On my way to dinner the CEL came out, then Restricted Performance, and the car shuttered VERY violently until I let off the gas.
Restricted performance goes away, CEL stays on, get to restaurant and turn off car.

After dinner get back in car, CEL on, no restricted performance, but there is a weird metallic sound of something physically wrong coming from the engine bay. Restricted performance comes on, then goes away.

I get the car home and the engine is idling extremely rough, there is a rhythmic metallic sound coming from it, and the supercharger sounds odd. The car runs so rough the engine is literally shaking and the car as well as a result.

I took video. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Pti...usp=drive_link at the end of the video the car makes a super loud sound and I freaked out and killed the flashlight. Rushed to turn off the engine before something catastrophic occurred.

Any ideas how completely ****ed I am?

Best,
Booshiba

EDIT: Could it be bad gas? Or an engine additive? I recently tried a new additive, and the gas station I've been using recently doesnt seem to be the best quality.

 

Maybe the supercharger coupler.

Whats that tube that runs across your supercharger for?

And where does your part load breather tube go?

 

The line running across that is clear is for the boost gauge.
Pardon my ignorance, where is the part load breather tube?

It's so strange the car was running flawless and amazingly. And out of no where this happens. Engine was silent, strong. Now it's noisy rough and running great but sounds like crap and shakes.


Edit: found hose it runs to oil catch can I think. See pic.



Double edit: could a dirty MAF cause all these things? I noticed the connection between MAF and plug are filthy.

 

That sounds like a rotational sound, I’d be looking at the supercharger as it definitely sounded rough. Take the supercharger belt off and run the engine, if there’s no nasty sound it’s the S/C.

 

I hate to say it but I would be looking to pull a timing cover and getting a look at the timing chain tensioners, guides and chains to see if there is anything untoward - Do Not Start the car until you have done this.

Have you been able to pull the codes that posted the CEL?

 

While I do not know the reason for your actual problem, I think I noticed another problem:
That squeaky noise coming from the area of the drive belt:
I think a bearing of an idler pulley (I think there are 2 idler pulleys, one of them would be the pulley on the tensioner) is severely damaged.

 

Turns out it was the rubber seal between the 2 harmonic balancers. It got kinked up and out of whack. Replaced for free and all is well now.

Mods can lock.

 

That was probably the reason for the noise I heard coming from the drive belt...
I hope you had a look at the bearing of your idler pulleys anyway, while you had the belt off...

 

Man I did not. Darn.

They are squeeking. How difficult is it to swap out the entire tensioner assembly? I know there are x2, one is accessory and the other is supercharger. I'll check to see if I have smooth or notched pully. I can get parts and have a tool set. Anyone here done this job that can chime in?

Best,
Booshiba

 

I can't tell you about supercharger.
My non-supercharger has only one tensioner. Replacing the complete tensioner assembly was the intention of the Jaguar designers, which is a crappy idea.
I swapped just the pulley of my tensioner (plus the other idler pulley), but not the complete tensioner assy. I bought cheap generic pulleys from a general automotive shop I shifted the bearing in the centre a little bit (with my hydraulic press). If you plan to swap the pulley of the tensioner only, there is one very important thing to take into account:
The bolt for the pulley of the tensioner has a left-handed-thread!!! That got me, but I did it anyhow - look at the second half of my following thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-bolt-265373/

 

It's very simple. Use 1/2 drive breaker bar to release tensioner and remove belt. Use I believe a 13mm socket to remove the one bolt holding the tensioner assembly. Then you can remove the idler pulley. The pulley and tensioner assembly can then be purchased and replaced but I just pressed new bearings into my factory ones

 

Any benefit to replacing only the pulley? How do I test the tensioner for current effectiveness?

 

no benefit unless your pulleys are damaged or you want to update to the dual side ribbed belt (factory update to address squeaking).

Tensioner effectiveness...tough one. I guess if you see a lot of belt dust around the timing cover to indicate that the belt is slipping, the tensioner may be something to look at. Really though its just a big spring and they are pretty robust.

 

I can't even imagine "reduced tensioner effectiveness".

> Any benefit to replacing only the pulley?
Definitely: Your wallet is not weightless after buying just a pulley rather than the complete tensioner assy.

 

All pullys replaced except for the supercharger one. Waiting on that part.