Hmmmm....looks like some one has been busy with the gasket goo. What's the history of this engine and how many miles has it done?

 

The rtv is there because the valve covers constantly leak from cracks I found after the 3rd time. Mileage is about 147000. I don’t know the history.

 

Cleaning piston heads

 

I also need some help on page 2 of this thread for main bearing #1 blue/green witch one is the grooved bearing

 

Belmont,
When I did the engine repairs on my XK8 I didn't do the main bearings but only a single rod bearing. So the info I'm giving you is from research I did and not from actual experience.
I found a pic of a main bearing with the oiling grove. I believe the grove will be on both bearing halves. When you order the bearings for the mains it will have the oil grove.

 

Thanks I’ll look into it more. The bearings on the bed plate are not grooved while the bearings in the block are grooved. I’ll reread the pdf to find out

 

Both heads have been taken apart. On Monday I’ll take it to a shop to have them cleaned and have 2 threads retapped

 

Like your storage box for the valve components. Where are your cam buckets, I put them with the valve they belong to. I also take the bucket shim off and mark its size on top of the box to its corresponding valve. I do this so when I'm adjusting valve clearances I know what shim is on that bucket and can calculate what size I need. Also drill a hole above each tray in your box. This way you can close the lid by guiding the valve through the hole. If you accidentally spill the box with the lid open you will never figure what part goes where. It is a little old fashion but it is the way I was taught.

I confirmed you main bearing sizes to yours. Install the bearings in the same configuration they came off.

Keep posting your pictures.

 

I have never heard of someone trying to rebuild a Nikasil engine .... be it a direct cause or not.Do you know why the compression was down .. was it a cyl problem?

Also -- the temp gauge registers normal for a very wide temp .... it's designed that way. It only hits the overheat when it too late .. it's no better than a overheat light.

It's really only good for informing when the engine has warmed up

 

I’ll do that when I get a chance thanks. Also how did you adjust the valves when the cams are on?
also where did you get your rod bearings?

 

From what I found when I took apart the engine some of the piston rings were stuck closed from the gunk and the oil control rings and springs were completely clogged with gunk I don’t know how those pistons got any oil sense they have no holes on the inside of the piston like other cars do. And some valves we’re leaking.

 

Dropped off the parts to get them cleaned and have 2 valve cover bolt threads repaired.

 

Also since I have the engine out of the car what work should I do while I have all this room
other than cleaning it that’s on my “list”

 

Well -- when the lining fails it creates blowback. Oil gets into the intake --- did you do any checking?

Jaguar never fixed any of the N coated engines .. they removed them and replaced with a new engine with steel Cyl liners -- all the later cars came with lined Cyl's

 

You need to by a special tool to adjust the valves with the cam on. The way I did it was to know the size of the shim on each cam bucket. The when the head is assembled I'd measure the clearances, calculate the difference to the shim I have on each cam bucket and then know what size is needed. Remove the cams and put the needed shim on its cam bucket.

As for the rod bearings I got mine from the dealer.

 

I would change the octopus hose and all other coolant hoses.
Check the transmission cooler line that runs alongside the driver side of the engine. I had an xj8 that it rubbed against something, I think it was the steering rack, and caused a leak in the line. It is easy to change with the motor out but a real pain with the engine in the car.
In your picture I see a hose on the driver side that has some wear, looks like a power steering hose.

 

I buy my bearings directly from Jaguar, but I would imagine they're not difficult to get through auto factors nowadays.
Valve shim adjustment can only be done with cams in, with a rather expensive tool from SPX (factory tool supplier) it pushes the bucket down on their shoulders so the shims can be replaced. I would love one!

When ordering the crank bearing set, don't forget the thrust bearings.

A dummy crank set tool made out of an old bedplate

 

Valves cleaned and engine parts back from the shop all cleaned and purdy

 

It's hard to tell with pictures but it looks like the valves need to be cut and I would have them cut the valve seats also. It looks like a bit too much wear on the valves for just lapping them in to get them to seat properly. IMHO.