Easy tensioner change
It has been over one year and 4k miles and still runs great, but you will have to ask my wife as she took it off me when I was finished with it. I now drive the Tundra. Jag has had no problems as of yet.
Thanks
Bill 98 XJ8 VDP
Thanks
Bill 98 XJ8 VDP
QM-
I am not sure I agree with the part of your response where you say
the "correct method" does not remove variations due to primary stretch. In the correct method I refer to, you loosens the vvt and tightens the primary chain against the crank to remove slack, then lock down the vvt. After that, the skack on the secondary chain is removed by holding tension with the exhaust gear as it is tightened.
I am not sure I agree with the part of your response where you say
the "correct method" does not remove variations due to primary stretch. In the correct method I refer to, you loosens the vvt and tightens the primary chain against the crank to remove slack, then lock down the vvt. After that, the skack on the secondary chain is removed by holding tension with the exhaust gear as it is tightened.
But the bottom line is that, without this VVT adjustment (when using the tie wrap method), both sprockets are in exactly the same alignment, relative to the crank, as they were before the operation; so if performance was acceptable before, it will not change after.
Last edited by QuadManiac; Jul 23, 2011 at 04:55 PM.
To Oligarh -
I'm hoping to do mine later this summer. I'll let you know how it turns out! I don't know any actual Jaguar mechanics in this area. I have concluded that they are all frightfully expensive, so if too much goes wrong with my car, that I can't deal with myself, I will walk away from it.
I'm hoping to do mine later this summer. I'll let you know how it turns out! I don't know any actual Jaguar mechanics in this area. I have concluded that they are all frightfully expensive, so if too much goes wrong with my car, that I can't deal with myself, I will walk away from it.
If you are paying someone else to do it, it should not matter how they do it. Just how much they charge.
Well. I had my upper tensioners changed today. Got charged $600 total by a mechanic who was recommended by a friend. They charged me for 4.5 hours labor and parts (price negotiated down from $670.00). The tensioners were made in Japan to Jaguar specifications. I think it is a pretty good deal.
Here are the old tensioners:
http://photobucket.com/oligarh

You should be able to see the cracks more on one and less on the other. I did have an intermittent chain rattling at cold start. The mechanic said I should be set for the life of the car (my 1999 XJ8, which I bought 2 months ago, has 86000 miles).
Here are the old tensioners:
You should be able to see the cracks more on one and less on the other. I did have an intermittent chain rattling at cold start. The mechanic said I should be set for the life of the car (my 1999 XJ8, which I bought 2 months ago, has 86000 miles).
Last edited by oligarh; Aug 3, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
WHITE XKR is right!
Alhough I said I agreed that the zip tie method gave the same cam position as before the disassembly, I got to thinking about what Brutal said about actually comparing the position and finding it different and what WhiteXKR said about dimensions . Today, I got around to changing the tensioners on my 98 XJR with 260,000 miles. I beleive the tensioners in it were the first generation, so I am afraid they were the originals. Wow, I guess I dodged a bullet.
Anyway, I compatred the dimensions on the 3rd gen tensioner with the ones from the car, and the location of the tight side slipper plate is at least a few millimeters different from the mount on the two. I made no effort to calculate the angle error it causes in the cam position, although I am pretty sure it is quite small, and I re-assembled it after using the zip tie method, although I have the tools.
BUT, the zip method DOES NOT exactly set the cam if the tensioners have a different dimension of the slipper shoe, as mine did.
Alhough I said I agreed that the zip tie method gave the same cam position as before the disassembly, I got to thinking about what Brutal said about actually comparing the position and finding it different and what WhiteXKR said about dimensions . Today, I got around to changing the tensioners on my 98 XJR with 260,000 miles. I beleive the tensioners in it were the first generation, so I am afraid they were the originals. Wow, I guess I dodged a bullet.
Anyway, I compatred the dimensions on the 3rd gen tensioner with the ones from the car, and the location of the tight side slipper plate is at least a few millimeters different from the mount on the two. I made no effort to calculate the angle error it causes in the cam position, although I am pretty sure it is quite small, and I re-assembled it after using the zip tie method, although I have the tools.
BUT, the zip method DOES NOT exactly set the cam if the tensioners have a different dimension of the slipper shoe, as mine did.
Last edited by sparkenzap; Aug 7, 2011 at 06:48 PM.
WHITE XKR is right!
Alhough I said I agreed that the zip tie method gave the same cam position as before the disassembly, I got to thinking about what Brutal said about actually comparing the position and finding it different and what WhiteXKR said about dimensions . Today, I got around to changing the tensioners on my 98 XJR with 260,000 miles. I beleive the tensioners in it were the first generation, so I am afraid they were the originals. Wow, I guess I dodged a bullet.
Anyway, I compatred the dimensions on the 3rd gen tensioner with the ones from the car, and the location of the tight side slipper plate is at least a few millimeters different from the mount on the two. I made no effort to calculate the angle error it causes in the cam position, although I am pretty sure it is quite small, and I re-assembled it after using the zip tie method, although I have the tools.
BUT, the zip method DOES NOT exactly set the cam if the tensioners have a different dimension of the slipper shoe, as mine did.
Alhough I said I agreed that the zip tie method gave the same cam position as before the disassembly, I got to thinking about what Brutal said about actually comparing the position and finding it different and what WhiteXKR said about dimensions . Today, I got around to changing the tensioners on my 98 XJR with 260,000 miles. I beleive the tensioners in it were the first generation, so I am afraid they were the originals. Wow, I guess I dodged a bullet.
Anyway, I compatred the dimensions on the 3rd gen tensioner with the ones from the car, and the location of the tight side slipper plate is at least a few millimeters different from the mount on the two. I made no effort to calculate the angle error it causes in the cam position, although I am pretty sure it is quite small, and I re-assembled it after using the zip tie method, although I have the tools.
BUT, the zip method DOES NOT exactly set the cam if the tensioners have a different dimension of the slipper shoe, as mine did.
It IS always the fixed slipper that's in contact with the portion of the chain that's under tension between the cams, correct? (facing up or down, depending on which bank) A difference in this position will make change in effective chain length between the cams... so, I guess I'm reversing my previous statements.
Now the question becomes - how much of a difference in chain length is there, and how much change in relative cam timing does that induce?
Last edited by QuadManiac; Aug 10, 2011 at 01:27 AM.
No Boomer, it is not true. I was just jerking you around!
Seriously, I agree with your point. I do not know why the Jag engineers thought they needed to put a rub plate on the tight side of such a short chain, but that is what they did . There is a unmoveable plate on the tight side and a moveable, pressure loaded plate on the slack side. I have not confirmed it, but I suspect the so called gen II tensioners, which are plastic and do crack, may be the same dimensions as the gen III available now, but at least the gen I and gen III I measured were different..
Seriously, I agree with your point. I do not know why the Jag engineers thought they needed to put a rub plate on the tight side of such a short chain, but that is what they did . There is a unmoveable plate on the tight side and a moveable, pressure loaded plate on the slack side. I have not confirmed it, but I suspect the so called gen II tensioners, which are plastic and do crack, may be the same dimensions as the gen III available now, but at least the gen I and gen III I measured were different..
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