I swapped the fuel pump and filter in my 03 without issue and checked twice to make sure everything was right, car won't start now? any tips? PS I've checked the trunk fuse it just cranks forever even with starting fluid, good battery, and battery getting jumped from a running car.

 

I would first verify you if are, or aren't getting fuel pressure.
If not, check the relay(s).

 

Check inertia switch, passenger side,... maybe need to be reset....

 

There is a control power fuse other then the power that passes through the relay in the trunk , this is point 29 circle double hash in the pic , # 15 / 10 amp left heelboard fuse box

This fuse requires the ignition positive relay to close in the left heelboard fuse box ( there are 2 ignition positive relays in this car )

In using starter fluid and no start it would indicate the ECU is not getting power , under the hood ignition positive relay and I think the EMS control relay

You would have to pull the relays out with the key in the run position to feel for them to click back open

Even though the relay can click getting the correct command it can still have bad power contacts inside lacking the ablity to transfer proper current to power your device

The inertia / crash switch can trip as it is fickle, and resetting does not always reset so you can use a paper clip between the 2 white wires in the connector

On replacing the fuel pump it is advisable to change the FP relay and inspect the fuel pump connector for burnt sockets , a bad failing pump will ruin these in some cases

You can put a jumper between sockets 3 and 5 to directly power the pump

Have you put your cylinders in a bore wash condition ?

 

I've gone ahead and tried the inertia switch and checked if I'm getting fuel to the engine. The inertia switch was good, I'm getting fuel to the engine as well though not a lot. haven't done a bore wash ever I don't think. though I'm gonna try. after examining the fuel pump relay it looks ancient and two of the male ends look almost burnt but how can you tell for sure i looked online for a blown relay and no good picture came up,gonna try the EMS relay next

 

Burnt relay sockets ( more like the internal power contact points ) and pump motor connector sockets are a sign the pump is giving out

You may not have enough pressure for a start

You can jumper the FP relay at socket 3 and 5 with a blade type jumper wire end pieces and it may give you enough pressure for a start but .....

If you had the supercharged engine you would have 2 pumps you can jumper

I would hold off anything else until you have 43 PSI fuel pressure or close

 

mines only the N/A i just replaced the pump so I'm surprised it's doing this, also what was the cylinder bore wash you were referring to, my engine was replaced with the previous owner so i have no idea if it was replaced with a pre 2002 engine. I'm gonna try to jump the relay in the morning i have nothing to do that with currently.

 

The damage to the relay and pump motor connector accures from the previous pump as it is failing

correct call on replacing it

The new pump will have compromised current to run it properly

You can use the unoccupied # 2 relay socket but will have to rewire it

The pump motor connector can be cut off and taken to a local auto parts store and they can order it

There is the possibility the new pump has a bad check valve as a new part and you won't be the first

 

so i ran into a new problem the injectors are dry, there are sounds in the fuel rail but nothing to the injectors so it looks like we took a step back. the trip computer is saying 138 miles of range but the fuel gauge needle shows empty which is odd

 

you can have an intermittent relay

or one that is clicking but has burnt power contacts inside limiting the curent flow

if the fuel pump is powering up so the ECU is also "somewhat " powering up as it is where the FP relay gets its command from

so that points to the fuel injector relay

 

would the injector relay be the one to replace here or something else? i'll tell you what that fuse box was hard to find

 

Fuel injector relay will be the opposite side of your steering column under the bonnet

 

i swapped the relay with some extras from an x300 parts car, still nothing.

 

does the relay click closed in the starting sequence?

you would have to put your finger on it

 

yes, stronger with the original fuse as well but still clicked with a x300 fuse

 

Have you jumpered the FP relay to ensure it has proper power to run the pump , I understand you can hear the fuel pressure regulator doing its thing

The regulator could have failed in the full bypass position as well

so that would put you at a pressure reading

43 psi

 

well that paper clip trick worked, didn't realize I hadn't put it on the rear fuel line that well . what would be the likely culprit since it seems to only work with this paper clip?

 

The inertia switch and d what it shuts down is not new as the switch is fical even after a reset

You can drive around with the 2 white wires tied together and obtain one from a salvage yard

If you take apart the inertia switch spring loaded parts will fly everywhere

A jumper in the fuel pump relay will run at all times with the keys in your pocket so it will drain the battery``````````````````

 

will x300 parts work on it?

 

The relays will work as long as they have the same amperage rating so the fuel pump relay would be the same

the inertia switch is the same as well as the ignition switch that separates from the key barrel so no new key needed

The ignition switch controls the fuse box " king "relays like the 2 ignition positive relays one in the left heelboard fuse box and one in the engine compartment fuse box