Climate control no heat
Hi;
I have talked to Paul (polybon) about this problem and it seems to have fixed his car as well, but to clarify...the fuse you need is fuse 3, a 15 amp fuse in the box behind the ABS pump. If this fuse is blown when removed then you will be advised to remove the wiring plug from the alarm sounder box which is located under the car at the passenger side of the radiator, just below. (this orientation is on a UK car) Once you have unplugged the sounder unit replace the 15 amp fuse and you should get fog lights and heater again. As vehicles are specced differently this might also resolve some other 'issues' as Paul seemed to have more feeds from this fuse on his car than i have on mine!
Regards
Geoff
I have talked to Paul (polybon) about this problem and it seems to have fixed his car as well, but to clarify...the fuse you need is fuse 3, a 15 amp fuse in the box behind the ABS pump. If this fuse is blown when removed then you will be advised to remove the wiring plug from the alarm sounder box which is located under the car at the passenger side of the radiator, just below. (this orientation is on a UK car) Once you have unplugged the sounder unit replace the 15 amp fuse and you should get fog lights and heater again. As vehicles are specced differently this might also resolve some other 'issues' as Paul seemed to have more feeds from this fuse on his car than i have on mine!
Regards
Geoff
Here's a funny thing- I can tell from the wiring manual that the fuse powers the sounder, but everything points to Fig. 13.3 and there is no such figure in the book! It's in the index, and the second drawing that I posted sends you towards that figure, but it ain't there. Oh well..............
Have you got 12 volts at the supply to the heater pump??
Ok polibon - will prepare a write up this week-end. Will help for future reference as many folks come across this issue and I have done it twice now successfully. I will try to throw in pics and/or diagrams. Only thing unsure if location of items are on opposite side on UK car, but regardless the steps remain the same. Stay tuned.
Cheers
Cheers
Ok polibon - will prepare a write up this week-end. Will help for future reference as many folks come across this issue and I have done it twice now successfully. I will try to throw in pics and/or diagrams. Only thing unsure if location of items are on opposite side on UK car, but regardless the steps remain the same. Stay tuned.
Cheers
Cheers
On the UK cars all the relevant parts are on the passenger side (Right hand as looking at the front of the car)
Heater pump
Heater valve
Fuse box(es)
Sounder box.
Geoff
Ok polibon - will prepare a write up this week-end. Will help for future reference as many folks come across this issue and I have done it twice now successfully. I will try to throw in pics and/or diagrams. Only thing unsure if location of items are on opposite side on UK car, but regardless the steps remain the same.
Hi: I would think that it would be a great idea if you could get hold of a meter of some description. They are extremely useful for finding electrical gremlins and checking circuits. Depending on your circumstances you can go from a cheap meter to a far more comprehensive one at £ 40.00. and above in the uk. Obviously, sky is the limit with these things cost wise, but a very useful tool. You can use it around the house as well if you get the better ones. If you are unsure of the procedure then ask and we will tell you the procedure, or if you need recommendations on what meter to purchase?
Best Regards
Geoff
Best Regards
Geoff
King Charles: Whilst as an electronics engineer I agree with Geoff, they can confuse you if you don't know how to read them.
I would recommend one of those pointed screwdrivers with a bulb in it, and an aligator clip on the end of a wire.
99 times out of 100, you are looking for 12V so just clip on something metal, then confirm the thing works by touching something you know is "live" to make the bulb light, then use it to trace power through a circuit.
I have a £50 Fluke meter (highly recommend Fluke), but it lives on my workbench - I use one of these on the car mostly:
HEAVY DUTY CAR VAN 6-12V VOLT TESTER VEHICLE DC ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT TEST PROBE | eBay
I would recommend one of those pointed screwdrivers with a bulb in it, and an aligator clip on the end of a wire.
99 times out of 100, you are looking for 12V so just clip on something metal, then confirm the thing works by touching something you know is "live" to make the bulb light, then use it to trace power through a circuit.
I have a £50 Fluke meter (highly recommend Fluke), but it lives on my workbench - I use one of these on the car mostly:
HEAVY DUTY CAR VAN 6-12V VOLT TESTER VEHICLE DC ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT TEST PROBE | eBay
As this seems to be a common problem, I'll see if I can make a troubleshooting video later this week, and put a link here.
