I replaced the fuel pump on my 98 XJ-8 yesterday. As I had read in other posts, the electrical connector at the pump was burnt badly. Seems the pins and connector are too small to tolerate an overheat condition. I could have ordered the exact pump replacement from NAPA, C2N3866, but decided to pick up an Airtex E-2471 and FS-175 filter screen locally. The mount rubber parts need to be modified to fit the Airtex, but the Airtex has a much more robust connector. All said and done, I now have 40 psi fuel pressure at the fuel rail instead of 28psi. I really did not enjoy the repair, but am thankful my buddy was able to get his arms around the differential and unclip my fuel lines and reattach them for me. Any questions I will be glad to answer...My thanks to others who have passed their knowledge to me.

Congrats! Good job.

I am a "little" different. I LOVE to find the workaround the stupid designs. When I go to change the fuel pump on X308, I'll cut the "trapdoor" in the shelf. Some consider this hacking, but I like nice and easy. The access point was supposed to be there anyway. The fact that it isn't, will not stop me.

Sadly, my x308 needs a fuel pump. Definitely not looking forward to being beneath the car trying to undo the fuel clips. Congrats on a task completed.

Same here. I used the track door method 2 weeks ago to change both fuel pumps. I cut 3 sides and lifted the flap up towards the rear glass. After changing the pumps I used a mending plate to resucure the flap.

Forgive me for asking but what is a mending plate? Any pictures of the before, during and after of cutting the flap?

Thanks,

Chris

Forgive me for asking,Why would you cut part of the structural integrity of the car?

I suppose it depends on the individual, but I asked a neighbor to help me unclip the fuel lines, and he did it in about 10 minutes. I had already purchased a complete set of disconnect tools from the local auto parts store, Lyle 3700 if I recall. You only need the next to smallest one, I think it is the 1/2 inch disconnect. The lines reconnect a lot easier..they just snap back in. I am glad I pulled the tank out of the trunk, because it needed a good cleaning out. I used a hand pump, like the ones you buy to siphon fuel from a kerosene container , to pump the remaining fuel out of my tank. I then wiped out the rust and dirt left behind. the main thing to be aware of when pulling out the fuel tank is to protect the large vent pipe on the left side, and to protect the wire bundle on the right side. You disconnect a couple plugs from the vapor cannister on top as you remove the tank, along with the fuel sender wires. I used a couple large putty knives to wedge between the sharp edges of the fuel tank and protect the vent tube and wiring as we slid the tank out. I covered a small, flat, pry bar with duct tape and placed it under each side of the tank to lift up so the tank would slide back. After doing this once, it is really not that big a deal...just slow work and tedious. While I had the tank out, I also replaced the fuel filter underneath the car.

n1068d
is there any chance that the fuel lines could be hooked up backwards? I just replaced my fuel pump and I have the same symptom as when I started. no fuel pressure at the fuel rail. the fuel filter was replaced.
The odd thing is when I removed the tank to change the fuel pump the pump had recently been replaced. I bought this car not running.

To simplify my question, what size are the lines that tank and is there a possibility that someone could connect them wrong. like the return line connected to the supply.

some more information
I removed one of the fuel connections from the tank (passenger side) and measured it. .310 and the one on the driver side is also .310
I am going to proceed and remove the driver side and swap positions.
about 12 inches from the tank there is a filter I am going to call this the pressure side or supply.
The supply was connected to the passenger tank connection, at this point I have no was of knowing which connection is the fuel pump so I am going to move to supply or pressure to the driver side port in the tank and see if I get pressure to the fuel rail.

Since you bought the car not running, have you checked for a blown fuel pump fuse? There's also a fuel pump relay to consider. How about when you just turn the key to the on position, do you hear the pump turning on at all?

Yeah. I would diagnose the electrical circuit before I switched the pipes!

Attached is a sheet from the x308 tech manual showing the fuel lines. They appear to be 2 different types of line and you would have to work at it to cross them up.
I have also attached the relay locations for the x308.
With the fuel pressure relieved on the engine schrader valve you should be able to turn the ignition key to the engine run position and hear the pump running.
Sure sound like electrical if the pump hasn't failed

I just had to change my fuel pump. there is a easy way to do it without disconnecting fuel lines. remove filler cap electrics put to one side undo the straps holding tank and pull the tank into the trunk enough to get to the top of tank, there is enough fuel line to do this then change fuel pump and then push tank back into place easy job

I had to do this on my XKR. The in tank lead for one pump had crapped out.

I found the Lisle made set of disconnects worked. They sell them at NAPA and many other places:

NAPA AUTO PARTS


I used the tool from that set; I think it was the smallest or second smallest. I then got it up there, then had to push really hard with a super long screw driver. It is a learned technique. You do get better the next time; and I did it again on a friend's XK8 in mere minutes where I struggled for an hour just on the disconnect the first time.

I can do a whole fuel pump swap in probably under two hours now. I hate it, my neck hates it, and my back hates it.

To note; ALWAYS REPLACE THE IN TANK FUEL PUMP LEAD/S.

I used the airtex pumps and airtex fuel strainers. They're cheap and work great. I've used them on many cars and never had one fail.

When I get home tonight I am going to swap the fuel lines and see the result. Thanks to all for the information and advice.
I did check all of the electrical before starting this job. turn the key on and the pump runs for a couple of seconds each key cycle. I even checked for fuel flow before replacing the fuel pump at the filter that is only inches away, you can here the pump run but no fuel. I believe the mechanic before me put in a fuel pump and mistakenly put the fuel lines in the wrong position. the car wouldn't run and the owner gave up and sold the car not running. of course I dident know this until I removed the fuel tank and saw a nice clean tank with worm gear clamps on the hoses instead of the factory ones. I will post my results this evening.

the fuel lines are no biggie to remove from the underside of the car,i think removing the trim and cutting a trap door is more work,personally i would never consider that as an option.
the link lead,screen,fuel sending unit and the fuel pump relay i items i always did with fuel pump replacement and i recommended a fuel filter also

You should be able to hear the fuel pump running if it is getting voltage. There is also a fuel pump relay that has to pull in in order for the fuel pump to function. I removed this relay on my car and jumpered across the socket so that my fuel pump would run without starting my car. Send me an email and I will send you a picture. I am not sure how to post a pic here but I will try. The relay is located in the fuse panel next to the battery in the trunk. The relay removed and jumper wire installed can be seen in pic. Check for blown fuse first. Most of these relays are interchangeable, so you might try swapping them to see if the relay is defective if the fuse checks good. Good luck...

It is entirely possible that the fuel hose might have blown off the fuel pump inside the tank if you hear the pump operating and have no output. One of my clamps failed when I replaced my fuel pump...buy new stainless clamps. Good luck.