In a previous post I warned that you could easily round the nuts so before this happens get a blow lamp or welding torch on the carrier. The bolts will free quite easily with the heat.

 

Be careful not to use the spray and heat at the same time. Setting the car on fire is not an option.

 

I'm not sure I understand why heat would help to free the bolts in this circumstance. Heat would expand the bolt, making it more difficult to free wouldn't it? I suppose that burning off the rust is a possibility, but, I think I'd be uncomfortable hitting it with a blowtorch.

Would you do the same to the Allan bolts/screws? Or would you only recommend this on the main carrier connection?

 

surely there is a risk of damaging the seals in the caliper with heat?

 

Heat and flame can cause problems with fluid, hoses and rubber seal products that is why caution and experience is a key factor in using it.

 

I presume from your posts you are trying to remove the disc and the caliper??
Removing the caliper should be easy as the hex bolts are well protected from the elements and don't tend to sieze. To remove the disc you will need to remove the carrier, this is where you will inevitably need to apply the heat to the carrier to free the bolts which are exposed to the elements.

 

chriscon...yes...I am trying to remove both the disc and caliper to replace the rotor.

I agree that the hex bolts should be easier to remove (although one of them has lost the plastic/rubber "cover" so...that one may be a bit rusty).

Regarding the carrier bolts, I am loathe to use heat just because I'm not well-versed in what damage it can do. I am planning to use the penetrating lube recommended earlier, a longer breaker bar, and I've purchased an impact wrench as a "last resort" implement. Not sure when I'll get to it...vacation coming up soon. I may disappear from this thread for a while, but will report my results (especially if I'm bitchy because I can't get it done )

 

Well do we want to know how you made out on this task???

 

Still traveling. Should be back in town by 4/18 meaning I'll get to it some time that week.

Glad to know you guys care.

 

Back from my extended travels...spent time on the brakes yesterday.

Absolute easy success on the pads once I found a 7mm hex wrench. About 25 minutes for the first one, 20 minutes for the second.

The rotors, however, were a different story. I purchased a breaker bar AND a pneumatic drill in hope of finally freeing those 17mm bolts. After a liberal application of penetrating oil, I started with the breaker bar, passenger side. Neither bolt budged. I tried working in a tightening direction as well in the hopes of breaking the rust. No go. Fired up the pneumatic drill....nada. Color me surprised and disappointed. Fortunately, my rotors are OK...so, replacing them was not mandatory, I just like to do a thorough job when I have the opportunity. On to the driver side...even though it would be really sloppy to replace one rotor and leave the other, I wanted to see if I would have any success with the tools. Negative. All four bolts, driver and passenger, are locked in place for damn ever it seems.

So...definitely taking the pneumatic drill back to the store. I don't mind having a tool in the arsenal that's only used on rare occasions...but, if it doesn't work at all I feel no shame in returning it. The rotors are a more difficult situation. Combine ordering on-line with my month on the road...I've missed any semblance of a 30 day return period. No harm in asking, of course, so I've crossed my fingers. Otherwise, those of you with a 98 XJ8 may see brand new EMC rotors on eBay in the near future. Act now for a bargain!

Thanks for all the advice.

 

At least nothing got broken. Most guys would continue until they either got the bolts out or broke something (like a hand or a finger).

 

Remove the caliper and get it out of the way.
Apply heat to the carrier arround the bolt, use a wleding torch or gas blow torch. Let it get very hot then crack the bolt. Its the only way you can shift these bolts.

 

Wow I got lucky. I had no problem removing any of the bolts and I changed all four corners. I didn't even apply any penetrating oil.

If you can't return the rotors where you bought them, you could find a shop to do it - labor only. Either that or sell them on eBay or Craigslist.

Joe
98 VDP

 

Hey guys,

I try not to intervene on diy projects, but this one scares me. These carrier bolts do not need to be torch heated to remove them. I've never encountered carrier bolts that bad, even in rust belt conditions. Unless you REALLY know what you're doing I strongly recommend you park the torch. Guys who know what they're doing wouldn't be heating up these brake/suspension parts, not if you plan to use them again.

Let me make this suggestion, it works ALL the time for me. Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 17mm 6 point socket (important). Place the breaker bar on the bolt in a position where you can reach the end of the breaker bar with a rubber mallet. One or two raps with the mallet is all it takes to break these bolts, often I can get them just using the palm of my hand. If, for some reason, that doesn't do it, try adding a 3/4" or 1" piece of black plumbing pipe, about 12/18" long to the handle of the breaker bar.

REMEMBER to go the correct direction. These are RH bolts, but you are facing them from the back of the bolt, so if you're trying to remove a RH bolt by going anti-clockwise, it is actually clockwise as you face the back of the bolt.

 

I do not have the confidence to follow chriscon's advice. I'm not adept with a torch, and this seems like the wrong time for me to create a learning curve. While I appreciate that advice, I've made a firm decision not to follow it.

Regarding Steve's advice, I have the 1/2 inch breaker and the 6 point socket. I did get to a place where I could hit the bar with the rubber mallet...this was unsuccessful. I also had previously tried creating my own torque bar by cutting a piece of solid conduit (not the flimsy stuff) and sliding it over my normal ratchet wrench. I cut the piece as long as I could to still remain within the available space in the wheel well...and this didn't go either (and I rapped on the end of the conduit with a claw hammer without success). I'm a bit miffed that the wheels cannot be turned sufficiently to allow access to an even longer torque bar outside of the wheel well confines. Even with the wheel fully turned, the breaker bar/torque bar still has to fit within the well. The only way to really get leverage on it (outside the confines of the well) would be to put the car on a hoist and get at it from underneath.

So...chalk one up for the rust belt. Looks like my parts provider is sending me an RMA, so all I will be out is the return shipping.

 

I posted a pictorial guide on how to change the brakes and rotors a while back you know of my XJR.

UPDATE: Here is the link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=35063