OK, so I have my exhaust cutouts operated by an active window switch, as I thought I needed intermittent positions.
However, practice learns I only use fully open or fully closed.

As I still have the original remote operated timers, I would like to integrate one in such way, that a quick tab on the switch activates the timer, which then (time controlled - ~4 sec) operates the valves to their full open or closed position.

Now the problem, the timers I have did come with a remote operation only, and no control wires.

If I remove the antenna part (the vertical board), I am left with 4 contacts marked VCC, RXD, RXD, GND.
So my question is, how d I re-wire this up correctly, which wire goes where?

I added a simple schematic below for a better understanding, top is present, bottom is what I like to do.

Any useful guidance will be much appreciated!

 

All right , someone threw some meat in the cage .

Maybe when the window control switch gives it a short time shot on the Black / Red wire ?

You would probably want a cutout cutout switch to override and close the valve in city driving . The Black / Purple wire from the down switch . Looking for my electronics CAD program somewhere in my laptop .

The 2 RDX taps are probably the motor drive wires and you'll probably have to kook it up to the motors to determain the polarity in which way it drives the valves . You can use a 9 volt battery to drive the motors independent of the controller and after you've determined the wiring setup you can hook it up .

The intercept point in the device were you could give this shot would be the electronic reversing relay or mechanical reversing relays control line . This would require more then a shot but a pulse long enough for the valve to get to it's position . This would require that you would give it a shot to the relays controller . Any schematics of the electronics package or pics of both sides of the board marking the orientation to each others pics

I see the 2 mechanical reversing relays now






Editing

 

Meat in the cage, he?
I like that one, yeah, was kind of what I was intending .

I am not sure I understand everything you write, but maybe I saw the light with the help of it ... maybe ...

I saw the toggle switch as powered, but for the new configuration, it should not be, and is just making connectivity, one signal for open, one signal for close, right?
That should give 3 wires out of the switch, right?

On the module, if I remove the antenna receiver board, I also have 3 contacts (I presume the 4th, marked GRD, is a earth wire for the antenna unit??).

So, am I right that the 3 wires from the switch go to the 3 wires in the module, using VCC for the "central", and the 2x RXD for open and close?

Does my rambling makes any sense to you?

 

Thinking

I think there is a error in the 1st document in the switch alone can be used or the receiver alone can be used . To put them together the switch must be wired into the receiver like your last doc with the yellow grounds attached to the switch .

Thinking

I am a artist you know , you thought I was just a piece of work .

 

The micro chip LM358 on the radio receiver board is a 2-channel amplifier which probably, based on the pulses received from the remote, sends (amplified) pulses through its channel 1 or channel 2 (outputs A & B on the attached diagram) to activate one or the other blue relay. I believe the two outputs go to the two "RXD" lines. To verify this, try to establish whether pins 1 and 7 of the LM358 go to the two RXD-s (perhaps via resistors). If this is the case, then you can further test by bridging VCC to one and the other RXD using a 10 Kohm resistor and listening for the clicks of the relays. If nothing happens, you can try with a smaller value resistor, say 4.7 Kohm.

 

To offer what little I can on this, Vcc typically indicates a supply voltage connected to the collector of a transistor. In the world of modems, anyway, RXD stands for "Receiving Data." And GND is of course Ground.

Cheers,

Don