maybe that's ok, be sure its for the your model jaguar
I used something similar to this 13pc Harmonic Balancer KIT Gear Pulley Puller Steering Wheel Crankshaft Tools | eBay
but make sure its a quality one
why waste the money for OEM equipment, you can buy 5 of these even if they all break in sequence..... youll only be doing the job once.. hopefully

 

That cheap puller is going to do nothing for holding the crank from turning will loosening or torquing the crank bolt to 375 nm.

 

I use a long chain wrench with a section of an old drive belt to prevent damage to the groves in the balancer for holding it in place. I've had some luck using a harmonic balancer puller along with grade 8 bolts for pulling the balancer off.

 

Risky in my opinion as the rubber of the damper is probably is showing is age.

 

You're right about that. However, desperate times leads to desperate measures. It's $130 for the OEM holding tool which you might only use once or twice doesn't justify the cost sometimes to risk holding the balancer in 'other' ways. Even using a badass 1/2" impact is about 80% effective getting the crank bolt out. I think Jaguar never meant for that balancer to ever come off once they installed it with loctite before assembly.

 

I'd agree. I made a tool which worked much like what could be bought.
But if I had to do it again I would buy the tool and either put it back on eBay when I was done or rent it out to others here on the forum.

 

convicor. yes a cheap puller dosnt do anything for holding the crack when torqueing... I custom welded a steel bar 1 inch thick on some metal industrial braces that had a circular hole in them and drilled + welded in stud holes.
that held perfectly for my x308.
as for the puller, it worked and got the job done.
Always best to hear from people who actually have done this job rather than armchair philosphers, so the puller is ok, but must be a better quality one

 

Just to show how I did mine.

 

Nice work convincor ....mines a bit bigger..).

the tricky part was as you know to get the cone the right depth and those bolt holes to line up
theres not much luxury in those holes lining up right.
I used some structural braces, 2 infact welded together back to front

After my first holder broke, I went all out nd even over welded this one. Some grease monkey over torqued the crank bolt during a the timing tensioner upgrade with a rattle gun.
The crank bolt BROKE INSIDE the crankshaft and I spent 2 months drilling it out.
If anyone finds themselves in that situation contact ne for the right technique + tools fir the job.

 

Well! I used another tool modified it to pulled the pulley out, and since I have remove the timing chain cover, the tensioners, the cams and the heads, in the cilynders full of water, a big job a head, I will write a full report from the beginning, but I don't know how to load the pictures from my IPhone, can some post give me an instruction?

 

IPhone...!.. I cant be friends with anyone who has apple products))
regards
Peter

 

It's ridiculous, I don't like The homo Tim Cook, bought an iPhone before I know about him, and since Apple refused to help crack the code to open the iPhone, thus they protect the terrorist, I don't like them any more, but A person had an Apple product it's not mean that a bad guy.

 

a bit off topic but, Iphone is too yuppie for me

 

I've used the "bump starter" method several times on my 1999 XJR for the bolt removal. it is very easy.

you pull fuse #18 in the small fuse box closest to the windshield on driver's side (so the car can't start) and then set up a 24" breaker bar on the bolt and the ground. Since the crank bolt is such a shallow bolt (why did they make it like that), I suggest you hold the head of the breaker bar against the bolt so that it can't wobble off and ultimately strip the head of the bolt. Then, have someone else in the car turn the key on as to start the car and then back very quickly so that it turns the crank just a bit and loosens the bolt. I had to have them do this a few times until it turned the bolt out enough that it was able to be loosened without the crank turning.

Then to install, I pulled spark plug number 1 and put as much nylon rope as I could down into the cylinder when it was at the bottom of it's stroke. then I was able to tighten the crank pulley bolt because the rope prevents the engine from being able to turn over. worked like a charm and no special tools required

 

I can vouch that this has worked on two other different makes
of vehicles. Both DOHC. I am careful to observe that the
cylinder filled with rope is in the overlap position on the
cams to avoid bending valves.

 

Yes make sure it is on the compression stroke before stuffing the cylinder. I use a long screw driver to determine when the piston starts moving upwards

 

vsol
that's all a very dangerous approach to use.
I would never do that, but maybe these cars are cheap in your part of the world

my hat off to you for taking the risk of doing it that way, I admire your risk taking ability.
snapping the bolt off at the crank may take 2 months of drilling to get it out, bugerring up a cylinder with the rope trick maybe more costly too.

not best practice, but ***** of steel for sure!!
Peter

 

I really don't know how you snap the crank pulley bolt off. It's not a small bolt. If its going to snap from bumping the starter than it was probably welded to the crank and would have snapped by any other means as well. This is common practice on all other cars as well, I'm not sure why the jaguar platform seems to be so scared of these methods compared to everyone else. maybe we have a lot less mechanically experienced people here

 

I made myself a home made crank pulley lock from a piece of 2x4 wood stud: I used a hole saw to cut a hole near one end of the stud big enough for the wrench to goes through, drill three small hole to insert three bolts used the bolt heads to catch on the pulley spokes, mark the end that stud will rest on the subframe and cut it at the marked, tighten up the bolts on the pulley, put the wrench through the hole on pulley bolt, if you rest the car on the jack stand there is no way you can turn the wrench by hand, I have to laid on the floor used my feet to push the wrench breaker bar, it worked, after removed the crank pulley bolt, I modified a steering wheel remover to pulled the pulley out, it work again.


This my home made crank pulley locker

 

The 2x4 is quite clever and much easier to fabricate
than using metal.

Although, that doesn't really look like a Jaguar since
the crank is facing the wheel well.


Correction to my earlier post, VSOL is right ...
compression stroke, not overlap position as I
posted. Anyways, valves closed and resting on
valve seats.

I will agree with him that both the bolt removal
using the starter and the bolt tightening using
the nylon rope are safe when done properly
and old techniques dating from before the internet.

I have also removed crank bolts using a variant
of the nylon rope blocking. Jack car up using
floor jack, place breaker bar as appropriate,
block the piston as for bolt installation, release
jack slowly. The torque applied is the length
of the breaker bar multiplied by the corner
weight of the vehicle.

As the Rolls Royce salesman sniffed:

"It will be sufficient."

The jack trick will also work with the 2x4 as
the blocking device.
for bolt
++