After researching here, it appears I have a problem with my 1999 XJR fuel pump. I have checked the relays and fuses (by swapping the relays and measuring continuity through the perfect looking fuses), it has no pressure at the Schraeder valve with ignition on, and it starts with a shot of starter fluid.

I had intermittent problems of occasional stalling under acceleration, and a couple days ago it just would not start.

Any life altering advice before I dive into this would also be appreciated. I usually have it all figured out when I am done, but rarely tackle the same job twice.

The main thing seems to be whether the lines into the tank from the bottom need to be disconnected, or if it can be done while in place. I saw both opinions here.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

This sounds like you have a line or seal leak. If the pump was bad, it would not start at all. But if there's a leak, the fuel will bleed off and the pump will not prime. By using starter fluid it allows the superior vacuum from the motor to push the fuel again.
Do you smell an odor of gas after running her? Have you tried replacing the fuel cap? This is the cheapest and probably most common issue.

 

Fuel pumps.

 

I tip my hat to those who got the fuel lines out of the bottom of the tank... I found it impossible. My arms are too fat and short apparently, and my girlfriend declined. I spent a lot of time and frustration before admitting defeat.

So, I tried the "pull it out anyway" approach, with the lines still attached. So far, so good. I have the old pumps out, and a new one in. The wires were fine.

Ordered two, the parts company sent only one, so I am stuck till I get the pump.

I used Bosch pumps, and they fit fine.

Thanks to the pioneers out there who saved my sanity! Hope to give a positive report on this desperation move once the job is done.

 

It is a fairly simple matter to loosen the fron subframe mounts, then remove the rear bolts and lower the subframe so you can get your hands to the tube connetions. Use a ,etal tube split lengthwise to get some extra "push" on your fitting tool. Jacking the the tank around without removing the tubes can result in kinking the tubes. If you do that, you are SCREWED!

 

True ... but there may be a way out

The filter is the same as found on most GM pickups and vans. When they screw up the lines, they put in a line repair kit that has the right fittings.

The funniest thing is when you ask the counter man for filter #xxxxxx and they tell you that the reason they don't have it is because "probably not many vehicles use it". That's when you put on a puzzled face and tell them it's the filter for a GM pickup.

Lot's of years, but 2001 GMC Jimmy for sure.

 

Cut a hole in the rear shelf above the tank to make a door basically and u can change the pumps in an hour. The deck cover covers the door and nobody ever knows.

 

The second fuel pump finally came in. The Cat has been sitting all week with the tank hanging half out, lines still attached, six days. If there was ever a test of this method, this was giving it full measure. Installed the second pump, buttoned it up, poured in the fuel... and no leaks, no drama, no problems. It worked! I have taken it out, put my foot down, and it appears to be back in fine form.

This method of just jacking the tank out is jury rigging of the worst sort, but it saved my ***. Again, I tip my hat to those who managed getting the lines out, but I couldn't get my arms far enough up there. I am on jack stands, not a lift, on a crawler. I tip my hat even more to the guy who pioneered it, and wrote it down, XJ Ate. Thanks for taking time to document it.

Some notes... Disconnecting the tank side of the fuel filter was key. Getting the right side out first was good advice, and tilt it a bit forward as you pull it out. The lines flex pretty well.

Have a clean rag to put on the sharp metal parts of the tank you come in contact with. I got cut up anyway, but that helped.

The new pump likely comes with a different connector, you will need to solder the leads they provide on to the existing harness. Use shrink tube on the joints, my advice.

As others have noted, this project was challenging in some respects, but avoiding disconnecting the fuel lines made it a lot easier. I wonder, has anyone who tried this had a disaster? Are there horror stories of this somewhere, as I was duely warned? I tried to disconnect those lines first, and gave up frustrated. and only then resorted to trying this admitedly risky method. Has anyone had a problem who tried it? If not, it might be worth trying again if you have short but "large" arms. The cutting a hole method sounded feasible, but potentially more difficult and not just jerry rigging, but super jerry rigging.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in with advice! This is an invaluable resource for Jag support.

 

There are stories of people who left the lines in place and pulled the tank out far enough to replace the pump(s).

Several reported that fuel was leaking severely from the broken pipe(s) above the rear suspension.
The worst part was that the replacement pipes were NLA from Jaguar so a salvage yard search was the only way to fix the fault.

Hope it works out for you.

Lately I have been replacing 5 or 6 fuel pumps a year.
The job only pays about 4 hours and I don't have any trouble getting the lines disconnected but I have done DOZENS.

bob gauff

 

+1 on cutting a hole in the rear shelf. Call me a hack, but its much easier. Getting the lines off underneath when working in the driveway wasnt going to happen.

 

Thanks Johnnie. Did you use a nibbler to do the cutting, or ?

Update: No leaks, no problems, the pull it partially out method worked for me, but I was sweating bullets until it was back together and working again.