Lots of people get scared by car electrics, when if you have a diagram and follow it methodically you can find problems quite easily with the most basic of tools.
Having the sounder on my workbench, I set to work trying to dismantle it, only to find it is 'potted'. That is a system whereby the manufacturer pours some horrible black rubbery fluid into the box and completely encases the electronics so it cannot be repaired.
So I have several questions for the forum guys:
1. Does anyone have a schematic of the sounder, so we could duplicate it? I found a source online: JAGUAR XK8 & XJ (X308) SECURUTY SOUNDER LNC2620BB in Locking Security Systems (Horns) but it is fairly costly, and they won't make them forever.
These units have 2 x AA size rechargeable batteries inside (yes I am trying to dig through the potting) which inevitably only have a life of approx 10 years.
2. Who knows what this sounder does? People have mentioned a beep when programming, and also for US models when car is locked. Does it do anything else?
3. Has anyone else found a replacement unit?
Lots of people get scared by car electrics, when if you have a diagram and follow it methodically you can find problems quite easily with the most basic of tools.
Having the sounder on my workbench, I set to work trying to dismantle it, only to find it is 'potted'. That is a system whereby the manufacturer pours some horrible black rubbery fluid into the box and completely encases the electronics so it cannot be repaired.
So I have several questions for the forum guys:
1. Does anyone have a schematic of the sounder, so we could duplicate it? I found a source online: JAGUAR XK8 & XJ (X308) SECURUTY SOUNDER LNC2620BB in Locking Security Systems (Horns) but it is fairly costly, and they won't make them forever.
These units have 2 x AA size rechargeable batteries inside (yes I am trying to dig through the potting) which inevitably only have a life of approx 10 years.
2. Who knows what this sounder does? People have mentioned a beep when programming, and also for US models when car is locked. Does it do anything else?
3. Has anyone else found a replacement unit?
Last edited by Polibon; Mar 30, 2014 at 04:20 PM. Reason: Added section about Sounder
Hello Maybach-man, Danielsand - top post - I agree completely re: love 'em or don't buy 'em.
My 99 XJSport 3.2 looks ok but hides a load of stuff waiting for some TLC.
I've done the primary tensioners, 2ndry are newer so I left them, but now I hear a little tinkle on start up and think one of te 2ndry's is slow in filling with oil... more fun to do.
Upstream O2's both replaced - good emissions now.
The SLM is duff, I have no remote (even after reprogramming the key fobs), no beep when I leave the lights on... another fun part to source and replace.
There's a knock from the back end that sounds suspicously like a shock bush or worse, an A frame bush... but what the hell
And a rust hole in the wing (RHS) behind the front wheel where the nast plastic inner wing filler has let all the cr@p collect....
I have a 98 sport for spares and canibalise it as I do up the pimp jag.
Complaints? Nope! It's cost me less than 2.2K GBP including the '98 spares jag, and it keeps me happy and the local Swedish farmers think I'm bonkers driving a right-hooker over here
I'm going to chat with the coil spring chaps in Sheffield (left their www in another post) and see about a 40mm cropped coil spring set - then respray her in hot-rod flat black with hand pin-stripes in ivory/red
Keep up the enthusiasm everyone - great forum /steve
My 99 XJSport 3.2 looks ok but hides a load of stuff waiting for some TLC.
I've done the primary tensioners, 2ndry are newer so I left them, but now I hear a little tinkle on start up and think one of te 2ndry's is slow in filling with oil... more fun to do.
Upstream O2's both replaced - good emissions now.
The SLM is duff, I have no remote (even after reprogramming the key fobs), no beep when I leave the lights on... another fun part to source and replace.
There's a knock from the back end that sounds suspicously like a shock bush or worse, an A frame bush... but what the hell

And a rust hole in the wing (RHS) behind the front wheel where the nast plastic inner wing filler has let all the cr@p collect....
I have a 98 sport for spares and canibalise it as I do up the pimp jag.
Complaints? Nope! It's cost me less than 2.2K GBP including the '98 spares jag, and it keeps me happy and the local Swedish farmers think I'm bonkers driving a right-hooker over here

I'm going to chat with the coil spring chaps in Sheffield (left their www in another post) and see about a 40mm cropped coil spring set - then respray her in hot-rod flat black with hand pin-stripes in ivory/red

Keep up the enthusiasm everyone - great forum /steve
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Poet
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
14
Oct 6, 2015 09:40 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)








