back on the road in driving order late next week!

 

Hey guys,

Quick update. She lives! I still need to install the Bosche pump and bleed the coolant system completed (should be Tuesday), but the engine sounds significantly better! Also, the loud noise in the video is an Idler pulley bearing that is on the way out. I have a new set coming in shortly that I'll install. It quieted down significantly though as it was running a bit more as evident from the second video.

While waiting for the fuel rails to show up, I went ahead and had the Air Chargers an V8 Cover plate powder coated which looks super good in my opinion. Also, I went ahead and replaced all of the Fuel Rail Injector Seals for good measure.

After a quick smoke test, it doesn't appear to have any noticeable leaks; but will keep my eye on it. There's still a fair bit of little work that needs to be done all over the place, but we're off to a half way decent start!

 

That looks awesome! Glad to hear you’re getting it sorted out.

Let’s hope you got those intercoolers throughly burped out seeing as that 17mm Allen cap is in place and not scratched up.

Keep us posted.

 

Quick update,

I went out to do a quick test start on the car last night (temps in the midwest are -5ish) and I absolutely cannot get the car to start. Went out again tonight to try and start it and it would absolutely not fire. Temps are about the same today, today and I decided to give it another go and still no go.

I'm getting 12-13 volts across the battery and the car sounds like it wants to fire, but no dice. Definitely getting fuel at the rail and pumps are working as expected. No codes are in the reader, but I did notice that the "Air Intake Temperature" sensor at 32F which is definitely not right with the Garage temp. Is this the sensor at the rear of the Right Hand side air charge assembly?

Cranking RPM looks to be around 150-200 from what I can see.

Tomorrow should finally be a bit warmer (35-40F), so I'm hoping that it starts then. Anything I may be missing?

 

Another update, she runs! I took a part the external ambient temperature sensor (front LH lower side of the radiator) and cleaned both contacts and it started right up.

With it running, I took it down the street for a quick fill up (you can see the ambient sensor just hanging there) before putting it all back together. This evening I dropped buttoned the front grill and temperature sensor back up, and dropped it off to get a new set of Pirelli's as the existing set were severely dry rotted. Also going to have the new Billstein Green rear Shocks installed as well (no access to a spring compressor at the moment)

Only code that seemed to pop up was a P0105 which I'll take a look at this weekend. Other than that, it runs absolutely phenomenal, and leagues better than it had before.