On further consideration, and with Johnnie's and others endorsement of the tray cutting method, I might go that route if it happens again. This method completely bypasses the fuel line disconnection issue, without putting them at risk of breaks or leaks. May be another hack method, but there is no painless way out of this repair job as far as I see, unless you have the excess cash for a shop to do it.

 

Michael.....re pulling the tank.
You say undo the tanks side of fuel filter pipe....does this allow fuel to leak everywhere?
How much curve will the other pipe stand without kinking?
I have been seriously thinking about the 'cut a hole' method.

 

After the problems I experienced with a professional shop having done this job a "shortcut way" described by motorman above, that resulted not in leaks but in a kinked pipe that cut flow enough to burn out the new pump resulting in "round 2" at a different shop, I endorse the "cut a small hole in the shelf" method.

With the amount of stuff that's got to be ripped out to do it "the correct way" there's an awful lot of potential for less than stellar reassembly, too.

We're not talking about doing something that negatively impacts either structural integrity nor aesthetics, and it makes the job much, much easier and less trouble-prone to do.

That's why forums like this one are so utterly invaluable. There are many things learned by "field trials" that the original engineers and documentation writers would never have thought of. And, lets face it, these cars were produced long into the era where production efficiencies were paramount and ease-of-repair considerations were not even considerations. That's only gotten worse since then.

If one wishes to use the documented method, they'll get no argument from me. However, neither will anyone who elects to use a method found to be easier and less trouble prone by those who've been doing it "in the field" over the years.

 

I used a Harbor Freight air powered hack saw. perfect for "hack" jobs!

 

xjay8, there is reportedly a valve that normally prevents the fuel from flowing out, though I had already emptied my tank. I had no problems with that.

As to the amount of flex in the lines, in my case all I can say is "enough". I think tilting the tank forward (from the top) a bit helps the lines clear the hole into the trunk, which allows you to start pulling the entire assembly forward.

Cutting a hole is definitely less risky, and according to Johnnie, guyslp and others, not a difficult task (with the right tool). If I have to do it all over again (God forbid), I think I would have went that way.

In general I have found this model Jag relatively easy to work on, but agree with guyslp that the guys who engineered this did not think the repair side through in certain instances. A perfect example was replacing a simple heater hose... you have to remove the supercharger!

 

Removing the tank is easy - chopping into load bearing panels is far far riskier.

One of the very first jobs I did on an XJR was to replace the pumps and filter, and it went like clockwork, a parts diagram helps, so too a near empty gas tank.

The correct line release tools are pennies to buy, if your arms don't fit, ask the kid next door to shove them home. Don't remove the rear axle..

Take pictures before each component's disassembly

A little gas is spilt, as always caution, a container with lid and wrags - you're good to go.

.I find these horror posts funny, this went wrong, then that went wrong....they went together Ok in Coventry, no witchcraft or magic spells......and no dremels, grinders or major removal of trim is required....the potential risks of the 'alternatives' are incredible.....along with 'groundhog day' results....

 

I agree with that. "Whatever human hand assembled, I can disassemble, and put back together" is my favorite saying. However,......the car was on the dolly lift in Coventry (most likely upside down) when assembled. If I could have that equipment, it would be EASY to do just about anything. Even hoist would be a godsend. But I don't have it.

So,.....when my pump goes, I WILL cut the back shelf. Once I'm in there, I will decide how much (if any) structural integrity is compromised, and if needs to be, I will manufacture a brace, that will make that panel stronger than before. A trap door in the shelf would be nice too, for the future need.

 

I hear what Sean is saying, but your point hits home: few of us have the lift or even a driveway (a barn or hangar would be nice), at my condo my HOA would ^^^^ing freak if I dripped gas on the driveway. Removing the back seat seems like the roughest chore in the trapdoor method using a Dremel tool. What would be useful would be a template for making the cut. I wouldn't need one for the brace afterwards, a bit of raw steel and machine screws would recover the structural integrity.

Speaking of pumps and filters, what the recommended miles for replacing the fuel filter? And, how much trouble uncork those fittings?

 

Ok, just some thoughts on what can go wrong/break with the butchering idea...
1. Cutting looms, shorting systems and damage.
2. spark behind trim and fire
3. broken high stop lamp bracket
4. Cracked rear screen
5. Broken rear seatbelt escucheons
6. paint damage to door shuts on trim removal

And so on....good luck to the hackers

Guy's I put the rear on stands, use a creeper, and push a bit of formed white household heating hose onto each, done in under 10 seconds each line.
Pop the tank bands, remove the filler assembly and rock the tank out. Is this not simple enough for you?!
The tanks are assembled with the axle out at the factory, I saw the 308 line at Browns Lane.
You really sound like you turn a simple job into epic...

 

You may have talked me into rolling it into the local independent: I hate paying for I can do, tho!