Okay, searched around the shock threads and saw many doing mount as well. I feel my mount bushings are okay but I know the shocks are original. So if I just want to replace the shock, pretty easy right? (Front shocks)

Take off tire, remove lower bolt, unscrew top nut, compress shock and slide out? (maybe support the lower control arm to keep spring compressed?)
I tend to overthink things so I just want to be sure I understand how on my Jaguar. I use to change shocks on older US made cars in a prior life and they were mostly that easy..

Also, getting conflicting stories about KYB brand verses other shocks.

Any comments about this brand?

Appreciate the clarifications and insight.

Tom
2001 Jaguar Vaden Plas

 

Try this link, got if from another thread in the XK8 forums. When in doubt, use the OEM brands, I hear the shocks are important for our cars moreso than other makes.

 

I echo h20boys' comments. Bilstein or OEM, which I believe I have read OEM is bilstein at least on some models. I have used KYB in the past on other vehicles and was not impressed. They were great for the first 5K miles, then the performance noticably dropped off and they were just another run of the mill shock absorber. On a car like these, it is imperative to put high quality shocks on, IMHO.

 

Thanks for the link for those shocks..been hearing the same about KYB, bilstein it is. Great price H2OBoy btw..Gonna order those.

I did find a PDF of front shock removal on the site finally..doesn't look bad at all.

 

bilsteins are OEM, and theyre good. The upper bushings on your car come apart too but are easy to replace compared to XK's. You unbolt the upper plate mount, buy a kit from Ken at Motorcars and press out the old and press in the new. Simple
Bilsteins are generally good for a 100k+ in mileage easy, just ALWAYS replace shocks in pairs after they have over a 50k

 

I agree with Brutal - repalce your upper shock bushings when you replce the shocks. I did mine last weekned with the kit from Motorcars and it made a huge difference. the kickback through the steering wheel was greatly reduced. The original ones looked OK but the difference in ride comfort is great.

I installed new Bilstein's (sport model, not the comfort model) in place of the original adaptive shocks about 3 months ago and I am very happy with them.

 

Alright, you guys have talked me into replacing the mount bushings too. I have access to all kinds of presses at work and some fellas who can press them for me. Ordered them from Motorcars. Thanks for talking me into it, I know it was a good/right decision, even Gallager@Motorcars termed replacing them as a "no brainer." I know Jaguars are heavy cars and taking care of the suspension, the right way, is important for that great ride they have..even 9 year old cats.

Thanks again!
Tom

 

good choice Tom, let us know how it turns out.

 

Well I replaced the bushings!

I used an Arbor press at work, took 15 minutes to pop the old ones out and press in the new, no biggie. Key is using a 12 mm bolt to push them out properly so as to not damage the sleeved insert. Like many here I could feel slight vibration and some bumps through the steering column so I hope this corrects that issue as well. The old bushings feel like semi-hard sponges, one side really rounded out and all dried out as well. Big difference in the new bushing feel verse the old. Thanks to the crew here for pushing me to do this, it was no big deal, any DIY can do this with access to a small or lightweight press. On a 9 year old cat I would absolutely recommend it. Even though they looked good on visual while in car, once I took the support mount off and removed the old I saw one side really worn, right side where the clunk was coming from.

I was also able to replace the front shocks using just the standard Jaguar jack. A little tight getting the wheel back on because I removed the shock mounts before jacking the car up, the shocks help hold up the lower control arm a bit. But I did change them, one at a time, and with a little fiddling was able to get the new shock shaft aligned with the upper mount hole. I did not need to remove the swaybar ends to get at the 15mm bolt of the shock. Did both fronts in this manner in under 1 1/2. You will need to use the jack again to raise each side to place the shock mount comfortably back into the frame.

Side note: for 9 year old shocks and 100k miles I was impressed that they still felt semi firm. Though the new felt stiffer on push down the old ones still had some good resistance comparatively

Update after ride:

The ride difference was noticeable, particularly through the steering column. No more clunk, I noticed right side bushing was really oblong compared to the left side. It rides just awesome now!


Tom
2001 VDP

 

So, I realize this is an old thread but I just replaced my front shocks today (well, one of them so far). Oh yes, it should be easy and straightforward unless ...

Lower shock bolt was rust welded to the shock bushing. My big **** impact wrench with high quality sockets quickly rounded the bolt head. BFH had zero effect, the bolt just laughed. Tried puller which actually started bending the mounting tab. Finally had to call on the fire gods. Propane torch, not even close. Realized acetalene tank is empty, drive to tractor supply. Even that heat, which quickly burns through rubber bushing is not enough. Get out the cutting torch and cut away bottom of shock so I can remove it. Get the bushing glowing red hot. Finally the BFH does the job. Go to hardware store to get new bolt. Install new shock. And that is why it took all afternoon to do one side.

 

The joys of owning a rustbelt car.

 

While not like you find in AZ and other places, mine is pretty clean on the underbelly as I do not drive her during salt season. I cant imagine how people work on some of the rust buckets you see on YouTube and elsewhere.

I did live in AZ many years ago. I remember replacing an exhaust component that had rusted from the inside on a VW Rabbit. I was able to remove the original exhaust bolts with my fingers.

 

that is a shank bolt and unless you get the correct size youll have a clunk. Just use oem its not worth saving a couple bucks.

 

Before shock and mount replacement



After mount and shock replacement

 

Surely more level and a well done job, but man, that car rolls high ...

 

LOL, not for long.
I have the 19" american Racing wheels coming in the next 2 weeks.
They will surly fill the "gaps" around the wells.
I had to firm up the suspension first before I installed the new larger wheels.